Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I mean show photos of the board, since it's hard to see where exactly those wires are soldered to. My diagrams assume soldering directly to the eMMC board, or, at least, to its header, I am unaware of other points. Just wanted to check
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In the same message you just quoted
Used this scheme
mcfly-png.362537
, but CLK is only one point that worked for me. CMD is came off due small soler points and RST is smaller than CMD. I heard that is theese points is more secure. For my opinion is is much easier to solder to EMMC. Working on CPU mosfet now)
 
hello sir rehius, whats the difference between the normal uf and this new x2 timeout
One of the main speed-up tricks is a fast glitch failure detection where firmware waits for 5ms after the glitch and resets CPU in case of no eMMC activity. This is assumed as a timeout caused by the too strong pulse. If this timeout is too short, all attempts would be assumed as a timeout resulting in a cyan LED.

So for a short test in that _l firmware I increased the timeout to 14ms
 
One of the main speed-up tricks is a fast glitch failure detection where firmware waits for 5ms after the glitch and resets CPU in case of no eMMC activity. This is assumed as a timeout caused by the too strong pulse. If this timeout is too short, all attempts would be assumed as a timeout resulting in a cyan LED.

So for a short test in that _l firmware I increased the timeout to 14ms

got it, i already downloaded it ahaha for reference. btw thank you so much for the hardwork
 
Used this scheme
mcfly-png.362537
, but CLK is only one point that worked for me. CMD is came off due small soler points and RST is smaller than CMD. I heard that is theese points is more secure. For my opinion is is much easier to solder to EMMC. Working on CPU mosfet now)
TRY this one. The one you used is for v2, and you have a v1 board
 

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The main reason is lack of flux / temperature. The joint must be strong enough so the wire does not come off when you lightly pull it.

Please try to soldering to the eMMC board or its header, use decent amount of flux
he cant get it to stick so a small resistor and u tell him to solder to the emmc the header Xd

i would suggest emmc module

i bett if he tries it on the header hes gonna bridge someting

@AntonIX
 
The main reason is lack of flux / temperature. The joint must be strong enough so the wire does not come off when you lightly pull it.

Please try to soldering to the eMMC board or its header, use decent amount of flux
Which flux do you personally use? Since theirs different ones out there. I know the one Tronicsfix and Rossmann Repair seem to be the same one. Some kind of gel like flux in a syringe
 
Which flux do you personally use? Since theirs different ones out there. I know the one Tronicsfix and Rossmann Repair seem to be the same one. Some kind of gel like flux in a syringe
i use kimbo rma 218
its also "gel" in a syringe

been using it for years no issue

ClickMe
 
Last edited by Dee87,
The dual mosfet example is very difficult due to the location of S and G.
Is it ok to wire the S(ground) from the two mosfets to the cpu points respectively?

I may not be able to communicate well in English.
 
The dual mosfet example is very difficult due to the location of S and G.
Is it ok to wire the S(ground) from the two mosfets to the cpu points respectively?

I may not be able to communicate well in English.
Try with 1 MOSFET first, if it's not glitching, add another one.
In order to understand better your question, can you make a drawing of those connections?
 
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hello, I have my first unlocked oled and it works fine, until I put the screws on the board, there it no longer turns on, something presses on the reset and dat0 side and it stops working, any idea what it could be?

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 
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hello, I have my first unlocked oled and it works fine, until I put the screws on the board, there it no longer turns on, something presses on the reset and dat0 side and it stops working, any idea what it could be?

View attachment 364916
make sure u dont put pressure on the cables .......
 
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The dual mosfet example is very difficult due to the location of S and G.
Is it ok to wire the S(ground) from the two mosfets to the cpu points respectively?

I may not be able to communicate well in English.
Sure you can solder all pads separately. But as I see, you use a different, much larger mosfet, I'm pretty sure single one is enough, no need to setup dual
 
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hello, I have my first unlocked oled and it works fine, until I put the screws on the board, there it no longer turns on, something presses on the reset and dat0 side and it stops working, any idea what it could be?

View attachment 364916
Nothing is touching your points? Did you isolate it with Kapton tape?
 

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