Recommendation: Use a chisel tip for your soldering iron. The conical ones are really no good because you have to use higher temps with them making it more likely to rip pads off
I have chisel, conical, knife & radial. I just love the all around uses of conical (like tacking the usb pins), I use max heat and give a slight tap. I always felt like the chisel tip had more surface area and thus more heat, so I tend to use that tip for bigger case codes.
serious question. For removal of the micro usb port. I have a heat gun that says it can get up to about 1000 degrees F. It's pretty big though and I mainly use it for stuff on my car. Is it safe to use this on the trinket m0 board? I was planning on covering the board with foil (and after seeing your video, a quarter). I'm not sure if the wider opening would be too imprecise.
The other plan was to use my soldering iron and wick and get each little pad off one at a time.
Plan C is to rip the damn thing off.
Gun is Wagner HT-1000 on amazon
I was using a Dewalt d26960k with an attachment that is dime size. what you have would work, but you wouldn't want to center the gun on the USB port, just enough so that you can visualize the air hitting the 5 pins and flowing outward. Really you should be grabbing a scrap circuit board first to understand how the heat gun will work. I wouldn't recommend using tin foil, you have a chance of components lifting off after using a heat gun, best to just throw the quarter on like I did.
dont wick the pads, use my method instead - hit all areas with leaded solder to increase surface area and lower melting temperatures.
dont rip it off
Serious answer:
Plan D - tiny soldering guy
I really need to ask you to act like a man and be mature. I'm not down for your toxic attitude and id prefer you to be upfront with your beef. High school was a very long time ago for me, and at least in my experience, NONE of the guys acted like you have been acting. So either tell me what your problem is with me, or make like a tree.
Do you have a decent set of sidecutters? If you don't care about recovering the microUSB port (and you can get new ones for pennies) and have a suitable normal iron then you can cut away the relevant parts of the shell with the sidecutters and remove the rest with a wick or indeed the iron itself if you are good.
Re: temp settings on hot air stations.
I tend to find they are not worth the effort to set too precisely. Or if you prefer then get a hairdryer. Turn it on (hot mode naturally). Hold your hand reasonably far away, leave it there for a bit. Now repeat closer to it and watch you yank your hand away. If your drier has multiple power settings repeat experiment with those. Same deal applies here, just with a lot more heat.
Obviously you need to play each scenario as it comes (too much heat and it is bad, too little and you end up either not doing anything or cooking everything else around before you heat up the part you want. If you know you are melting nasty lead free stuff then some more heat will be needed than an equivalent scenario with glorious full fat leaded solder.
hes right, sidecutters work great! I use them for laptop DC jacks sometimes
So this acts just like the SX Pro dongle but built in? So you can go into the SX pro menu to switch between CFW, OFW, and the other options, correct? Also last question, SX Pro can load external payloads, can you do that with this aswell?
It acts as any dongle you want it to act as, if you tap the reset switch twice you can change the payload via USB-C and a computer.
Still, the image quality was more then decent-enough..
Out of interest, whats that copper-coloured wire-thing you use to help remove the old board solder; i'm guessing that's it's primary job anyhow..
The issue is having both eyes on a microscope, one hand holding a soldering iron, one hand holding a phone. no mount is going to get in my 2-3 inch clearance between the project and the microscope, and even if it did I would then have a phone in my way.
Solder wick, yup!