Tutorial [TUTORIAL] [Noob-Friendly] NAND Dumping 2DS/3DS/3DS XL/N3DS/N3DS XL!

[tech_land]

Hi guise, I have a notice for anybody is trying to hardmod a n2DS (2DS XL).
The Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K USB/SD adaptor (that in the guide is striked from n3DS usb/sd adaptor list) work fine (i wrote 2 time 2 image in this 2DS XL).
The only bother is that the initial recognizing of the "disk to format" is like a result (pass me) of an exploit, or rather, The pc recognize the USB adaptor but not the disk to format at the first time, so you have to connect the usb cable a few time before the pc recognize the disk and show you the famous format popup.
This is not a goal, and is not a super notice.

Just for your knowledge if you already have a Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K.
bye

 

[SirNapkin1334]

Has anybody actually accidentally had their PC overwrite their 3DS's NAND with FAT32 ("formatted")?

 

[Der_Blockbuster]

I don't understand from where to where solder a GND (ground) wire to?

Once you have done that, get your wires and all the other materials you need to begin soldering. You will be working near the NAND: There are 4 main contacts that you will be soldering to. They are DAT0 (Data Zero), CMD, CLK (Clock), and we will use the metal SD card shielding for GND (Ground). The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter. All of these contacts are located on the opposite side of the motherboard. Flipping the motherboard may be a bit tedious and difficult to do, so here is a link that goes into detail on how to do it rather than me typing it here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+2DS+Motherboard+Replacement/35842

 

[SirNapkin1334]

I don't understand from where to where solder a GND (ground) wire to?

Once you have done that, get your wires and all the other materials you need to begin soldering. You will be working near the NAND: There are 4 main contacts that you will be soldering to. They are DAT0 (Data Zero), CMD, CLK (Clock), and we will use the metal SD card shielding for GND (Ground). The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter. All of these contacts are located on the opposite side of the motherboard. Flipping the motherboard may be a bit tedious and difficult to do, so here is a link that goes into detail on how to do it rather than me typing it here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+2DS+Motherboard+Replacement/35842

Solder to the blobs of solder that connect the Gamecart slot to the PCB.

 

[jaimesot]

Hi, can you please update the picture of the SD Adapter soldering points for the N3dSXL, its no longer available.

 

[vb_encryption_vb]

Hi, can you please update the picture of the SD Adapter soldering points for the N3dSXL, its no longer available.

Same as the rest.

 

[danpluso]

Hey guys, I tried hard modding my new3DSXL yesterday and had some problems so I just want to clarify some things before I try again with a different SD reader.

1. Can the wires used inside the 3DS be too long and/or thin? My internal wires are pretty thin at around 26AWG and about 5-6" in length. They are solid core wires and not stranded (not sure if this is better or worse). Could these be a potential problem area?
2. The micro USB cable I used for attaching to the SD reader has 4 sheathed wires and one bare wire. I'm guessing the bare wire is for insulating/shielding of sorts but I'm not 100% sure. Should I just cut that bare wire off and ignore it or solder it to ground (something I remember doing as a kid)?

Everything seems fine on the 3DS end which is nice. I get the blue screen when I plug my SD reader in and it boots normal when nothing is plugged in. The problem is when I plug the cable into the PC. The PC doesn't detect anything and the SD reader heats up really fast. It got pretty hot before I noticed it and was starting to melt the heat-shrink tubing I used so I'm guessing that SanDIsk GL827 I was using is toast now. I'll order an Anker reader and try again with that.

 

[vb_encryption_vb]

Check wiring, should have been luck with the anker, but if chipset has changed you will be SOL. Should use a 28-30 awg wire.

 

[danpluso]

Check wiring, should have been luck with the anker, but if chipset has changed you will be SOL. Should use a 28-30 awg wire.

Thanks for the help. I triple checked everything with a multimeter before plugging anything in and I couldn't find any issues. I'm not sure if the SD reader I used (tiny SanDisk reader) was even working (I've had it for so long and forgot to test it with a micro SD card first).
I just ordered the Anker reader. Have you heard reports of them having a different chipset now?

 

[vb_encryption_vb]

Thanks for the help. I triple checked everything with a multimeter before plugging anything in and I couldn't find any issues. I'm not sure if the SD reader I used (tiny SanDisk reader) was even working (I've had it for so long and forgot to test it with a micro SD card first).
I just ordered the Anker reader. Have you heard reports of them having a different chipset now?

At some point I believe the chipset was updated. Not sure, the one I had was junk from the jump so.

 

[danpluso]

At some point I believe the chipset was updated. Not sure, the one I had was junk from the jump so.

My Anker reader arrived today and I successfully dumped the NAND. For anyone wondering, I used the Anker 68ANREADER-B2A and have a New3DSXL.
I was reading at speeds of around 2.8MB/s so I'm suspecting the excessively long 26AWG wire I used internally may be the problem.

EDIT: Actually the slow speeds were caused by my older Windows7 desktop (has USB 2.0 ports). I tried dumping nand on my new Windows10 laptop and I get over 5MB/s

 

[FurRail]

Worked wonderful!
I didnt even use a recommended Card reader..

I used "Hama 35 in 1", works perfect.

Flashed my Old 3DS XL

 

[vb_encryption_vb]

Worked wonderful!
I didnt even use a recommended Card reader..

I used "Hama 35 in 1", works perfect.

Flashed my Old 3DS XL

03ds do works with nearly anything...

 

[DuckbearLab]

That's awesome! Thanks

 

[JDoawp]

Hi, can you please update the picture of the SD Adapter soldering points for the N3dSXL, its no longer available.

Same as the rest.

I have included picture, I pulled it from internet archive. I have also uploaded it to imgur but I can't post hyperlinks thus I have split it i. imgur. [com]/ hvjgkL3.jpg

 

[Hovel]

I could use some help,

I've just finished the soldering on my N3DSXL. Everything when well until I put everything back together and powered on again. I starts up normal, but the cursor in menu is flipping up/down/left/right, but mostly right.

I disconnected the ribbon cable for the circle pad and d-pad, but that doens't prevent the cursor for moving all over the place. I also calibrated the touchscreen with no errors, but I can't get the circle pad to calibrate.

What else can move the cursor around in your home menu? I'm still new to the 3DS, so sorry for asking.

 

[SirNapkin1334]

I could use some help,

I've just finished the soldering on my N3DSXL. Everything when well until I put everything back together and powered on again. I starts up normal, but the cursor in menu is flipping up/down/left/right, but mostly right.

I disconnected the ribbon cable for the circle pad and d-pad, but that doens't prevent the cursor for moving all over the place. I also calibrated the touchscreen with no errors, but I can't get the circle pad to calibrate.

What else can move the cursor around in your home menu? I'm still new to the 3DS, so sorry for asking.

You likely broke or improperly connected the ZIF cable for the circle pad. If it’s moving to the top right, that means a connection is not being made. Check that it’s fully inserted into the connector. Check it’s not upside-down. Check the connector is not broken.

 

[Hovel]

You likely broke or improperly connected the ZIF cable for the circle pad. If it’s moving to the top right, that means a connection is not being made. Check that it’s fully inserted into the connector. Check it’s not upside-down. Check the connector is not broken.

But if I disconnect the ZIF cable for the circle pad and power on, it should not be moving my cursor around right?

 

[SirNapkin1334]

But if I disconnect the ZIF cable for the circle pad and power on, it should not be moving my cursor around right?

No, if you disconnect it then it will be stuck on up-right for about 30 seconds, then do nothing at all.

 

[Hovel]

No, if you disconnect it then it will be stuck on up-right for about 30 seconds, then do nothing at all.

I've check the cable and I believe you're right. The cable/connecter seems to be damaged. (please have a look at my picture below and let me know if you agree.)

In the meanwhile I desoldered my hardmod wires to make sure I wasn't making any short circuit. That wasn't a good idee since my N3DSXL isn't booting anymore. The blue power led turn on for a few seconds and then turn off while making a click/pop noise. Did I "brick" my N3DSXL?