Things you have fixed/modded recently
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I stuck a new laser in a ps2 slim and I've been restoring a dualshock 1 (have cleaned and replaced button membranes needs new film as the pins on the connector of the old one have worn off)
DMG Gameboy modding FINALLY DONE 
I'll make another thread for game console restorations where I'll dump all of the pics I took of this thing but for the meantime I'll leave you all with my 4 minute tour of what's been done to it.
I'll make another thread for game console restorations where I'll dump all of the pics I took of this thing but for the meantime I'll leave you all with my 4 minute tour of what's been done to it.
Last edited by Sicklyboy,
Replaced the speakers in 2x Whistler CR85 radar detectors. One is mine, one is my dad's. 2nd speaker replacement on mine, first on his. No idea why these things burn through speakers after a year or two.
Was a few months ago, but I had to repair/solder a speaker wire in my laptop.
Long story short, I accidentally put a screw through the speaker wire while closing the casing. ("Why isn't this screw going in? I'll just push harder.." lol)
Had to make a new route for the wire, since it was ~1cm shorter after the fix. Figured it out and the sound is perfect.
@Sicklyboy that looks like the exact model my dad uses! if his speaker ever goes out I'm glad to know it's replaceable.
Edit: I need to repair/replace a solenoid soon, its attached to a foot pedal that stops gas (Propane & Oxygen) from flowing, but it seems to be leaking now. And sometimes humming. Got it used so It'll be a new experience for me. Hope to have a good repair story soon.
Long story short, I accidentally put a screw through the speaker wire while closing the casing. ("Why isn't this screw going in? I'll just push harder.." lol)
Had to make a new route for the wire, since it was ~1cm shorter after the fix. Figured it out and the sound is perfect.
@Sicklyboy that looks like the exact model my dad uses! if his speaker ever goes out I'm glad to know it's replaceable.
Edit: I need to repair/replace a solenoid soon, its attached to a foot pedal that stops gas (Propane & Oxygen) from flowing, but it seems to be leaking now. And sometimes humming. Got it used so It'll be a new experience for me. Hope to have a good repair story soon.
Last edited by TheCasualties,
I did 2 things:
1. Modded a Wii pro sensor bar to be USB powered (powered by TV usb)
2. I printed 2 boxes and housed a SD card switcher + extension cable so that my Switch can swap between 3 SD cards without removing the sd card from the switch.
1. Modded a Wii pro sensor bar to be USB powered (powered by TV usb)
2. I printed 2 boxes and housed a SD card switcher + extension cable so that my Switch can swap between 3 SD cards without removing the sd card from the switch.
Whoa that's awesome! Can you make a post about how you did that? Would it work with an OG sensor bar? If it's not too much trouble
I've been trying to decide about getting a dolphin IR bar or not.
PS your 2nd mod is awesome too.
FYI, I can't find the exact part I ordered, pretty sure I got it from Digikey but I can't find an order confirmation email and I -really- CBA to search for the part right now. It's not a direct fit but it's "good enough". However I looked again today and while I can't vouch for the legitimacy of the website* this looks to be an exact replacement. Just have to desolder the old speaker (2 wires) and resolder the new one. Entire repair takes like 3 minutes. https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...-16a-1-1-4-mini-speaker-black-16-ohm--285-133
* = let's be real, it's 2020, e-commerce is so low risk, charge back through your CC company if it turns out to be shady. This ain't the 90's anymore.
Hah, yes that's true! Don't worry about finding the right part for me. I'm sure I could handle it. Really, I'd guess I could wire any mini speaker up as long as it has the same power requirements.
Hell I could probably add a speaker to the outside of the shell. Might help him hear it better too.
@TheCasualties
With the OG sensor bar:
Things needed:
1. Get a Variable USB supply, something like
https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/...t-module-intl-i142509269-s162584589.html?mp=1
2. a sensor bar extension (Optional but makes it cleaner)
3. Soldering iron
4. 1 Red and 1 black wire
5. Voltmeter
6. Soldering iron + soldering lead
7. Shrink tubes
Steps:
1. Insert USB device and connect the output voltage ports to the voltmeter
2. Adjust knob/settings until voltage is 7.5V
3. Cut the male end of the extension/cable of the sensor bar
4. Solder the positive end to the red cable, solder the negative end to the black cable
5. Put the shrink tubes onto each wire
6. Solder the positive output of the USB to the red and black gets negative
7. put the shrink tube on top of where each point of the sensor bar and use heat to shrink the tubes to cover the soldering point.
8. Test with the Wii/Wii U/Dolphin
I feel this is only worth it if you really need the range since there are 3rd party sensor bars that work well enough at a low distance. I did this because the pro sensor bar really has good range, while the default sensor bar has good enough range but needs more voltage than usual.
Hopefully, if you get the dolphin bar, you won't get unlucky like I did. My main PC works with it but Dolphin has/had this bug where it refuses to work with it on that PC alone.
With the OG sensor bar:
Things needed:
1. Get a Variable USB supply, something like
https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/...t-module-intl-i142509269-s162584589.html?mp=1
2. a sensor bar extension (Optional but makes it cleaner)
3. Soldering iron
4. 1 Red and 1 black wire
5. Voltmeter
6. Soldering iron + soldering lead
7. Shrink tubes
Steps:
1. Insert USB device and connect the output voltage ports to the voltmeter
2. Adjust knob/settings until voltage is 7.5V
3. Cut the male end of the extension/cable of the sensor bar
4. Solder the positive end to the red cable, solder the negative end to the black cable
5. Put the shrink tubes onto each wire
6. Solder the positive output of the USB to the red and black gets negative
7. put the shrink tube on top of where each point of the sensor bar and use heat to shrink the tubes to cover the soldering point.
8. Test with the Wii/Wii U/Dolphin
I feel this is only worth it if you really need the range since there are 3rd party sensor bars that work well enough at a low distance. I did this because the pro sensor bar really has good range, while the default sensor bar has good enough range but needs more voltage than usual.
Hopefully, if you get the dolphin bar, you won't get unlucky like I did. My main PC works with it but Dolphin has/had this bug where it refuses to work with it on that PC alone.
Last edited by fvig2001,
Replaced carpet with hardwood floors, two week job and looks as good as professionals.
Fixed toilet that wouldn’t flush. The flapper broke from the chain. You really don’t want pictures.
I recently got around to trying my hand at RetroBrighting. I had purchased a "Symphonic Green" Gamecube a few years ago that was extremely sun damaged and yellow. Got it for a good price (at least, compared to what they usually sell for) because of the yellowing. Still cost something like $450 if I remember correctly, though.
Went about doing a proper, very expensive setup and got distilled water and 34% mixture of food grade hydrogen peroxide (about $50 worth). Used a sous vide ($100) to heat the solution to ~50C and let the Gamecube soak in it for several days.
Good news is, it worked perfectly! Completely got rid of the yellowing without bleaching the console. Bad news is, the dye they used in this extremely limited edition console is itself very susceptible to sun damage, so although the yellowing is now completely gone, the parts of the console which we yellowed now show through the actual color they were underneath: extremely sun bleached, almost white.
So after all that effort and money, I still have a visibly discolored Gamecube. More than a little bit bummed about that.
Sucks even more because I dropped probably another $500+ on mods/accessories to get it up to snuff - GCLoader + 1TB SD card, GCHD Mk II, custom fan and housing, two Wavebirds, OEM memory cards, network adapter, and SP2SD.
And it still looks a bit shit. Gutted.
Went about doing a proper, very expensive setup and got distilled water and 34% mixture of food grade hydrogen peroxide (about $50 worth). Used a sous vide ($100) to heat the solution to ~50C and let the Gamecube soak in it for several days.
Good news is, it worked perfectly! Completely got rid of the yellowing without bleaching the console. Bad news is, the dye they used in this extremely limited edition console is itself very susceptible to sun damage, so although the yellowing is now completely gone, the parts of the console which we yellowed now show through the actual color they were underneath: extremely sun bleached, almost white.
So after all that effort and money, I still have a visibly discolored Gamecube. More than a little bit bummed about that.
Sucks even more because I dropped probably another $500+ on mods/accessories to get it up to snuff - GCLoader + 1TB SD card, GCHD Mk II, custom fan and housing, two Wavebirds, OEM memory cards, network adapter, and SP2SD.
And it still looks a bit shit. Gutted.
DMG Gameboy modding FINALLY DONE
I'll make another thread for game console restorations where I'll dump all of the pics I took of this thing but for the meantime I'll leave you all with my 4 minute tour of what's been done to it.
This looks great!
I bought a circuit sword lite from kite last year that I still haven't finished, I'll definitely do it now!
oof
I know that feeling of disappointment.
At least you got the experience now, thanks for sharing it.
Last edited by Ozito,
I'm in the process of jtagging another x360 (one i bought, it was cheap!)
Last edited by Deleted member 668561,
Done (mostly) repairing, restoring, and modding my GBC!
CFW'd two DSi and a PS Vita.... Vita is so pretty, I wish I'd discovered it earlier
A gamecube (DOL-001 PAL) with a gcloader with a 400GB microsd card and a battery holder for the rtc and settings to make life easier next time it needs changing. RS part 185-4750
Last edited by danwellby,
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