Tutorial  Updated

ANOTHER Magnetic Reed Switch RCM Installation

[TUTORIAL] [MOD] RCM mode with just a magnet (maghax). No visible changes to the Switch or Joycon!!! v1.7 2018-06-28

Please post any improvements or clarifications you'd like to see. If this passes muster, Mods can move it to the tutorials forum if appropriate.
v1.0
- beta tutorial
v1.1
- added some more text, and links to joycon teardowns
v1.2
- added reed dimensions
- added info about side affects and charging (there are no side effects)
v1.3
- added details on magnets
v1.4
- added more purchase options for magnetic reed switch
v1.5
- added link to https://gbatemp.net/threads/f-g-joycon-mod-magnethax-switch-edition.502459/ for credit to an older magnetic switch thread and instructions
v1.6
- added advise to disconnect battery before starting soldering.
v1.7
- added a user experience link at the bottom describing some more details.
-----------------------------------
This should be a pretty solid method for installing a MAGNETIC REED RELAY into your Right Joycon. the purpose is to have a cosmetically PERFECT Switch, with the ability to launch RCM with almost no effort. You just need to have a strong magnet to hold near the bottom right corner of the right joycon while you press power and volume + when booting. There are no known side affects of this method. i.e. you can still charge, use the joycon or switch normally. It's essentially stock when there is no magnet nearby and should last forever with no risk (after installation). I'd not send it in for warranty repair with the reed switch installed though :). This is a MUCH better option than a jig if you don't mind some soldering

The tutorial requires MODEST disassembly and soldering skill.

I'm not saying my approach and tutorial is any better than what other's have done (and posted). They certainly deserve credit. However, this is what I did and I think it's the best approach. I had previously posted a PSA about "why jigs are a bad idea" as I don't agree with them generally. So here is an explanation (for the reasonably skilled solderer) to do a magnetic reed switch the way I did it.

Note that much of the tutorial text is IN the spoilers with the pictures. Don't miss it. It is always at the top above the picture. I elected to keep this pretty visual rather than text, but happy to add more if people want more detail.

It is advisable to disconnect the joycon battery before starting to solder. I didn't disconnect the battery when I did the mod. So there isn't a picture of it.

IMG_20180521_200510 tool list.jpg
I didn't include info on how to open the case beyond showing the triwing screwdriver. There are better tutorials on opening the joycon VIDEO and TEXT
The reed switch can be bought from digikey for about $0.50 each. Shipping via USPS first class mail runs about $3 for under 8oz. The reed switch is 1.8mm by 10mm (body of the switch). HERE is an option from Amazon that is bigger (2mm x 14mm)

reeds only image.jpg
Note, I used 6cm wires. I wish I had cut them to about 3cm. You will see later they were a little too long. Also, I didn't take a picture of it, but I generally use the soldering iron to melt off 1mm of the wire end for soldering. I don't usually use wire strippers on Kynar insulated solid 30AWG wire. Note this is also called "wire wrap wire" in many circles.

IMG_20180521_201804 6cm wires.jpg
This is one of the main items different from what most people have done. This approach takes less space and allows the wires to exit the reed switch from the same side toward the connector. BE CAREFUL!!! It's VERY easy to break the glass on the reed switch when bending the leads. I broke two, though they were not ruined, I didn't want them chipped. Use some tweezers or needle nose pliers to bend it about 1mm beyond the end of the glass.

IMG_20180521_202311 bend.jpg
IMG_20180521_202524 solder.jpg
The goal here is to use enough heat shrink to cover the exposed leads and solder, but little enough that it doesn't interfere with placement. I went about 1/8" beyond the electrical connections on each end of the device.

IMG_20180521_202608_resize.jpg
Sorry I didn't get a better picture here!! It will give you the idea however.

IMG_20180521_203056 shrinkage.jpg
Be careful with the foam. It actually serves a purpose protecting the other side of the flex cable from abrasion against the soldered pins.

IMG_20180521_201134 remove foam.jpg
Here are pins 1 and 10 that you want to solder to. Be VERY careful. This is a tight soldering job and you don't want to mess up. You can still back out at this point if you aren't comfortable.

IMG_20180521_201220 solder points.jpg
IMG_20180521_203056 soldered.jpg
I think this is the best place to put it. The Joycon is pretty tight once assembled but there is ample room above the PCB and wire routing location where I have stuck it here.

IMG_20180521_203156 reed installed 1.jpg
IMG_20180521_203234 replace foam.jpg
If it isn't obvious, the way you know you did it right are with the below two tests, with and without magnet, and what you should see on the screen. Speaking of Magnets: I'd consider using a 1/4" or larger rare earth or "neodymium magnet" They come in different grades N35 N42 N50 etc. The higher the number the stronger. Any of them should work. The dark brown or black "ceramic" magnets work but they are not as strong so you might consider a larger size (maybe 1/2"??). Ebay has tons of them, Harbor Freight has rare earth magnets and magnetic grabber tools. Buymagnets.com is also an option but shipping might kill it.
IMG_20180521_203724_resize no magent.jpg
IMG_20180521_203750_resize with magnet.jpg

Here is a nice discussion of specific wire lengths and soldering technique as well as a way to use the kickstand to store the magnet [Post 84]
 

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Last edited by gallymimu,

DBA

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I did the same but fixed it with hot glue. This method is easy, transparent, harmless, handy, everything you want for this kind of modification.
Great job for the tutorial.
 
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Rasa39

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Btw if people are scared of soldering going everywhere, or using too much, then try my approach.

I used a fine tip (900M-T-I) on my iron in order to be as accurate as possible and to not melt any part of the plastic that can happen with a bigger iron/tip. (I removed the back shell from the rail to get better purchase on the rail itself)
Anyway I tinned the wires with a little solder (so little it could barely be seen), then used just that amount to join the wires to the solder joints at pin 1 and pin 10 (tip only melted a tiny portion of each joint).
I was worried this would be too weak and yet despite bending the wire at the joints several times while I was positioning the switch, the connections stayed solid.

So if you can steady your hand well enough, and have a fine needle tip lying around, then hopefully this might help.
 
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gallymimu

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I did the same but fixed it with hot glue. This method is easy, transparent, harmless, handy, everything you want for this kind of modification.
Great job for the tutorial.

Cool, thanks.

Good idea on the hot glue to keep in in place.
 

Maximize0987

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I have an idea to install a reed switch or a momentary switch at the back of the switch (console), that connects the power, volume +, and pins to the joycon. All connected to one reed/momentary. Not sure if the wiring all connected would cause a communication issue. Im interested in input if anybody has any ideas. Thanks
 

pandavova

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xiaomi is great , i love their stuff
but i was not talking about the reed switch
i was talking about the type c cable itself
i assumed you were aware that it has been said that type c cables need to have a 56k ohm resistor built into them to be used safely with the switch
to prevent the voltage regulator from burning up alla the 3rd party dock flaw
i guess so far there has not been any real evidence that this is happening but it is widely suggested to use only USB type C cables that have a resistor in them to be sure you don't fry your switch

https://www.amazon.com/ZMI-Premium-Braided-Sleeve-Charging/dp/B075M647JY?ref=ast_p_ep&th=1
it has a 56K ohm resistor
 
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gallymimu

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I have an idea to install a reed switch or a momentary switch at the back of the switch (console), that connects the power, volume +, and pins to the joycon. All connected to one reed/momentary. Not sure if the wiring all connected would cause a communication issue. Im interested in input if anybody has any ideas. Thanks

This doesn't sound like a practical option. Do you have some plan for parallel switches to tie each line to it's respective source? Or do you already know/suspect that all of these inputs pull down to ground to activate?
 

Maximize0987

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This doesn't sound like a practical option. Do you have some plan for parallel switches to tie each line to it's respective source? Or do you already know/suspect that all of these inputs pull down to ground to activate?


No idea, but I think I'll probe it today. I was hoping someone had considered it before me. One button rcm mode seems like a nice upgrade.
 

gallymimu

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So the power/volume switch pcb all three switches share a ground

OK so your next problem is, if you tie them all together, on a switch, then they will all go to ground when you press any of them. I'm not sure you can do it without a multipole switch (even if the other side is ground on all of them).
 

Maximize0987

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OK so your next problem is, if you tie them all together, on a switch, then they will all go to ground when you press any of them. I'm not sure you can do it without a multipole switch (even if the other side is ground on all of them).

the only thing I can think of is using a ic like the cd4066


where the momentary switch will power the ic, so that it is not draining the battery

they dont seem to make a 3pst switch small enough to work
 

gallymimu

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the only thing I can think of is using a ic like the cd4066


where the momentary switch will power the ic, so that it is not draining the battery

they dont seem to make a 3pst switch small enough to work

yeah, I'm not sure there is a better option. I've not seen (though I've not looked) for very small multipole switches like that. SMT relays, solid state relays, 3 open drain NFETs.... all seem like a hassle to do IMHO.

Also be careful of not powering the CD4066, some solid state ics act funny if you back feed them through their pins without power on VCC.
 

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Last edited by Maximize0987,

SodaSoba

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So I got around to actually testing my reed switch yestersay, I've had issues getting into rcm, the magnet wasn't the issue for me but the placement of it.

It naturally wants to move to the taptic, after working out the correct placement it works perfectly, it feels better than jamming in a jig into the rail for sure.
 

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