Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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There are people here who charges 60 for everything, regardless of the model
Meanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip price
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So I've just checked the survey results @Dee87 @lightninjay @QuiTim tagging because you might be interested to know the results so far;

So far the most common factors are;
  • Switch Lite - (57.1%)
  • Rp2040-zero/one - (85.7%)
  • Mosfet install - (71.4%)
  • Dual Mosfet - (60%)
  • Most Common Mosfet - IRFHS8342
  • No SCA/SLC - (100%)
  • Memory - Toshiba/skhynix (42.9%)
  • 47Ohm Resistors - (71.4%)
  • Blue Screen - (57.1%)
  • Console worked before closing - (57.1%)
If others wish to reply the survey is here
 
Last edited by Adran_Marit,
hi folks, i would like to ask what is the difference between installing a rp2040 zero and a rp2040 tiny?
 
How can I know if I have purchased the updated version?
 

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Anyone knows why does this happen? I had my v2 / Lite installed the same way without any problem.

This msg shows up whenever i was trying to boot into Emummc.

Sysnand's booting fine, tried to run zelda working so far no prob
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Thank you so very much @abal1000x for helping me diagnose the corrupt emmc black screen.

I resoldered everything including a permanent dat0 adapter and not only did this fix it, but it boots INSTANTLY

View attachment 377111View attachment 377112View attachment 377113View attachment 377114
Hey bro the installation is neat, where did you get the tiny copper thing for Dat 0 > B-)B-)
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It made no difference. I got it to boot once to the correct screen and when I put the shield on again it’s just a blue light
Bro i've experienced it , try to use mosfet instead of the flex ribbon, idk why the flex cable's mosfet shorted when i tried to install it on my oled, but it works great on mosfet all the time
 

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Last edited by Hellflame,
So the culprit is the flex after all?
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I say 1 week worth of meal is the ideal..
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hey hey, where that beatifull one again.:rofl2:
I’m still not sure because it’s still acting strange sometime. Like it’ll shut off. It’s very frustrating. I cut the shield a little more just in case it was pinching and went back to the 0.1 wire instead of the 30awg since I was afraid of the pressure it might be causing. Before changing all that cuz that was this morning at one point I got a random orange screen of death. After unplugging it and plugging it back it went away and hasn’t come back but that was definitely scary. I ordered some 36awg which should be here soon hopefully.
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there are a few good distrubitors of the flex cable but there are also alot ones who send out trash cables , we have seen alot of people having issues.
after installing mosfets without flex the issue where gone.

its the same with those crappy dat0 adapters.

so like i say use mosfets and save that money u pay and waiting time for the flex and be done with it
Can you post a link to the good sellers?
 
Last edited by BlueBeans,
Meanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip price
Post automatically merged:

So I've just checked the survey results @Dee87 @lightninjay @QuiTim tagging because you might be interested to know the results so far;

So far the most common factors are;
  • Switch Lite - (57.1%)
  • Rp2040-zero/one - (85.7%)
  • Mosfet install - (71.4%)
  • Dual Mosfet - (60%)
  • Most Common Mosfet - IRFHS8342
  • No SCA/SLC - (100%)
  • Memory - Toshiba/skhynix (42.9%)
  • 47Ohm Resistors - (71.4%)
  • Blue Screen - (57.1%)
  • Console worked before closing - (57.1%)
If others wish to reply the survey is here
Hey well i did try to see all the questions that where asked when u released it but since u need to use a email to get further i stopped there mainly because its google Xd ( Privacy nerd here)

the survey is pretty interesting but there i one most important question u have left out and that is have u had any experience with repair/modding/soldering before.

because the thing is most of the people who do this install have very little to zero experience in soldering or repair.

therefor they barely know what they are doing and the install issue nr.1 is having almost none experience installing and not knowing the basics .

like i said plenty of times i have had all variant of switches hardware and version wise and never encountered an issue.

one example is Freelander(not trying to talk shit about u)
he has damaged somany switches while trying to mode by doing basic mistake (grinding on soldering point and other rookie mistakes)

thats why i say this survey is nice but not really what u need to see where the issues come frome (since thats the point of the survey correct?)

installing a pico doesnt take a expert but it does take some basic knowledge i mean sure a beginner can be lucky and get it done if he takes his time and has the correct equipment and knows how to use it.

but u did a nice job with u survey insteresting number i like that most people use mosfet instead of the finished product even though its a bit harder.
 
Meanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip price
Post automatically merged:

So I've just checked the survey results @Dee87 @lightninjay @QuiTim tagging because you might be interested to know the results so far;

So far the most common factors are;
  • Switch Lite - (57.1%)
  • Rp2040-zero/one - (85.7%)
  • Mosfet install - (71.4%)
  • Dual Mosfet - (60%)
  • Most Common Mosfet - IRFHS8342
  • No SCA/SLC - (100%)
  • Memory - Toshiba/skhynix (42.9%)
  • 47Ohm Resistors - (71.4%)
  • Blue Screen - (57.1%)
  • Console worked before closing - (57.1%)
If others wish to reply the survey is here
I like the idea, and if enough people take this survey I think we might get some insights on these 2-3 types of errors that we have been seeing recently.
I've done 13 installs by now (all models, 10 with pico, the other 3 with sx/hwfly but I redid those with pico aswell)
The only issue I faced was hwfly flex cable (for clk,cmd,rts) and (maybe) a shorted dat0 (not sure if this was the issue but i changed that aswell).
What I can see from reading this thread at least 2 times over is that after Pico debute on the scene alot of people built up the courage to try this mod because of the cheap price.
Younger people (most likely with less income) tend to buy Lite because of the price and portability, and I believe that this is the main reason we are seeing the spike in dead/damaged Lites; young unexperienced people trying to use a cheap mod to save some more money.
Having an oportunity to have limitless supply of games for aroud $10 is really tempting (because, let's be honest this is what this is about for the 95%).
People who bought a $400 console and $130 mod chip will either have some pro do the installation or they most likely know what they are doing before they decide to spend $130 on a modchip.
TL;DR
In the end, I don't wanna jinx my "luck" but I'm with @Dee87 on this one and I really think that in 99.5% of the cases it's installation issue (appart from the ones who used infamous 2.72fw) because there is just not that much hardware variation in switch models to account for such a different user experience during mod installation
 
Hi guys, today I received a switch victim of an incorrect picofly DIY installation.
I immediately identified the problem (it was very evident) as the CPU cable was shorted to ground.
The console did not turn on.
I just partially got it working again.
The current conditions are as follows:
1) The console can start hekate but it doesn't start in OFW, Nintendo appears and then black screen. To start hekate again, I have to disconnect the battery.
2) I get slow emmc error, but I think it's an EMMC hardware error, as I can backup boot0,1 and also all emmc. However, I cannot save the keys, I receive an error (photo attached).
3) I created emummc and it starts up, but it doesn't wake up from rest mode.
My question is is there any way to reset mmc? (I have a donor switch, in case I could use the mmc.)
Can I wake from sleep in emummc?
I attach all the photos.
Thanks for your support.
 

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I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wall 😪 every time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.
I got the same issue and remembered your post. In my case, the D point was bulging so much that when the fan is screwed in, the mosfet gets shorted. I resoldered and flattened all mosfet points and it's working fine now.
 
I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wall 😪 every time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.

like i said u has a issue with eather ur soldering/wire is getting grounded check ur soldering and u will find the issue
 
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