Switch stuck at nintendo switch logo

[stetofix]

The both caps lead direct to the new soldered wifi ic.

I guess there is a bit rework necessary or a reballing and resoldering of the wifi ic

 

[rip-it-up]

if you think that the hanging is due to a bad wifi ic, then powering the switch without one installed will go past the switch logo.
(might take a few seconds longer)

 

[hoyohoo]

The both caps lead direct to the new soldered wifi ic.

I guess there is a bit rework necessary or a reballing and resoldering of the wifi ic

I do not know if I can do this... I will remove the solder mask again and then I am done for.. I do not want to order yet another one.

Or how can I do it without damaging the solder mask?

if you think that the hanging is due to a bad wifi ic, then powering the switch without one installed will go past the switch logo.
(might take a few seconds longer)

Are you 100% sure that it works this way? I would like to try this then.

 

[rip-it-up]

I do not know if I can do this... I will remove the solder mask again and then I am done for.. I do not want to order yet another one.

Or how can I do it without damaging the solder mask?

Are you 100% sure that it works this way? I would like to try this then.

yes a switch will boot without it installed,

also worth noting i've never had success buying used wifi chips off aliexpress., either bluetooth or wifi never works. but always have success when i pull them myself.

as for pulling the solder mask off, when cleaning the chip lower your temp, and use leaded solder first

 

[hoyohoo]

I already am using leaded solder. My mistake was using solder wick I guess. I can just run my iron across to reduce the solder on the pads and then just reball on top of these little bits of solder. This way, I should be able to reball without the mask suffering.

And I did not buy the wifi chip off of aliexpress but a local supplier of new parts, with which I never had issues before.

After my exams I will try my best to get this switch working again

 

[rip-it-up]

I already am using leaded solder. My mistake was using solder wick I guess. I can just run my iron across to reduce the solder on the pads and then just reball on top of these little bits of solder. This way, I should be able to reball without the mask suffering.

And I did not buy the wifi chip off of aliexpress but a local supplier of new parts, with which I never had issues before.

After my exams I will try my best to get this switch working again

new chips dont work without being programmed,

 

[hoyohoo]

This was specifically sold as a replacement chip, they never mentioned that it need to be programmed...

Can I program something like this at home?

 

[rip-it-up]

This was specifically sold as a replacement chip, they never mentioned that it need to be programmed...

Can I program something like this at home?

I don't think so. Much quicker to pull from a donor board.

 

[hoyohoo]

Yeah, I dont have any. I only have working switches here and I dont want to risk damaging the other wifi ics.

Like I said, I will just remove the one I newly installed and try to start the console. If this works, I can eventually get a broken switch or so to fix the wifi. If not, I will install the hwfly and look into fixing the emmc.

 

[Dukenukemx]

I would check this caps:

View attachment 459787

Came across your post after searching for anyone stuck at the Switch logo. Looked at the location you mentioned and saw missing caps but the solder was left there. Trying to fix a Switch that I abandoned over a year ago because I put a mod chip in it and then like 10 minutes later the thing wouldn't boot and gave an error. Thought the NAND was corrupt and kept trying to fix that, but then one day the Switch stopped charging and gave up after I replaced the M92. Came back a year later and found the new M92 was shorting one pin to ground. Put a new M92 in and now the Switch charges, but doesn't boot. Followed and NAND rebuild guide again and was stuck at the Switch Logo, where as before it was the Nintendo logo. How important were those caps? I think someone repaired this Switch before me but why would they remove the caps?

 

[stetofix]

Without the both caps the SoC will not communicate with the WiFi chip and so will stuck at the Switch logo.
It is easy to kill this caps while try to remove the shield for the SoC.

 

[Dukenukemx]

Without the both caps the SoC will not communicate with the WiFi chip and so will stuck at the Switch logo.
It is easy to kill this caps while try to remove the shield for the SoC.

I put new caps and it's still stuck at the Switch logo. It boots into Hekate just fine. Is there anyway to figure out what's wrong? I did try Level 2 restore, but I haven't tried Level 3. You think Level 3 could fix it?

 

[jkyoho]

I put new caps and it's still stuck at the Switch logo. It boots into Hekate just fine. Is there anyway to figure out what's wrong? I did try Level 2 restore, but I haven't tried Level 3. You think Level 3 could fix it?

show your new caps orientation after you put on

 

[Dukenukemx]

show your new caps orientation after you put on

Sorry for late replay but I got a photo of the caps I put in. I tried to boot the Switch into LineageOS to see if the wifi chip was bad and it was stuck looking for bluetooth devices. I heard if the wifi chip is bad that it could prevent the Switch from booting, but removing it would let it boot. Now the touch screen doesn't work except the top right side. I removed the mod chip to see if it'll boot normal, and still stuck at Switch logo. Here's a photo of the wifi chip itself. Grey pads are a bad connection?

 

[LuigiXL]

Sorry for the bump but I have an unpatched v1 that hangs at NSW logo 9/10 and I’m pretty certain it is the wifi chip. Is there any recommendation on how to “pull” or disable it permanently so I can boot and not use wifi? I have not tried creating an emunand but could do before I pull it but I don’t mind going nuclear.

 

[Dukenukemx]

Took me a while but I was able to replace the WiFi chip. The display stopped working because the LCD connector was broken, because one of the pins was shorting to ground? I don't know why it was because once I removed the LCD connector it wasn't shorted on the connector or the board. The digitizer works again because the connector to the screen broke. I guess I removed the circuit board one too many times from the Switch's housing? I was able to get it to boot into LineageOS, and it works. Even the Wifi works, but I can't tell if the Blue-tooth works. The WiFi chips is from Amazon and I heard stories where if it doesn't have the Nintendo firmware that only the WiFi works but not the Blue-tooth.

Still stuck at Switch logo when trying normal boot. I guess that means the NAND is messed up? I wonder if the mod chip did something to mess this up? I might try a level 3 unbrick but I was wondering if I could just try to boot off the emuMMC? I never set one up. I still have the keys for the Switch, but is there a emuMMC that I can download and see if the Switch boots off that?