Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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So as i earlier said for me it's blue then white (I'm a little colourblind so i might be wrong), Clk, cpu
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Hi everyone, i am installing on my lite, i just wonder why we put pico on top of mmc, it seem fit quite good, place it ontop of ram require cut the shield, and i want to keep it intact as much as posible. Anyone who put in on here can help me with the pinout closest with it? , Pinout on the pdf tut quite far from here. for eg, the 3.3v
 


ur white color is actually cyan check mosftes/flex cable and cpu cable

on the otherhand ur dat 0 adapter isnt set properly your supposed to align the white line with the emmc

edit : Why are u using a thicker wire for 3v ? there is no need just use ur 0.1mm like on ur other connections there is no need for thicker wire on 3v/gnd
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View attachment 372459
Hi everyone, i am installing on my lite, i just wonder why we put pico on top of mmc, it seem fit quite good, place it ontop of ram require cut the shield, and i want to keep it intact as much as posible. Anyone who put in on here can help me with then pinout closest with it?
the pinout is still the same , u cant get alot closer to them.most of them are right infront of the rp2040
 
the pinout is still the same , u cant get alot closer to them.most of them are right infront of the rp2040
yep, most of them are close, but for gnd and 3.3v, I think there are plenty of pin that I could make a good routing, gnd is easy to get, but I can find 3.3, so if you have another point of 3.3v, please let me know
 
Does the wire the cpu cable need to be thick or it can be 0,1mm magnet wire?
0.1mm will not work the Cpu Mosfet but for mosfet gate 0.1mm will work fine. Use 0.2mm or 0.25mm or 0.3mm For the mosfet. For other points CLk, CMD, Dat0 and RST 0.1mm will be fine but using 0.2mm will also be fine.
 
Last edited by bilalhassan341,
Quick one regarding Firmware 2.72. Does this mean when flashing the RP2040-Zero after dropping the .uf2 file, I don't have to permanently bridge the RGB jumper if the LED flashes Green? Or will it not flash green anymore? Thanks.

Edit - Never mind. It flashes Yellow.
 
Last edited by Takezo-San,
If it recognizes one card then the problem should not be with the card reader.
It might be the case that you are missing the exfat drivers but i dont think that it should matter in this stage.
Also, the number of fake Lexar cards is the highest in the market, so you might just have a bad card
I don't really think the problem is with the SD because it works with my other hacked Switch. I don't use exfat so I don't that's the problem either. I'll just ask for a refund and buy another :(
 
Quick one regarding Firmware 2.72. Does this mean when flashing the RP2040-Zero after dropping the .uf2 file, I don't have to permanently bridge the RGB jumper if the LED flashes Green? Or will it not flash green anymore? Thanks.
I flashed it earlier today and it blinked green for me. I didn't need to bridge the jumper before
 
0.1mm will not work the Cpu Mosfet but for mosfet gate 0.1mm will work fine. Use 0.2mm or 0.25mm or 0.3mm For the mosfet. For other points CLk, CMD, Dat0 and RST 0.1mm will be fine but using 0.2mm will also be fine.
I meant cpu flex cable sorry. The 0.1 should be fine right?
 
got the same board. also cant update via the usb. updated via picofly toolbox
hello,but for update using the toolbox the chip must be installed in the switch right?? cant update the chips in the pc anymore like previous chips then??
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Ahhh ur talking about purple screen I understood purple led.

Purple screen is cmd resistor issue , recheck connection if everything is fine check the resistor if its damaged it is a 4,7k resistor.

Purple screen will be fixed after fixing cmd resitor
thanks for answwer,yes is purple screen BUT right now the console dont turn on at all so right now is black screen,now we already change the resistor,turn on 2 times in purple screen but not anymore,now blak screen,i very very worried because is a brand new console ;.(
 
And here's a fourth kill :(. OLED installation gives purple color, and doesn't turn on when the modchip is removed. While installing I accidentally removed the 3v3 pad. Could that be the reason?

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4th in a row🥲. Take your time bro don't rush it. My point is that if your are soldering a wire why you are not using a solder mask. Use solder mask next time so your wire will not roam around in your switch.
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I meant cpu flex cable sorry. The 0.1 should be fine right?
0.1mm will work fine for the flex cable. Btw 0.1mm wire is easy to handle than thicker wire.
 
Last edited by bilalhassan341,
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I flashed it earlier today and it blinked green for me. I didn't need to bridge the jumper before
Hmm weird. I always had to jump mine before but I'm sure the whole jumping rgb process was so that debugging would be easier however now that its changed to long and slow pulses, I'm going to skip the jump because now it's only 3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). Unless....the yellow upon the initial uf2 flash was an error code!?
 
Tried modding my turquoise Lite yesterday, but no dice and I checked all the connections, made sure nothing is shorting before powering it on.
No LED activity and black screen of death. Heard a high pitch noise from somewhere, maybe the mosfets? Noticed afterwards that I had forgot to pull out the battery (oops!), but I undid my work today and it sprung back to life. So I guess something wasn't soldered correct after all.
Just thought I'd share my Switch Lite's near death experience..
Oh well, back to work.. Second time's the charm eh?
 
Last edited by Dee87,
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if you use DAT0 adapter, it could shift a little, shorting neighbour pins


probably you insert the flat cable in opposite direction, you can probe USB lines right to the rp2040 pins with multimeter to ensure the pinout is correct
right now we remote the chip and flex at all,the console dont turn on,just 2 times get purple screen
 
View attachment 372459
Hi everyone, i am installing on my lite, i just wonder why we put pico on top of mmc, it seem fit quite good, place it ontop of ram require cut the shield, and i want to keep it intact as much as posible. Anyone who put in on here can help me with the pinout closest with it? , Pinout on the pdf tut quite far from here. for eg, the 3.3v
Just route it outside of the shield. That's what I do to all non-OLED models. like so:
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Just be sure to leave the wires as short as you can to prevent any issues during the injection process, but by my experience it's never failed so far and I've done half a dozen Lites.
 

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