Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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re.lax

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What’s everyone using for pin 1 ground trigger? I was thinking of using volume - but don’t know if that’ll be a pain when actually turning down the volume.
edit: the capture button might be nice as well, anyone have any ideas of where some point for the would be?
 
Last edited by re.lax,

annson24

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Good idea. As long as you don't mind continuing to share your source, the community can handle providing anything custom (or testing).

Luckily the sigpatch thing for hekate was accepted into mainline, so once a new version is released, my sigpatch build won't be necessary.

Thanks again! [emoji1417]
Hi, do you have files for trinket for this build of hekate?
 

annson24

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It's in one of my earlier posts in this thread, I'm pretty sure. The latest hekate build is basically the same thing, since the sig patches were accepted into the mainline hekate
Ooooh, so you mean the one you built has the latest commits from CTCaer's hekate. Sorry for misunderstanding and thanks!

EDIT:
Will THIS work? It says Trinket 3V instead of Trinket M0.
 
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Huntereb

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The waiting game for the SwitchMe is intense... Anyone else sitting around for it? @evilsperm if you're there, you should make a discussion thread about the project where we can talk about it exclusively. Alongside the external edition as well.
 

smasha

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Method 2 is a cold boot method for dual boot.
If you are trying to save efuses, do not use it. autoRCM will cause problems with method 2.

If you have installed method 2 and it isn't behaving itself in autoRCM, and you NEED autorcm, disable the reset wire. Clip it or whatever. But make sure your trinket reset button is intact before doing so. Or you will have a hard time flashing uf2 files to it

If you use method 2 without the reset wire + autorcm, will there be any issues with saving fuses? Also will plugging in a charger while the switch is off boot into RCM mode like it does for method 1?
Basically I'm trying to workout if there's a method where the switch wont autoboot into RCM mode if i plug in charger, and save fuses at the same time.
 

mattytrog

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If you use method 2 without the reset wire + autorcm, will there be any issues with saving fuses? Also will plugging in a charger while the switch is off boot into RCM mode like it does for method 1?
Basically I'm trying to workout if there's a method where the switch wont autoboot into RCM mode if i plug in charger, and save fuses at the same time.

No issues saving fuses...

If you leave reset disconnected, it becomes method 1

IF you have autoRCM enabled, connecting a USB charger when switch is completely off will put it in RCM

Based on what you have said, method 3 would be your best bet to ATTEMPT to save fuses... But just ONE boot with the trinket not working (ie if you have a charger plugged in)will fry your fuses...

Its a REALLY REALLY bad idea to attempt to save fuses without autoRCM, and almost certain to fail at some point

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The waiting game for the SwitchMe is intense... Anyone else sitting around for it? @evilsperm if you're there, you should make a discussion thread about the project where we can talk about it exclusively. Alongside the external edition as well.

Well make one then!

This thread is for trinket / gemma / itsybitsy support.

A lot of issues and solutions in this thread will be applicable to any SAMD based chip.

Its been a good thread up to now... Lets keep on topic.
 

fOmey

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Has anyone considered using a feather m0 adalogger for a external solution? Inbuilt charger circuit & microsd.. seems ideal.

Rather then storing payloads in flash memory you could read directly off the microsd.
 

fOmey

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It doesn't seem practical to carry 2 SD cards..

The thing is $20+ SD not included.

Conservatively speaking, you are looking at about $60+ (SD, power supply, case, adapter/cable etc.) when it's all said and done in which case I'd much rather have the TX dongle and load payloads from there :D

Cheers!

-Mikel

I agree the price is a little steep compared to the alternatives.. Not sure where you got $60 tho, you might of been looking at the bluetooth/wifi variants?

Lipo (aprox. $10) + feather board ($20) + micro to C cable ($2?)... price is still a little high in saying that.. a TX is what about $40?

I would shrink wrap it, not even bother with a case to be honest.. Also what makes you say you need to carry 2 sdcards?
 

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