Working on consolidating information and images into one thread where they can't get lost in the mass of pages here
I got mine from AliE a couple of months ago when this thread started to get serious, that'll be your best bet.
They took maybe two weeks to arrive.
Post automatically merged:
Agreed! That would of been hilarious
I'm having a hard time getting HOS working on a kiosk unit. Not sure if I'm an idiot with the custom kiosk atmosphere or if it's an issue with the pi firmware.
- Flashed 2.5+unlock
- 47ohm resistors on dat0, cmd, clk
- glitched quickly.
when launching fusee.bin from hekate I get these errors
From hekate launch I get this
If anyone has a known working sd config that should work on a kiosk unit please zip it up and dm it over if possible. There's a good chance that I'm just goofing up on the software end.
- Flashed 2.5+unlock
- 47ohm resistors on dat0, cmd, clk
- glitched quickly.
when launching fusee.bin from hekate I get these errors
From hekate launch I get this
If anyone has a known working sd config that should work on a kiosk unit please zip it up and dm it over if possible. There's a good chance that I'm just goofing up on the software end.
you have not unlocked the firmware, use unlock.uf2 or toolbox hekate payload + unlock.bin
You will need to hook wires up to VB, GND, U+ and U-. Make sure that the 5v only goes to VB on PGA2040, if it ends up elsewhere it will result in a bad time. A USB breakout board is a convenient way of getting at the wires in your USB cable
This has been answered many times. Yes, you can use flex cables for Erista, Mariko and Oled, but you will still need to solder other points... check the resume post that's been made, all the info is gathered there
What is the general consensus on DAT0 adapters? Is a friction connection durable enough, or is reflowing a must?
Hi sorry for the noob question is this pi ok for this project or is it a different one and where is the best place to get the flex cable in UK. I've looked on Ali and there seems to be a few different ones
https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico?variant=41925332533443
https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico?variant=41925332533443
Best would be to reball the eMMC with leaded solder and use a wire for DAT0 between the board via and the eMMC chip or the fancy HWFLY sandwitch green PCB (needs double reball).
Based on sthetix's comments, the reflow with different solder type (low melt or other) seem not to hold for long time due to solder cracking under high heat (dock use, hot environment, etc) and friction method should work ok.
My 2 cents are: if you can, reball and forget about it.
Search Waveshare RP2040-Zero on AliE, That'll direct you to what you need
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is the toshiba fix on 2.5? can't get any toshiba switch to boot, i've tested on several switches with toshiba, when i swap out to a samsung or hynix, it boots pretty fast consistently
edit-- written toshiba contents to samsung, and it works, infinite glitch on toshiba
also vid for mariko/erista using sx for cpu1
excuse my fingers lol, i painted the underside of my car and did some car work before going on my bench to install picofly XD
Last edited by leerz,
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Sonic Angel Knight:
Or, I also heard that if you use flash memory, it can act as more "RAM" at least windows tell me when I stick a flash drive into it. -
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K3Nv2:
I can think of the design teams process another joystick and no audio or a joystick and mono audio -
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