You can use any connector you want, but whatever you do don't connect the hard mod cable directly to a USB port. The voltage is too high and it will burn out the NAND chip.
Ok so solder the wires from the PCB to the USB port, then solder the male end of the USB port to the microSD card adapter right? Or is that exactly what you meant by directly to the USB port lol?
If you don't want a permanent hardmod, you can have the wires directly to the SD adapter. (straight from the mainboard)
If you want it to be permanent then use whatever you have.
But a USB port will be really big that is why the use of microUSB (or miniUSB which I use)
Check this to see what I've done on my N3DSXL:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutoria...s-xl-n3ds-n3ds-xl.414498/page-67#post-6674481
The issue Mashers was talking about is you must never connect a USB source to the port (from USB charger or PC) because it will put 5V to the NAND, frying it.
If it's your console, no problem but if anyone grabs it and doesn't know, there might be a problem.
If you want it to be permanent then use whatever you have.
But a USB port will be really big that is why the use of microUSB (or miniUSB which I use)
Check this to see what I've done on my N3DSXL:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutoria...s-xl-n3ds-n3ds-xl.414498/page-67#post-6674481
The issue Mashers was talking about is you must never connect a USB source to the port (from USB charger or PC) because it will put 5V to the NAND, frying it.
If it's your console, no problem but if anyone grabs it and doesn't know, there might be a problem.
Yes that's correct. NAND chip goes to USB female, USB male goes to microSD adapter, microSD adapter goes in SD card reader, SD card reader connects to computer USB port.
And yes, when I said about not connecting it directly I meant don't do NAND chip to USB female and then USB male directly to computer USB port.
I just dont know where to put the wires for a temporary hardmod. Like, when I close it I mean, to turn it on. I figure if I have to file a hole I might as well make it worth my time and add a port.
Connect the wires to the board and then feed them through the hole of the stylus (On the back cover).
Connect the L and R buttons ribbons and close the back cover.
Test the console (without having the wires connected to anything to see if it is OK.)
Solder your frankenSD and test the console again (If everything is OK, the console will boot normally). If it errors with only the SD, you have to try with another SD adapter or check the solder in the SD.
I found it better to NOT having the wires too long.
Then test your SD card reader to see if you get the boot room.
I know right i fried my psp that i just bought with too high voltage... was last year. Opened it to fix fuse and broke motherboard in half somehow during disassembly...
Too high voltage sucks xD never even got to see my psp boot ever.
Be careful hardmodding i broke my 3ds doing that. I am good at opening and fixing PCs and laptops but when it comes to electronics like ds 3ds psp i am a failure.
Too high voltage sucks xD never even got to see my psp boot ever.
Be careful hardmodding i broke my 3ds doing that. I am good at opening and fixing PCs and laptops but when it comes to electronics like ds 3ds psp i am a failure.
Last edited by ironmaster49,
How do I get the wires from the back of the PCB to the stylus holder if it's on the back cover. Every picture I'm looking at of the points to solder to for the 2DS are on the front (back?) of the PCB... I have to flip it to solder to it. Is this correct or am I missing something?
^^^^ this is on the back (front? whatever) side of the PCB
EDIT: shit nevermind, I'm looking at it now and I see the little hole ._.
Last edited by stzy,
How do I get the wires from the back of the PCB to the stylus holder if it's on the back cover. Every picture I'm looking at of the points to solder to for the 2DS are on the front (back?) of the PCB... I have to flip it to solder to it. Is this correct or am I missing something?
^^^^ this is on the back (front? whatever) side of the PCB
EDIT: shit nevermind, I'm looking at it now and I see the little hole ._.
Oh, you're talking about a 2DS (damn I'm going blind).
The pinouts are on the other side of the board. You have to remove it completly, right above the "SLEEP" slider.
You can follow this guide.
If connecting the battery with the back plate removed, be ABSOLUTLY sure that you put it with the right + and - position or you'll fry the board).
https://pt.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+2DS+Motherboard+Replacement/35842
Last edited by cravas,
Thats the guide I was following actually and I just have to say, if anyone was thinking about following it, DO NOT. It's completely trash: he skips over some parts, wrong position of screws, has things on backwards in the photo so you don't know what's really going on. At one point he tries to tell you the camera lenses on the back are screws and they need to be unscrewed :/
Anyway I stripped one of the screws pretty badly so I think that's that for that. Gonna have to figure out a way to fix that.
Sorry to hear about the screw. But for it to happen maybe you have the wrong driver for it.
I use a Philips #00 but I know it's #000. What I do is press a bit from the top of the driver to give some downforce to the screw and rotate it.
But, yeah, it's really easy to damage them.
Good luck with it.
There is no harm in trying it, but it probably won't work. Only specific SD/MMC chipsets work with the 3DS NAND, which is why there are just a few recommended ones which are known to work.
Similar threads
- No one is chatting at the moment.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
@
Psionic Roshambo:
32GBs is the baseline for 4K video editing these days and lots of recommendations for 64GBs but for games 16,GBs is honestly plenty for a long time. -
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
@
Psionic Roshambo:
Some sort of police thing going on near me lol "Get out of the car with your hands up and walk backwards towards us" over a loud speaker thing
-
-
like a 250 dollar kit back when DDR4 was Intel only
