Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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Last edited by mattytrog,

mattytrog

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If i press power while in off state with a usb-c connected it boots to horizon and it's not injecting my payload. Is that normal behaviour? Because that will burn my fuse right?
If you have 1 strap connected, normal boot (burning fuses)

Both straps, console off... Connect to USB... Console should go to RCM.

Console will go to RCM every start or USB plug in or whatever if both straps are connected. In fact, it is impossible to boot into OFW unless you press the RESET button on chip as the 3v line that also powers up the emmc, is also powering SWITCHBOOT. Result - Fuses saved.
 

PSxed

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Hmm i have all three straps connected so why can i boot it to horizon?

guess im gonna have to grab my multimeter..
 
Last edited by PSxed,

mattytrog

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Hmm i have all three straps connected so why can i boot it to horizon?

guess im gonna have to grab my multimeter..
Yep. If you have all straps, SWITCHBOOT = both (joycon and vol) and you STILL boot to Horizon, you have a problem sir
 
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taxco

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Yep. If you have all straps, SWITCHBOOT = both (joycon and vol) and you STILL boot to Horizon, you have a problem sir
Matty,

If you remeber few months ago i had issue of 2 switches not charging in total off state.
They do charge in sleep and on state.

Now again switches has not been used for month, battery drained and i had to do external charge of batteries.

I want to make external charge mod to the switch.

Option 1:
Micro usb port in the cartige slot connected to wires one - and one + to baterry with diode.
This way i dont have to dismentle the switch if battery is drained.

Option 2:
I need a 3v point on the switch comming from usb c port somewere but cant find it, i have found 5v but is to much.

I woul preffer option 2 with a 3v can you help me on this
 

mattytrog

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Matty,

If you remeber few months ago i had issue of 2 switches not charging in total off state.
They do charge in sleep and on state.

Now again switches has not been used for month, battery drained and i had to do external charge of batteries.

I want to make external charge mod to the switch.

Option 1:
Micro usb port in the cartige slot connected to wires one - and one + to baterry with diode.
This way i dont have to dismentle the switch if battery is drained.

Option 2:
I need a 3v point on the switch comming from usb c port somewere but cant find it, i have found 5v but is to much.

I woul preffer option 2 with a 3v can you help me on this
I think that is a bad idea.

I would fit modchips using latest methods and all straps including the USB one.

If you do, it is impossible to get stuck in RCM.

Power on & off will be respected (use autohosoff=1 in Hekate, in SXOS, it works automatically).

This will allow your consoles to "charge" in RCM mode and the moment you unplug or disconnect, payload launches, either booting up the console to Horizon, or booting up to complete power-off procedure.

This is the best solution.

You can cause damage to batteries charging externally. Not to mention potential feedback of too-high voltage into BQ24193, which will cook it.

Don`t do this sir! It will not end well.
 

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Matty can you watch this video:
https://streamable.com/gpjn0

First part is booting from off state and showing that it is auto injecting the payload (atmosphere). Second part is off state, inserting usb-c and turning it on and boots to horizon.

 

taxco

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I think that is a bad idea.

I would fit modchips using latest methods and all straps including the USB one.

If you do, it is impossible to get stuck in RCM.

Power on & off will be respected (use autohosoff=1 in Hekate, in SXOS, it works automatically).

This will allow your consoles to "charge" in RCM mode and the moment you unplug or disconnect, payload launches, either booting up the console to Horizon, or booting up to complete power-off procedure.

This is the best solution.

You can cause damage to batteries charging externally. Not to mention potential feedback of too-high voltage into BQ24193, which will cook it.

Don`t do this sir! It will not end well.

I dont use rcm, even with multimeter when in off state and usb pluged in i shows no charge being deliverd.

And switch will do nothing if battery is darayed , soo bellow 3v.

I only use the external to charge the battery to 3v and then normal usb c to charge it but.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Matty can you watch this video:
https://streamable.com/gpjn0

First part is booting from off state and showing that it is auto injecting the payload (atmosphere). Second part is off state, inserting usb-c and turning it on and boots to horizon.

I think this is normal, i olso cant boot cfw when have usb connected. It will boot to ofw.
 

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Matty can you watch this video:
https://streamable.com/gpjn0

First part is booting from off state and showing that it is auto injecting the payload (atmosphere). Second part is off state, inserting usb-c and turning it on and boots to horizon.

Matty can you watch this video:
https://streamable.com/gpjn0

First part is booting from off state and showing that it is auto injecting the payload (atmosphere). Second part is off state, inserting usb-c and turning it on and boots to horizon.



That shouldn`t happen. Show me pictures of your:

PWR point (or tell me)
GND point
Vol+ strap
Joycon strap

For whatever reason, one of your straps isn`t triggering when plugged in.

Please show me pictures.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I dont use rcm, even with multimeter when in off state and usb pluged in i shows no charge being deliverd.

And switch will do nothing if battery is darayed , soo bellow 3v.

I only use the external to charge the battery to 3v and then normal usb c to charge it but.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


I think this is normal, i olso cant boot cfw when have usb connected. It will boot to ofw.
OK... Will investigate on my bench unit this evening.
 

taxco

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That shouldn`t happen. Show me pictures of your:

PWR point (or tell me)
GND point
Vol+ strap
Joycon strap

For whatever reason, one of your straps isn`t triggering when plugged in.

Please show me pictures.
I have this same issue.
But i have joycon strap and not others like usb strap.
No rcm.

When i plugin usb it will boot to ofw.
Wothout usb i can boot to cfw.

Is this normal?
 

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I’m in bed now so i can take photos tomorrow. I was thinking it could be the 3v point i’m using. That’s the only one i took an alternative point for (this one:
upload_2019-2-5_1-0-30.jpeg
)

Eveything else is according to your diagram.
 

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I’m in bed now so i can take photos tomorrow. I was thinking it could be the 3v point i’m using. That’s the only one i took an alternative point for (this one: View attachment 157094)

Eveything else is according to your diagram.
I have been trying for an hour to replicate the issue. I just can`t. I`ve disabled straps, disconnected straps, reconnected straps. I just cannot replicate it.

It HAS to be the nand point. The trinket / emmc current draw must be causing this. But then I think "Why?" They are on the same trace.

The answer has to be in voltage drop by connecting to the emmc point. Has to be.

I ALWAYS ALWAYS connect to pin 6 of M92T36. It can supply the juice and it is nice and smooth coming straight from that capacitor.

The other thing it could be is a poor GND connection. The best and easiest GND connection is the one coming from the battery connector. Easy to solder to and a good connection. I`ve seen more gremlins from people trying to solder to the groundplane with a cold iron. Just doesn`t stick.
 

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Very strange. All is working here. At least with the dock.

Downgraded to 0.9.3 and same behavior of allowing directly connected devices, but no hub connected devices. I haven’t opened it up yet to check the connections. Maybe over the weekend.

Very bizarre. Maybe the USB-C port has been damaged.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have been trying for an hour to replicate the issue. I just can`t. I`ve disabled straps, disconnected straps, reconnected straps. I just cannot replicate it.

It HAS to be the nand point. The trinket / emmc current draw must be causing this. But then I think "Why?" They are on the same trace.

The answer has to be in voltage drop by connecting to the emmc point. Has to be.

I ALWAYS ALWAYS connect to pin 6 of M92T36. It can supply the juice and it is nice and smooth coming straight from that capacitor.

The other thing it could be is a poor GND connection. The best and easiest GND connection is the one coming from the battery connector. Easy to solder to and a good connection. I`ve seen more gremlins from people trying to solder to the groundplane with a cold iron. Just doesn`t stick.

I had a spare 15m this morning. The gnd is fine according to my multimeter and connected to the left point of the usb-c connector (according to your diagram). Gonna switch the 3v point from the nand point to the capacitor of the m92t36 after i get home from work.
 

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I just finished my installation, but something has gone wrong... I plug the switch to flash the RCMX86 but it starts connecting and disconnecting. Eventually, it stays on enough to copy the first file, but I think without success. Also, I don´t get any image on the screen. The first time I switched it on, the SWITCH logo showed up, but only for a second to disappear. After that, I managed to get something on the screen, but now I can´t turn it on.

Is there anything I can try?

Thank you.
 

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@mattytrog

I did some discoveries last hour. The 3v resistor next to the m92t36 was missing and it was bridged with the resistor on top of it. I have no idea for how long this has been but it could be a couple of months. I removed the bridge between both and am now left with the 3v pad and a ground pad. The system is still working. How much impact does this missing resistor have?
 

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@mattytrog

I did some discoveries last hour. The 3v resistor next to the m92t36 was missing and it was bridged with the resistor on top of it. I have no idea for how long this has been but it could be a couple of months. I removed the bridge between both and am now left with the 3v pad and a ground pad. The system is still working. How much impact does this missing resistor have?

Ah guessed im fucked on the docking part since that doesnt work anymore xD
 

mattytrog

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I just finished my installation, but something has gone wrong... I plug the switch to flash the RCMX86 but it starts connecting and disconnecting. Eventually, it stays on enough to copy the first file, but I think without success. Also, I don´t get any image on the screen. The first time I switched it on, the SWITCH logo showed up, but only for a second to disappear. After that, I managed to get something on the screen, but now I can´t turn it on.

Is there anything I can try?

Thank you.
It is working normally. It is going into RCM as designed. Do this:

Hold power for 12 seconds...

Hold down RESET on modchip, then press power. Release RESET.

Console should boot.

Once booted, install your UF2.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Ah guessed im fucked on the docking part since that doesnt work anymore xD

It will affect docking. Which component have you lost? Any chance of a pic?
 

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It is working normally. It is going into RCM as designed. Do this:

Hold power for 12 seconds...

Hold down RESET on modchip, then press power. Release RESET.

Console should boot.

Once booted, install your UF2.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



It will affect docking. Which component have you lost? Any chance of a pic?

Thanks. After writing the post I desoldered the chip and plugged the switch to the computer to check what was happening.
It enters in RCM mode every time I switch it on, even after pressing for 12 seconds the power button, that supposedly disables this.

Is that the normal behaviour even without the chip?. Maybe a bad solder on the joycon strap?

Today is too late and tomorrow I will try what you told me.
 

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