Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Adran_Marit

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i mean everybody should know that but its better to remind them


Oh true That was u , well i mean u live and learn right , i bet everyone hase destroyed something in the name of science Xd
That's it.
Doing an rgh3 on an Xbox 360 is a cheap starter solder project. If you can connect to the c5r35 via, this switch mod looks very doable.
Oled clk is 1/4 the size of a slim 360 pll point.

Also I've seen plenty of failed rgh3 attempts, people dont have the right equiment or are impatient and mess up... short a wire they shouldn't etc etc.

Just cause a mod is cheap doesn't make it easy.
 

Gadorach

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usually that happens when you have much flux around RST
but in the very rare cases you have to add a resistor to the RST point (up to 20K)
Hey, finally had time to resolder all the points and clean everything up from flux. I had removed the USB port, but I bodged in a USB cable and bootsel button for now to reflash the chip and verify everything. Same issue as before. Video attached.



Is there any chance it's looking for a specific sector size on the SD card? Special setup of FAT32? Very specific payload.bin? I'm a bit lost after reflashing both with the individual firmware and then unlock.bin, as well as trying to reflash with just the 2.5 firmware+unlock.bin. Any thoughts? I tried 22k on RST, which just prevented the console from booting, and then 47ohms, which changed nothing compared to having no resistor. If I disconnect VCC from the RP2040, it starts up just fine though into retail HOS.
 

JackFrostSMT

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Trying three different ways of making machine.unique_id() legible hex in MicroPython all gave me the same result of DE 62, or if it's somehow backward, 2C 6E.
Safe to say the 4MB flash is of the 'wrong' starting portion.
Also, using the attached file you can get your RP-2040-Zero unique Flash ID.
Connect rp-2040-zero to the PC. Look at the COM port of the chip in the device manager.
Just drug-and-drop .uf2 to your chip and then connect to the COM port using PuTTY or KiTTY (or whatever you use). Strings with a Flash ID of your chip will appear in the console (Flash ID: XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX).
Could also use this instead of trying to build it :P
 
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LogicalMadness

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I could have sworn I saw someone post pictures of the pinout for the USB port on the PZeros, but I can't find it searching this thread. All I could find was @Warbeast asking w\o answers.

Am I missing something?
 

Girtana1

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Hey, finally had time to resolder all the points and clean everything up from flux. I had removed the USB port, but I bodged in a USB cable and bootsel button for now to reflash the chip and verify everything. Same issue as before. Video attached.



Is there any chance it's looking for a specific sector size on the SD card? Special setup of FAT32? Very specific payload.bin? I'm a bit lost after reflashing both with the individual firmware and then unlock.bin, as well as trying to reflash with just the 2.5 firmware+unlock.bin. Any thoughts? I tried 22k on RST, which just prevented the console from booting, and then 47ohms, which changed nothing compared to having no resistor. If I disconnect VCC from the RP2040, it starts up just fine though into retail HOS.

you are using the cap above the SD slot, not sure if I've seen anyone confirm this works for Pico

https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutoria...oint-for-switch-lite-modchip-installs.610654/
 

Warbeast

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I could have sworn I saw someone post pictures of the pinout for the USB port on the PZeros, but I can't find it searching this thread. All I could find was @Warbeast asking w\o answers.

Am I missing something?
You just need d+ d- vcc gnd then connect boot button wire to ground will enable it
20230323_214321.jpg
 

handsom_tomato

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I am truly grateful to those who have answered many of my questions! With my naked eye, beginner-level soldering skills, and patience, I was finally able to boot Hekate on my V2 Mariko. I was so happy that it could be started even with such rough soldering! Pikofly is amazing!
 

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Arakon

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I am truly grateful to those who have answered many of my questions! With my naked eye, beginner-level soldering skills, and patience, I was finally able to boot Hekate on my V2 Mariko. I was so happy that it could be started even with such rough soldering! Pikofly is amazing!
I'd recommend shortening the blank ends so that only the blank part is actually on the solder spot, especially on the pico. Otherwise they can snap off and also cause short circuits. Only remove as much insulation as you actually need.
 

handsom_tomato

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特にピコでは、ブランク部分だけが実際にはんだスポットにくるように、ブランクの端を短くすることをお勧めします。そうしないと、それらが折れたり、ショートしたりする可能性があります。実際に必要なだけ断熱材を取り除きます。
For now, I didn't worry about the length of the wires because I wanted to immediately backup things like NAND and boot0. I plan to adjust the length later on!
 

Gadorach

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