Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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And you missed the entire point of why some use the back.

What is the point according to you, I wonder?

To me it's that the solder points on the back are easier to access, less risky to solder on and don't require me to remove the apu shield and mess with thermal paste. BlueBeans' install looks nice to me
 
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Thank you! It’s been a long process trying to figure out that I got a bad batch of mosfets.

In terms of your readings I always want me readings between 0.5 to 0.9. That would be on DAT0, CMD, and CLK. According to your flex cable that would be points A, C, and D.

Make sure that you are using flux. It will help your solder flow and make a much cleaner install.
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Post install. Check for shorts. Is the pico flashing an error? Also, check the lcd fpc connector. Make sure you didn’t bend any pins reinstalling the cable.
Thank you for replay... Yes all 3 oled console working fine after remove all things i well post my install pic.. Let me teake pic of all job. And reading value.
❤️
Dat0 adapter reading 0.696 v
Cmd 0.464 v
3v3 0.884 V
Rst 1.3 v
MOSFE cpu read 0.201 v
Gnd 0
Clk 0.714 v

The adapter not soldring yet for more info is it good pic with 2k camera and use boom rf4 microscope.

The green mask to keep magnate wier way from Gnd. I use other wier in pic on Clk but size worry me on Clk so i change it to 0.02 mm
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Last edited by Danook28,
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What is the point according to you, I wonder?

To me it's that the solder points on the back are easier to access, less risky to solder on and don't require me to remove the apu shield and mess with thermal paste. BlueBeans' install looks nice to me
That isn't a clear benefit if you're going to stretch it to open and tear the front shield to access the CLK.
 
thickness should be 0.6mm, otherwise it won't fit under the emmc cover
hello friend. do i need to change anything aside from thickness? thank in advance
 

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Hi I would like to ask again since my question seems to have been ignored.

I have a hac001 (01) switch and was wondering if that means I needed the V2 instead of the V1 as I noticed there are up to v5 :/ I know one is for.litw and OLED but yeah.
 
Are you using awg30??

Does anyone know where to get the hwfly version of rp2040?? The store disappeared from ali
I’m using 32awg magnetic wire.
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Hi I would like to ask again since my question seems to have been ignored.

I have a hac001 (01) switch and was wondering if that means I needed the V2 instead of the V1 as I noticed there are up to v5 :/ I know one is for.litw and OLED but yeah.
Yes you need the v2 cable. V2 cables can be used for v2, lite, and OLED. Only the v1 is different. It’s the orientation of the caps on the cpu.
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The price does a big jump between 30 (4.11€) and 50 (28.88€), so unless you are ordering 250+ (30.43€) it's not worth it anyway
I wanted to buy 50 myself but stopped at 30 because of the price increase.
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Thank you for replay... Yes all 3 oled console working fine after remove all things i well post my install pic.. Let me teake pic of all job. And reading value.
❤️
Dat0 adapter reading 0.696 v
Cmd 0.464 v
3v3 0.884 V
Rst 1.3 v
MOSFE cpu read 0.201 v
Gnd 0
Clk 0.714 v

The adapter not soldring yet for more info is it good pic with 2k camera and use boom rf4 microscope.

The green mask to keep magnate wier way from Gnd. I use other wier in pic on Clk but size worry me on Clk so i change it to 0.02 mmView attachment 409665View attachment 409666View attachment 409669View attachment 409673
Good job! Make sure to give everything a good cleaning with some IPA (alcohol)
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And you missed the entire point of why some use the back.
What point am I missing?
 
Last edited by BlueBeans,
My first OLED, I don't know why, but it worked at first try 🤷🏽‍♂️ didn't even had to cut the huge shield off 😄
 

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I’m using 32awg magnetic wire.
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Yes you need the v2 cable. V2 cables can be used for v2, lite, and OLED. Only the v1 is different. It’s the orientation of the caps on the cpu.
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I wanted to buy 50 myself but stopped at 30 because of the price increase.
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Good job! Make sure to give everything a good cleaning with some IPA (alcohol)
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What point am I missing?
I think the adapter dat0 is The reson that chip not glitch blue lite the 4 time yellow light... 👏
 
Good job! I use to cut the shield until I read that someone didn’t so I stopped. Still cover with Kapton tape though.
If I wrap it up with kapton tan I always get problem and picofly keeps spitting error codes, so I have to put the tape on whatever is beneath and over it.
I'll have to try not cutting shield method on V1 and lite and see if it works.
Cutting off the shield from RAM gave me few mm of air between picofly and big shield
 
The shielding plate on the OLED is thicker than on the V1, V2.
I didn't leave out the CPU shield and everything still works.

Start the console in the OFW and see if you can back up the NAND without any problems. Then you can say everything works ;)
 
Thanks you mr blue... I change chip and fw. And the oled console is finally working cfw thanks man. ❤️ ❤️ ❤️
All this time and finally picofly is best chip...
 

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Last edited by Danook28,
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If I wrap it up with kapton tan I always get problem and picofly keeps spitting error codes, so I have to put the tape on whatever is beneath and over it.
I'll have to try not cutting shield method on V1 and lite and see if it works.
Cutting off the shield from RAM gave me few mm of air between picofly and big shield
That’s what I mean. I put it under and over as well. I still cut the shield for everything except the oled.
 
The shielding plate on the OLED is thicker than on the V1, V2.
I didn't leave out the CPU shield and everything still works.

Start the console in the OFW and see if you can back up the NAND without any problems. Then you can say everything works ;)
You mean backing it up from hekate??
Does modchip creates problem with nand backups??

I just cut off the CPU shield on RAM side.
 

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