Double check your D- and D+ connections with a basic continuity check (battery disconnected of course).
Double check your D- and D+ connections with a basic continuity check (battery disconnected of course).
It was left on charge for several days, it got as high as 5% after 72 hrs, but instantly changed to sub 3% after a reboot
I will try to find my multimeter, SMH i was hoping i was doing something wrong on the software side.... as it charges to 3%
no continuity or shorts in D+ or D-, however in testing everything i noticed that pin 2 on my trinket m0, for the usb disconnect strap has a dead short to ground, not sure if thats normal as it appears to be a ground pin that its strapped to?
edit since this strap was optional i disconnected it, had a local electronics shop do the hardware install since i can't micro solder, fixed my charging issue and no more short on either side, thank you! i have been fighting this for days and didnt thint to probe for a short since it was otherwise working and would sortta charge!
Last edited by butterz,
Trinket uses dotstar
There was somebody talking about adding a dotstar led to an RCM X86. Might have been on Reddit. Will look around. They were looking to use pad 4 and Trinket UF2 code to control the RGB because just power on/off won’t control a multi color LED.
Dotstar ain’t cheap. By the time you purchase an LED, do the R&D and get the code written, compiled and tested…you‘re way beyond the cost of buying a Trinket and reusing the wires you’ve already soldered in.
I have a Trinket myself and having multi color LEDs hidden all up inside the back plane of my switch isn’t the first thing I show people when they ask about my switch…it just ain’t that impressive.
That was me. I've already made the code changes (which really just amounted to setting a variable and recompiling) and ordered the dotstars but haven't received them yet. Or maybe I have, I'm on vacation and they could already be waiting at home.
*scrolls one page back*
I’ll be damned. I knew it was somewhere…my younger years of alcohol abuse have not been kind to me.
I pulled one out of the package, tried to figure out which dang pad was pin 1, and then got distracted by other projects. Maybe I'll try it out this afternoon.
@mattytrog has just been doing some housecleaning on github. You can find all the files still by going up one level to https://github.com/mattytrog and then drilling back down.
ok yes i did, i just wanted to communicate in case you hadn't noticed
he’s been away from the site for the past two years. we’re hoping to see him back any day now. Fingers crossed.
He wrote this on his github page here: https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE
"I have been away for over 2 years so this is going to take me a while to get back correct. I can no longer access my old account on GBATemp."
Perhaps a mod or someone can help him gain access to his account again
I heard earlier in the thread that he was in touch with Chary and they're working on it. Something about confirming his identity.
Yes. I ”used” v7 for about a week. in so much as one would need to “use” a bootloader.
It‘s stable and many of the less necessary bits have been removed giving a much cleaner and simpler use case. It does what it says on the tin.
I went back to my hand rolled V6 release because I like to flip all the levers.
Last edited by popy,
my trinket arrived and its time to solder.
I have pulled the board fron the chassis and soldering to the underside alternate points but even doing that, there is one which is a tight spot, the Alt 3v supply.
I have tested with a meter and two smaller pads next to it are part of the same track so it makes it a little easier not having to worry about them but the components surrounding the pads did make it a solder that had to be done with care.
Not done any of the others yet apart from tinning all the required pads but those are all going to be straightforward
I have the luxury of this being a second switch, i expect this would be super stressful for someone who is soldering to their only unit!
Having studied the front side, i imagine there have been a few upset people who have destroyed their mainboard, i could solder to that side but when there are proper pads on the back, it isn't worth the elevated risk of soldering to the 0603 size capacitor for 3v
I have pulled the board fron the chassis and soldering to the underside alternate points but even doing that, there is one which is a tight spot, the Alt 3v supply.
I have tested with a meter and two smaller pads next to it are part of the same track so it makes it a little easier not having to worry about them but the components surrounding the pads did make it a solder that had to be done with care.
Not done any of the others yet apart from tinning all the required pads but those are all going to be straightforward
I have the luxury of this being a second switch, i expect this would be super stressful for someone who is soldering to their only unit!
Having studied the front side, i imagine there have been a few upset people who have destroyed their mainboard, i could solder to that side but when there are proper pads on the back, it isn't worth the elevated risk of soldering to the 0603 size capacitor for 3v
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