I suggest you stop, take it to someone fixing electronics around you and get them to do it. Both Dinoscene and I mentioned multiple methods/things required so if you are not going to read that I doubt you have the patience for electronics fixing.Oky i will try... But use what to make it up???
That is impressive.
Anyway they don't look like too impedance matched traces* and it does not look like that messed the lower layers up (or at least I can't see anything), so you could probably do jumper wires across them. I would also clean up the trace in the middle one as it looks like it might short something out.
*all those traces around there that do wiggly lines for no particular reason tend to do it either to avoid something noisy on the other side of the board, or to have the same length of trace so all the signals get there at the same time (rather than the minimal resistance you might have encountered in other aspects of board design.
Bonus for you here is the copper being exposed saves you a job of having to scrape off the mask which is usually what troubles the new to it types. If you somehow need more a simple scalpel blade to scrape or fine type stone to abrade tending to be the choices.
Repairing traces has a variety of schools of thought here. If those traces are loose I would glue them down first of all but some will cut back further. You don't have the luxury of pads or vias really for this so it will be in line. Big secret is whatever wire you use (enamelled or kynar being your main two, enamelled you can pull out of an old set of headphones and treat yourself**, kynar you will get to order in at some expense) cut it longer so you can still manipulate it, attach those in the middle and then chop the excess off.
I would probably stagger it a bit more rather than have three in a line potentially shorting each other out or desoldering when you put the next door one on but you should already have that by default.
Practice on something else first as well.
**enamel on the wires (why it often has such bright and shiny colours no normal metal has) needs to be removed. You can burn it off, scrape it off with fine sandpaper or leave it in a molten ball of solder for a while (throw the solder away afterwards) to remove it and get some nice conductive material.
When you say CPU do you actually mean the main processor or just the chip that is broken (possibly plus the resistor/ferrite that might also have been broken in the earlier one)?Can I replace this broken CPU with this one in the picture ?
When you say CPU do you actually mean the main processor or just the chip that is broken (possibly plus the resistor/ferrite that might also have been broken in the earlier one)?
Replacing the CPU on a 360 can be done but you will also have to replace the NAND (or possibly copy it across, expect to have to do the chip though). It will also involve redoing a BGA which is a nightmare even if you know what you are doing, and will warrant some serious gear (see IR soldering stations and BGA rework devices as you are not going to be able to do that one with a simple hot air station)
To that end if you want to fix the broken chip on the earlier device (I assume it is a nice modded one or something) step one is check the numbers on both the broken one and the replacement one. In this case if they match (just the main chip number -- don't have to be the same batch/datecode/serial) then should be easy enough. If they don't match then you get to look at datasheets for the chip (if you can find them) and figure out if it is a suitable replacement -- sometimes chip makers will make a new version to fix a bug/add some features (higher temperature, better voltage range, higher frequencies supported...) but still be compatible with older stuff.
Rotating the picture of the two 360s above around it looks like they are the same motherboard (I don't know them all well enough by sight but most of them change quite a bit between types, the chip down the bottom that is a different size was seemingly made to allow that by having multiple pads) so should be able to cannibalise if you want to roll that way.
Getting the chip off the donor board is a skill, though not a drastic one. I would personally like a hot air station for this sort of thing but you can do it with a soldering iron. Nice bit of flux and some solder wick/braid should get you most places here either way.
While again I would go in for the hot air station approach then soldering it back on should also be doable with a simple soldering iron - see drag soldering.
Practice on something else first (if you are on a thread like this I am assuming you have some dead electronics around somewhere or can find some) or just take it someone that can do this sort of thing (a lot of laptop fixing people will have such abilities these days).
Your RGH machine might also be able to be fixed if it does not start (by which I presume you mean the RGH chip does not work to get you into the hacked dashboard/kernel). Sometimes it can be as simple as redoing a wire or putting a wire in a better location (the noisy thing on the back of the board I mentioned in another reply here -- this RGH lark is one of the better examples we have to point at of such things in general).
After buy it 3 to 5days only
I was try to open that fan holder put this bad happend for motherboard...View attachment 204246 View attachment 204246 View attachment 204246 View attachment 204246
please someone help me
is this fixable ?
rgh xbox 360