This is a fairly simple guide that show the step-by-step process of installing a new slider rail onto your console. You may need to do this if the original one became defective from wear over time, or wear from using a paper-clip for RCM-based exploits.
Keep in mind, this guide is for the console itself, and not the joycon, this is a tutorial to fix physical connection issues with the joycon. You can buy a replacement rail like this on Ebay, or a found one on Amazon Prime for about $13 USD: https://amzn.to/2KglAeH So far, this rail has worked great for me, and I would recommend it.
Once you put your Switch back together you can turn it back on, and your right rail should work good as new, after a few seconds. I'm not quite sure why this is, but the rail won't work right away on your first boot with it, but afterwards, there is no difference from the original.
I hope this guide was helpful, ask questions in the reply sections (:
Keep in mind, this guide is for the console itself, and not the joycon, this is a tutorial to fix physical connection issues with the joycon. You can buy a replacement rail like this on Ebay, or a found one on Amazon Prime for about $13 USD: https://amzn.to/2KglAeH So far, this rail has worked great for me, and I would recommend it.
Make sure that your Nintendo Switch is entirely powered off, and any SD cards and/or game cards are removed before you start this process.
I would recommend printing out a diagram to organized the many small screws from this process, you can find the printable diagram that I used here: https://goo.gl/KuUH6M
Now, with a tri wing screwdriver, you can unscrew the 4 screws on the back of the console. If you don't have a tri wing screwdriver, you can get one in the set that I use here: https://amzn.to/2LTPZnY
Now with a small Philips screwdriver, you can remove screws from the bottom, top and sides of the switch, shown in these pictures:
(You are going to need to unscrew the middle school on both sides of the switch)
(You are going to need to unscrew the middle school on both sides of the switch)
Now, open up the kickstand and find unscrew that hidden little guy.
Now, leave you kickstand open, and open you cartage slot, and you can gently pull the back of the switch off.
Now you get to unscrew more! Once again, you are still using a Philips screwdriver and unscrewing the circled screws below:
You now need to unhook the SD card reader to take the metal plate out of the switch, so gently pop it off with a flathead screwdriver.
Now, take the metal plate out of the switch, you might need to pull a little bit harder than normal, because there is some purple goop on the Tegra processor that may still be a little sticky. Once you do this, you will be greeted with this, possibly overwhelming display:
You are going to want to disconnect the battery with a flathead screwdriver, just in case, you don't want to get shocked 
On the rail you plan to replace, unscrew these screw with a Phillips screwdriver:
Use tweezers to remove the ribbon cable connected to the rail, then you can remove the original rail, and put the replacement in it's place, and re-connect the new ribbon cable in it's place. Then, you want to move the ribbon cable out of the way of the screw hole, and tuck it in.
You can now reconnect the battery, by just pushing it down where it was.
Reconnect the SD card reader, by pushing the connector back into it's socket.
Screw the SD Card reader back in, after you reconnect it, then you can start screwing the backplate back onto the switch, using memory, or you printable diagram, or even the pictures in previous steps.
Just make sure you get all the addition screws back into their correct place, just like the second part of the previous step.
Once you put your Switch back together you can turn it back on, and your right rail should work good as new, after a few seconds. I'm not quite sure why this is, but the rail won't work right away on your first boot with it, but afterwards, there is no difference from the original.
I hope this guide was helpful, ask questions in the reply sections (:
Last edited by Zebybite,
