Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I want to install picofly on a switch lite but without flex cable so i need to use mosfets. The most used one (IRFHS8342) is not available in my country so i need to pick another mosfet. What criteria should i be looking at in order to make sure the mosfet is compatible with picofly?
check at this post
 
So i think if drain to source voltage is 30V, continuous drain current is higher than 12A and if its N type mosfet i should be okay. Right?
I personally dont know I havent used a alternative yet, compare the datasheets. my electronics knowledge goes as far as ohm's law and soldering.
 
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After a little bit research on my local electronics stores i think FDS6690AS should be compatible with picofly. Can anyone let me know if they tried this mosfet already?
 
hi again, Any advice, I already changed the chip, the firmware of the chip and the reset cable, I just have to shorten it even more, I appreciate any help
 

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hi again, Any advice, I already changed the chip, the firmware of the chip and the reset cable, I just have to shorten it even more, I appreciate any help
Check the first page of Picofly AIO Thread click the LED Indicators tab you will see what error colors mean. You can also check Picofly Install Guide for more info.

LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success

or Error Code List FW 2.70 and above

3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). This was made to make possible pi pico debugging + get rid of RGB/GRB issues
Error codes list (= is long pulse, * is short pulse):

= USB flashing done

** RST is not connected
*= CMD is not connected
=* D0 is not connected
== CLK is not connected
 
check first page of

Check the first page of Picofly AIO Thread click the LED Indicators tab you will see what error colors mean. You can also check Picofly Install Guide for more info.

LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success

or Error Code List FW 2.70 and above

3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). This was made to make possible pi pico debugging + get rid of RGB/GRB issues
Error codes list (= is long pulse, * is short pulse):

= USB flashing done

** RST is not connected
*= CMD is not connected
=* D0 is not connected
== CLK is not connected

That reminds me, change the flash codes to be listed first. Also for dat0 I might know a couple of people in the states who might have them...
 
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as in remove EMMC with hot air station? I have one but am not confident enough to reball. just looking to buy one closer instead of waiting for china shipment.
trust me its really not that hard . just take ur time .
when u take the emmc take ur time dont try to pull it to early and everything will be fine

also reballing is the easiest part :-)
 
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I just hacked my Switch using the RP2040 chip. Every time I restart or shut it down, there is a high chance of encountering a black screen, which appears to be a freeze. Pressing the power button doesn't elicit any response, and the chip's LED remains off. I need to perform a 10-second long press of the power button to force a restart, which then turns on the LED. My RP2040 firmware version is 2.73, but after a forced restart, the firmware rolls back to version 2.67. Does anyone know what could be causing this issue?
 
I just hacked my Switch using the RP2040 chip. Every time I restart or shut it down, there is a high chance of encountering a black screen, which appears to be a freeze. Pressing the power button doesn't elicit any response, and the chip's LED remains off. I need to perform a 10-second long press of the power button to force a restart, which then turns on the LED. My RP2040 firmware version is 2.73, but after a forced restart, the firmware rolls back to version 2.67. Does anyone know what could be causing this issue?
thats "normal"
i usually patch the firmware 3-5 times before i reboot and recheck. It usually works for me that way.
 
thats "normal"
i usually patch the firmware 3-5 times before i reboot and recheck. It usually works for me that way.
the point is it probably will freeze in blackscreen (not every times) after reboot or shutdown,must long press shutdown button more than 10s to power on,that is normal?Can firmware upgrades be used to fix this in the future?
 
the point is it probably will freeze in blackscreen (not every times) after reboot or shutdown,must long press shutdown button more than 10s to power on,that is normal?Can firmware upgrades be used to fix this in the future?
oh sorry - i missed the freezing part. it didnt freeze for me tbh - it just sometimes doesnt flash on first try for me (without a freeze) sorry for the confusion
 

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