Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Hello @FreeLander, looks like you found the dangerous incorrect diagram by sthetix where the 3.3v point is actually direct 4.2v right from the battery. Be careful, such overvoltage may fry your RP Pico and the console. Please use the proper 3.3v point here:
View attachment 366724

Hello. Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, I made the mistake of wiring the 3.3v to the cap shown in red, then changed it to the correct one you pointed out. I'm still getting a single green led then nothing. Console is still booting normally without the modchip, thankfully. Here's my soldering. Would love to hear if you spot something wrong
latest firmware is 2.65
Yes, sorry. 2.65 downloaded directly from Github
 

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WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE?

Hello asking for help, OLED switch is hard to turn on(NOT GUARANTEED ONE TAP POWER BUTTON), or randomly turns on when I tap/hold power button WHEN ONLY TOTAL SHUTDOWN. I did this after picofly and removed EVERYTHING. When it turns on , buttons and chargers all work no issue except for missing charging icon on top left when docked.

May I ask for help?
 
Voultar is an experienced modder. Here he is installing the MOSFETs on a Lite. He does a really nice job with it. Other pics from his install are on his feed.


Fuck, that video was loud. Still, he's recently made a eMMC replacement for the Wii U.
 
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WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE?

Hello asking for help, OLED switch is hard to turn on(NOT GUARANTEED ONE TAP POWER BUTTON), or randomly turns on when I tap/hold power button WHEN ONLY TOTAL SHUTDOWN. I did this after picofly and removed EVERYTHING. When it turns on , buttons and chargers all work no issue except for missing charging icon on top left when docked.

May I ask for help?

These buttons are hella sensitive. I had to clean mine with ipa and reseat them
 
Is it ok or any effect if I solder the CMD point to the left side of this resistor and the 3.3V point as shown on switch lite?
 

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RP PICO is such a headache. It worked fine but when I cut it, it no longer boots.
Stick with rp2040, people.
 

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i installed a picofly in my v2 Switch and it works perfectly fine.
After updating OFW from 15.0 to 16.0 i just got a black screen.
(i did this using the official updater).

it doesnt boot at all (no logo etc) but cfw still works on the newest.
After checking fuses it was showing 17 (which means v 15.X) but it should be 18 (v 16.X)
how do i allow my switch to burn a fuse and access ofw? i was using daybreak to downgrade to 15.x and ofw works again...
So.... anyone know how to disable the "fuse burn blocker"?
i use picofly just for homebrew and play all my legit games by card. emunand does work too but i d like ofw to be up to date
 
i installed a picofly in my v2 Switch and it works perfectly fine.
After updating OFW from 15.0 to 16.0 i just got a black screen.
(i did this using the official updater).

it doesnt boot at all (no logo etc) but cfw still works on the newest.
After checking fuses it was showing 17 (which means v 15.X) but it should be 18 (v 16.X)
how do i allow my switch to burn a fuse and access ofw? i was using daybreak to downgrade to 15.x and ofw works again...
So.... anyone know how to disable the "fuse burn blocker"?
i use picofly just for homebrew and play all my legit games by card. emunand does work too but i d like ofw to be up to date
on boot hold vol + and - and boot into ofw, after that update firmware
 
Hi guys, I'm lurking the thread from the very firsts pages, you're awesome. I've finally gathered the courage to try modding my v2. But trying soldering the RST I've accidentally removed the two tiny cap. I can't find informations about those cap and they are really difficult to replace. What should I do?
Up. Anyone know if I have to replace the caps and if i can use the pi-zero`s one.
 

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