GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

Discussion in 'GBA - Hardware, Devices and Utilities' started by zazilu, Jun 10, 2012.

  1. Bahustard

    Bahustard Member

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    Washed-out colors seem to be a case where you just connect RECV to ground. Worked for a few people so far, at least.
     
  2. ivanero90

    ivanero90 Newbie

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    So i have to do this?

    [​IMG]

    Just the black wire or the white too?
     
  3. Bahustard

    Bahustard Member

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    When I did it, I only connected one wire; the black wire connecting RECV to GND. However, depending on the severity of your problem, you might want to play with the potentiometer first; turn it clockwise first, and see if it makes any immediate, visible difference. If it does not, then yeah, get to soldering.
     
  4. ivanero90

    ivanero90 Newbie

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    Thanks you i will try that and post the results soon.
     
  5. Bahustard

    Bahustard Member

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    Did some fiddling once I got home; turning down the overall brightness does help with the ghosting effect, but there's still at least some if I let things sit for a bit. May turn it down just a little further, but I think it's at least acceptable at this point.
     
  6. ivanero90

    ivanero90 Newbie

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    i just did it.
    Soldering REVC to GND made it worst so i had to do the COM-REVC to GND and now it looks perfect.

    [​IMG]

    It was sooooo hard for me to do this i was like 1h soldering and failing.
    Sould i use some hot glue to avoid any contact?

    [​IMG]

    I will finish it when i get the orange case im waiting for.
    Thanks everyone here, i have read the 36 pages before doing it and it helped a lot.
     
  7. Pagio94

    Pagio94 GBAtemp Regular

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    Can anyone please answer me? Also is there some site which has no stock issues? I found that every site is out of stock with those screens
     
  8. pelago

    pelago Member

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    I have been trying to determine the difference between all the different cables listed on http://gbaguan.taobao.com/ - which I think are the so-called Aurora cables. I don't speak a word of Chinese, but have been using Google Translate. As far as I can tell:

    • Standard cable, comes in 32-pin, 40-pin A and 40-pin B versions (you have to specify which one when ordering). Cost ¥43 (Chinese yuan): http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=17953133877
    • "Limited edition" of the standard cable. I can't tell what's different, other than it costs more and the installation pictures look a little different, e.g. solder to a different point? Also it only seems to come in 32-pin and 40-pin versions, with no mention on A or B. Maybe the 40-pin version of this cable works with both A and B screens, which is why it's a little more expensive? Cost ¥48: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=19828583555
    • Aurora Pro cable, comes in 32-pin, 40-pin A and 40-pin B versions. Over and above the standard cable, this includes a small switch which the user can flick to change between two brightness levels. The switch is accessible by removing the battery cover and inserting something small like a screwdriver, so is probably not something you would want to change very often in the middle of gameplay. There is an additional cable that you choose to solder or not (that is, the cable will work without having to do any soldering). If you do solder it, you obtain access to two different brightness levels. Either way, once assembled, there are only two brightness levels accessible, controlled by the switch. Cost ¥60: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=24351408753
    • Another version of the Pro cable with the little switch. Like with the limited edition of the standard cable, I can't tell what's different, other than again it seems to only come in 32-pin and 40-pin versions, with no mention of A or B. Cost ¥63: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=18071110721
    • Aurora Deluxe cable, comes in 32-pin, 40-pin A and 40-pin B versions. Over and above the Aurora Pro cable (the one with the switch), this includes, I think, additional circuitry to "stabilize" the power drawn by the screen. I think this is to reduce problems some people have reported using the standard cables where for example some flash carts don't work, or when playing some GB or GBC games. Cost ¥110: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=24351728191
    • "Rainbow final version of the digital cable", comes in 32-pin, 40-pin A and 40-pin B versions. Over and above the Aurora Deluxe cable, this removes the little physical switch in the battery compartment, but allows you instead to hold down Select and press L to change the brightness between 5 levels. This requires extra soldering. Cost ¥190: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39228683802
    • Another version of the "Rainbow final version of the digital cable". I can't tell what's different, other than again it seems to only come in 32-pin and 40-pin versions, with no mention of A or B. Unlike with the other variants which don't mention A or B, this cable is actually cheaper than the other one, rather than more expensive. Cost ¥180: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39230991276
    They also sell AGS-101 screens, and bundles of screens and cables, as well as some other bits and bobs, but I'm mostly interested in their cables.

    If anyone here speaks English and Chinese, maybe they can provide more information about the different cables and correct anything I've written above.

    Has anyone seen these particular cables (especially the Select+L one) for sale anywhere else, e.g. eBay?
     
  9. ivanero90

    ivanero90 Newbie

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    You will have to solder, it was my first time soldering and i did fine you just need patience.
    I bought my screen + adaptor on ebay to this guy: http://www.ebay.es/itm/181422667490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
    Ask him if he has more stock, i got it 2 weeks after paying.
     
  10. Bahustard

    Bahustard Member

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    There is no way to avoid soldering this; you are putting wires where they were clearly never meant to go and will need to be careful.
     
  11. Romain80200

    Romain80200 Member

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    Hello.
    The cable at ¥180 is for a frontlight screen. The one at ¥190 is for the backlight screen.
     
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  12. pelago

    pelago Member

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  13. wiggatron

    wiggatron Advanced Member

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    Currently nobody is producing the LCDs (as best I can tell, based on the MANY different distributors I've spoken with). Unless someone starts manufacturing these LCDs again, I wouldn't expect anyone to have them in stock in the very near future.
     
  14. Simi

    Simi Member

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    Look for cheap Gameboy Advance SP but AGS-101 version. I spent more than a month looking for AGS-101 for myself on polish market.

     
  15. Bahustard

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    I scavenged mine out of an AGS-101 that wouldn't stay on. Sure, I could have cleaned the power switch, but why solve one problem when you can make fifteen more?

    Still not quite sure what's up with the ghosting, but I'm also not sure if that's a thing I can fix.
     
  16. Pagio94

    Pagio94 GBAtemp Regular

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  17. pelago

    pelago Member

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    I think that http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39228683802 is the best cable for me. Does anyone have any tips on how to order from taobao within the UK? I gather most sellers only speak Chinese and don't ship overseas, so I need an "agent". Can anyone recommend a UK agent, especially one that will do small orders? I've seen some agents have a minimum order of £200.
     
  18. MastahXd

    MastahXd Member

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    Should be more like 10 min tops, anyway it's quite a good job you made because it works ;-P. Next time I recommend you use some soldering flux (the cheaper the better if not a proffesional). While soldering put some flux on your soldering points, add some tin with lead in it (SnPb) and add some tin on a wire too. Then use some pliers (needlenose would best) to hold it where you want it and solder. You'll know you used enough flux if the tin left on the solder only connects wire and the pod with a nice round ball and the rest of the tin stays on the iron. Also you might like to use thinner wires next time. You can get them from a monitor cable or something like that. There is also no need to insulate the solders if they are nice and flat.
    Good luck
     
  19. MastahXd

    MastahXd Member

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    I bought exactly from this supplier, quality of the screen is about 8/10. Works just fine, image lokks really nice. Here is the screen with ribbon (screens can be distinguished by a ribbon cable, I think it's type A, but you need to confirm that): 20140710_233611.jpg
     
  20. pelago

    pelago Member

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    I gather the difference between the screen types is visible in the cable. But I'm confused about the names "AB" and "B". Where do those names come from? Are they printed on the screen at all? Why "AB" and "B" instead of "A" and "B"?

    My issue is that I think I have an "AB" AGS-101 screen, judging by the cable, but I want the http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39228683802 cable, which says it comes in "A" and "B" variants. Do I want the "A" variant cable to match my "AB" AGS-101 screen?
     
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