Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Kyle46791

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I could use some help trying to get my OLED going.
Without the pico, it doesnt boot to ofw and makes a high pitched whining noise.
With the chip, it tries to glitch for a couple minutes then flashes red and turns off, still with that high pitched noise.
My dat0 adapter reads 0.762V in diode mode with red on dat0 or or 0.442V with the black on dat0.
The rest of the important points read around .6 to .8 V in diode mode with black on ground, except reset which is 1.4V.
I can't see any obvious shorts. I've checked resistance on all the points and it seems like it's not shorted.
If there's any info you need, pls ask. I really wanna get this going.
None of the points physically look shorted anywhere.
Is the other side of the 3.3v cap supposed to be shorted to ground?
 
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Dee87

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that's why you are not in error
you used 2.5
ah okay i didnt know that
Post automatically merged:

Thanks. I'll just go with 30 AWG to be safe. The AIO thread suggests IRFHS8342 MOSFET I looked it up on Aliexpress and I found the link above. I'll just go with it. Thanks. You're always very helpful. Appreciated.
no problem always try to help if i can
Post automatically merged:

I could use some help trying to get my OLED going.
Without the pico, it doesnt boot to ofw and makes a high pitched whining noise.
With the chip, it tries to glitch for a couple minutes then flashes red and turns off, still with that high pitched noise.
My dat0 adapter reads 0.762V in diode mode with red on dat0 or or 0.442V with the black on dat0.
The rest of the important points read around .6 to .8 V in diode mode with black on ground, except reset which is 1.4V.
I can't see any obvious shorts. I've checked resistance on all the points and it seems like it's not shorted.
If there's any info you need, pls ask. I really wanna get this going.
None of the points physically look shorted anywhere.
what the colors u get when u have the pico installed and its trying to glitch ?
did u have a red led flash after Flashing?
i had a reading on my dat0 with skynix emmc and permanent installed dat0 point around 450 in diode mode
how did u install ur dat0 ?
im not sure about the high pitch did u use a hwfly flex cable for the APU ?
when u have the pico uninstalled u did make sure that there are no cross connections of the cables ?

now when i think about the high pitch i had that on one of my donor board with a defektive emmc ( i have no clue if this is the same issue u have just pointing it out)

if i where u i would uninstall everything u installed and see if that high pitch goes away
 
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Ragna666

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i use 0.1mm emnaled wire for everything

do u have soldering experience?
use flux, and low melt solder thats what i always use on mods
the solder with resin core is not enough
that a good idea to use dead board or cheap ones before u go to an oled because oled is a bit difficult hard to get to the Dat = point
If i remember well i can buy a postfix for dat0 and i can check it with multimeter before and after i soldering the anchors.
I'm gonna pay 10dollar more instead of suffering with reflow or reball the emmc for just one dat0 point.

For the soldering experience before i do the switch i'm gonna use dead phone motherboards.
I just done a few pc motherboard and videocard soldering before with a simple 60w soldering iron.

But for this i'm gonna buy a soldering iron with adjustable temperature, an electric microscope and everything i need to solder it safely.
 
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Dee87

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If i remember well i can buy a postfix for dat0 and i can check it with multimeter before and after i soldering the anchors.
I'm gonna pay 10dollar more instead of suffering with reflow or reball the emmc for just one dat0 point.
yes u can buy them
but u need to whatchout wich ones u buy i never used them but heard alot of people having issue after a few months or after they get warm und warp.
get a 4 anchor one
i did do a reball and a reflow for the first time on my Oled and if worked perfekt didnt wanna take the risk with a unreliable connection


oh and sorry i dont use 0.1mm emnaeld wire for the connection betwenn mosfet and caps or ground and mosfet

for g from mosfet to rp2040 i do use 0.1mm
 
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aramirez0425

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Am on the same boat, i cant boot ofw as well on my an Oled running the latest firmware. Before i modded this console i flashed the 2.5 and then i flashed the 2.6 and once installed i still cant boot ofw. Everything else works fine

Also, has anyone tried to roll back to 2.5 using the toolbox to see if you regain access to ofw? Just wondering before i do it and it doesnt work.
 

Dee87

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Am on the same boat, i cant boot ofw as well on my an Oled running the latest firmware. Before i modded this console i flashed the 2.5 and then i flashed the 2.6 and once installed i still cant boot ofw. Everything else works fine

Also, has anyone tried to roll back to 2.5 using the toolbox to see if you regain access to ofw? Just wondering before i do it and it doesnt work.
that sucks :-(
u shouldnt have any issues flashing the fw 2.5 over the 2,6 as far as i know (but dont take my word for it )
do u have another rp2040 on hand that u can maybe just swap out with a 2.5 on it if there are issues with rolling back
 

Ragna666

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yes u can buy them
but u need to whatchout wich ones u buy i never used them but heard alot of people having issue after a few months or after they get warm und warp.
get a 4 anchor one
i did do a reball and a reflow for the first time on my Oled and if worked perfekt didnt wanna take the risk with a unreliable connection


oh and sorry i dont use 0.1mm emnaeld wire for the connection betwenn mosfet and caps or ground and mosfet

for g from mosfet to rp2040 i do use 0.1mm
Can u give me some pictures of it?
 

Kyle46791

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ah okay i didnt know that
Post automatically merged:


no problem always try to help if i can
Post automatically merged:


what the colors u get when u have the pico installed and its trying to glitch ?
did u have a red led flash after Flashing?
i had a reading on my dat0 with skynix emmc and permanent installed dat0 point around 450 in diode mode
how did u install ur dat0 ?
im not sure about the high pitch did u use a hwfly flex cable for the APU ?
when u have the pico uninstalled u did make sure that there are no cross connections of the cables ?

now when i think about the high pitch i had that on one of my donor board with a defektive emmc ( i have no clue if this is the same issue u have just pointing it out)

if i where u i would uninstall everything u installed and see if that high pitch goes away
I get the regular blue glitching and the occasional white emmc write every minute or so. It tries n tries, then times out and flashes a red led.
I think I found a short. The caps on the cpu have no resistance to ground. I thought maybe it was my CLK point but that's not shorted. The caps themselves where I connected the sx core ribbon cpu cable arent shorted. Also, the back half of the 3.3v cap is short to ground
 

Dee87

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Can u give me some pictures of it?
here there was a post with the 4 anchors ones earlier Klick me
Post automatically merged:

I get the regular blue glitching and the occasional white emmc write every minute or so. It tries n tries, then times out and flashes a red led.
I think I found a short. The caps on the cpu have no resistance to ground. I thought maybe it was my CLK point but that's not shorted. The caps themselves where I connected the sx core ribbon cpu cable arent shorted. Also, the back half of the 3.3v cap is short to ground
can u pin the shorted cap out ?
Marikodual Mosfet.jpg
 
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aramirez0425

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that sucks :-(
u shouldnt have any issues flashing the fw 2.5 over the 2,6 as far as i know (but dont take my word for it )
do u have another rp2040 on hand that u can maybe just swap out with a 2.5 on it if there are issues with rolling back
Its no issue really, as i do have more rp2040 and this is my personal console so it all for testing. Just looking for temporary solutions.
 
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aramirez0425

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here there was a post with the 4 anchors ones earlier
Post automatically merged:


can u pin the shorted cap out ?
View attachment 363582
i would check the caps using diode mode, red probe on ground and black probe on either side of the cap. One side of the cap will be ground and should read .000 and the other side should be reading about .010 or so
Post automatically merged:

did u have the console runing with 2.5 before u flashed 2.6?

i dont think its gonna hurt if u flash 2.5 back
I never had the console running on 2.5. i did flash the rp with 2.5 and then 2.6
 
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ShadowFox7

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Dumb question, can GND be soldered to the CPU/Ram metal frame? This way, the wire can be shorter and helps the pico to stay in place.
 

aramirez0425

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Dumb question, can GND be soldered to the CPU/Ram metal frame? This way, the wire can be shorter and helps the pico to stay in place.
yes
Post automatically merged:

have u tried backflashing the 2.5 yet
Post automatically merged:

have u tried backflashing the 2.5 yet
ok... i used the toolbox rollback and it said it flashed and to reboot. After the reboot it just gave me a blinking blue light so i soldered on the usb c port and buttons and flashed the rp with the 2.5 and unlock. From there i booted into ofw and it worked as normal as well as cfw. I then proceeded to flash rp with 2.6 and now i can boot into ofw while on 2.6
 
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Dee87

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ok... i used the toolbox rollback and it said it flashed and to reboot. After the reboot it just gave me a blinking blue light so i soldered on the usb c port and buttons and flashed the rp with the 2.5 and unlock. From there i booted into ofw and it worked as normal as well as cfw. I then proceeded to flash rp with 2.6 and now i can boot into ofw while on 2.6
noice glad to hear that :-)
 

rehius

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2.61

- no more magic for xiao/itsy, detection by shorting pins
-- for xiao2040 please short GPIO 1 & 2
-- for itsybitsy please short GPIO 2 & 3

- moved to the latest sdloader version (I know, logo sucks now)

- software update bugfixes, rollback works fine now
 

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  • fw_2.61.uf2.pdf
    240.5 KB · Views: 43
  • update.bin.pdf
    56.2 KB · Views: 41
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Dee87

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2.61

- no more magic for xiao/itsy, detection by shorting pins
-- for xiao2040 please short GPIO 1 & 2
-- for itsybitsy please short GPIO 2 & 3

- moved to the latest bootloader version (I know, logo sucks now)

- software update bugfixes, rollback works fine now
if im on 2.6 already just update.bin ?
 
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lightninjay

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2.61

- no more magic for xiao/itsy, detection by shorting pins
-- for xiao2040 please short GPIO 1 & 2
-- for itsybitsy please short GPIO 2 & 3

- moved to the latest bootloader version (I know, logo sucks now)

- software update bugfixes, rollback works fine now
So obviously the uf2 is for flashing over USB, is the update.bin loaded through the picofly toolbox you uploaded in your last firmware post? --

To answer my own question, looks like I am spot on. Loading picofly toolbox and hitting update looks for specifically named "update.bin".

Thanks for another release Rehius, you deserve a LOT of rest for all this. I just managed to get my switch booting again after I ripped some traces and had to reconnect them with 40awg magnet wire and uv-cure resin. My only issue now is that my wireless isn't working. Pretty positive it's because I accidentally brushed the two caps off to the left of the APU shield.

I soldered them back on last night, but I don't think I did a good enough job. Reattempting tonight in hopes of restoring my switch back to full functionality + Hekate.
 

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