Tutorial  Updated

Trinket Internal Install.

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

usb intact.jpg


Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
Trinket Points.jpg


When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
trinket install points.jpg


Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
Finished.jpg



Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Altternative Pad 4 Point.jpg


Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Alt Joycon Rail Pin 10 Point.jpg


Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

another install.jpg


the pad on the power button to use.

power button point.jpg


i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

twinket power off.jpg


ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


charger_issue_volts.jpg


another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx
 

Attachments

Last edited by M-O-B, , Reason: added updated uf2 file.
Ok, thank you. I will most likely tackle it again on monday when I get some 34 awg wire and some better solder. Also, any comment on this pic regarding this small capacitor and both sides having continuity with ground?

i would clean up all the flux using ipa and a soft toothbrush then test the small cap again, some caps do act in the manner you say but from your image as it is with all the left over flux or whatever it is you used it looks like the missing cap has a bridge,but that could just be fluff from the cotton bud/qtip.
 
i would clean up all the flux using ipa and a soft toothbrush then test the small cap again, some caps do act in the manner you say but from your image as it is with all the left over flux or whatever it is you used it looks like the missing cap has a bridge,but that could just be fluff from the cotton bud/qtip.
Ok, I will clean up everything and look it again tomorrow. (Had to look up what ipa was as I'm staring at a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.) Thank you, and everyone else for their help.
 
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The work on the custom trinket goes on.
The the values and the parts itself are determined and ordered for some testing.
The schematic is updated and the work on the pcb is in progress
(it looks like the size will come close to 20mm x 15mm or just slightly bigger, but still smaller than the original trinket, even with the bigger m0-chip)
Schematic.jpg
 
@frep

Looks good dude, I just checked with the chip datasheet and everything looks fine :-). The only thing I would add is a connection for RX/TX for testing serial data to make sure commands from the chip are being sent and received properly, this would be a great benefit for testing your code out as you'll be able to see if it's working or not.
 
@frep

Looks good dude, I just checked with the chip datasheet and everything looks fine :-). The only thing I would add is a connection for RX/TX for testing serial data to make sure commands from the chip are being sent and received properly, this would be a great benefit for testing your code out as you'll be able to see if it's working or not.

hey MrDude!
Thanks, good idea with the Rx/Tx pins! I will add them (or exchange them with two of the general purpose io's D0, D2 and D4)
 
@mrdude
It looks to me that the SWD and SWC pins could be used for serial communication, since SWD has SCOM1PAD3 in the description ( -> Rx com1 ?) and SWC has SCOM1PAD2 in the description (Tx com1 ?).
Do you agree, this should work?
 
@frep

When you've done the board and tested - are you going to get a batch made? I found this site to be the cheapest: https://www.allpcb.com/

If you are, I'd love to get one of your boards for testing - obviously I'd be happy to pay for the parts and you time (or send me a blank board and I'll populate myself), if not no worries. You're doing a good job though, so keep up the good work.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

hey MrDude!
Thanks, good idea with the Rx/Tx pins! I will add them (or exchange them with two of the general purpose io's D0, D2 and D4)

@mrdude
It looks to me that the SWD and SWC pins could be used for serial communication, since SWD has SCOM1PAD3 in the description ( -> Rx com1 ?) and SWC has SCOM1PAD2 in the description (Tx com1 ?).
Do you agree, this should work?

I don't know off the top of my head - I know the chip has a few RX/TX points, but they are for different things like Serial/SPI/I2S. If you look at the data sheet if will tell you - You want the serial pins though.

I've uploaded the data sheet here:
https://mega.nz/#!1ghFACIC!2w37VztWAPwa9aMBza9X7AbsLIubbJXhezjjkji1V7s

That's got all the RX/TX info on it. I'm just about to go to work so can't help just now - I'll have a proper look later when I'm finished.
 
@frep

When you've done the board and tested - are you going to get a batch made? I found this site to be the cheapest: https://www.allpcb.com/

If you are, I'd love to get one of your boards for testing - obviously I'd be happy to pay for the parts and you time (or send me a blank board and I'll populate myself), if not no worries. You're doing a good job though, so keep up the good work.

sure, I can send you a board when they are done, but it will take some time until then. First, I need the parts for testing on the breadboard (1 week?). After things work there as expected, I have to finish the design and order the pcb's. (2-3 weeks?). So I guess we have to wait at least a month (maybe more), so I hope you are not in a hurry :-)
 
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sure, I can send you a board when they are done, but it will take some time until then. First, I need the parts for testing on the breadboard (1 week?). After things work there as expected, I have to finish the design and order the pcb's. (2-3 weeks?). So I guess we have to wait at least a month (maybe more), so I hope you are not in a hurry :-)

No I'm not in a hurry, I've ordered some parts as well - I have all the chips now (got from farnell) - but waiting for dev boards, transistors, voltage reg, etc from china so I guess about a month or so before I can start prototyping myself :-). I tested the Arduino blink code on the trinket - works well, I've no doubt it will work fine in these chips as well, but instead of an LED - I'll just mod it to send serial data instead (on/off) to test the chips are working.
 
Ok, I will clean up everything and look it again tomorrow. (Had to look up what ipa was as I'm staring at a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.) Thank you, and everyone else for their help.
I tested out a few things tonight on a new unmodded switch which was being trinket transplanted.

The capacitor for point 4, if grounded throws everything into a constant reboot loop on the trinket. So for cases where someone just sees a blinking red light chances are it's grounded. This also means USB function and charging is messed up since it can't tell what's really happening as the voltage keeps being dropped low from that point.

In this switch there was 5v above and below the diode when connected via usb.

Charging works fine, also noticed the diode didn't have the arrow and seemed more like a bridge connection since both sides showed the same readings and when usb wasn't connected had less than 1ohm resistance between them.

I also noticed the base voltage was 3.9 from the battery point not 4.2v like past ones I've tested.

So maybe your bottom diode is fine and you just need to fix and clean up the top capacitor area and replace the missing one.
 
Last edited by ,
I tested out a few things tonight on a new unmodded switch which was being trinket transplanted.

The capacitor for point 4, if grounded throws everything into a constant reboot loop on the trinket. So for cases where someone just sees a blinking red light chances are it's grounded. This also means USB function and charging is messed up since it can't tell what's really happening as the voltage keeps being dropped low from that point.

In this switch there was 5v above and below the diode when connected via usb.

Charging works fine, also noticed the diode didn't have the arrow and seemed more like a bridge connection since both sides showed the same readings and when usb wasn't connected had less than 1ohm resistance between them.

I also noticed the base voltage was 3.9 from the battery point not 4.2v like past ones I've tested.

So maybe your bottom diode is fine and you just need to fix and clean up the top capacitor area and replace the missing one.
Thanks Captain_Smek, should one side of that capacitor for point 4 be grounded though? I'll clean up everything after I get some more items and then try again tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
 
Thanks Captain_Smek, should one side of that capacitor for point 4 be grounded though? I'll clean up everything after I get some more items and then try again tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
I think the top point of the top one goes to ground, I should have wrote it down but it was a late night =/ I won't have another one opened up until tomorrow since I finally got a hold of some codes again. I think though as long as you give it a good cleaning and nothing is bridged you should be back on track.
 
Thanks Captain_Smek, should one side of that capacitor for point 4 be grounded though? I'll clean up everything after I get some more items and then try again tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

gnd pad and 3.2v pad.

20180715_213258.jpg
 
I think the top point of the top one goes to ground, I should have wrote it down but it was a late night =/ I won't have another one opened up until tomorrow since I finally got a hold of some codes again. I think though as long as you give it a good cleaning and nothing is bridged you should be back on track.
Thank you.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Thank you, do you know if that small capacitor (5 o'clock from that red mark in the pic you just posted) is connected to ground on both sides?
 
do you know if that small capacitor (5 o'clock from that red mark in the pic you just posted) is connected to ground on both sides?
Wouldn't make any sense connecting a capacitor only to ground. The upper pin/pad of this cap is GND and the lower one is the VB pin which is the power source that comes from the VBUS rail (USB).

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

no trinket or gemma used.
Is it something you got from TX, or just an other custom M0 MCU?
 
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Wouldn't make any sense connecting a capacitor only to ground. The upper pin/pad of this cap is GND and the lower one is the VB pin which is the power source that comes from the VBUS rail (USB).

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Is it something you got from TX, or just an other custom M0 MCU?

It's something custom..
 
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