Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

malgamer

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New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.

TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.

Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision :)
hi , how your modded oled ? i 'm facing a problem boot to hekate everytime i off my oled. everytime i on my oled it automatic boot to ofw directly and need restart few time to enter hekate. how bout yours?
 

Ichigo1990

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switch oled hwfly
after apply tema and reboot not boot

blink cyan after that red solid and gone
no boot hekate menu
i try 10 time not work/not boot
 

OrganixXx

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Saturday Done 😎
 

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irvingoh999

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I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?
Hi, so I was installing an oled v3 chip (locked chip) and then this happened, the cpu shield touched the clk point. Now I can't boot ofw at all, black screen. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 

kerelenko

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switch oled hwfly
after apply tema and reboot not boot

blink cyan after that red solid and gone
no boot hekate menu
i try 10 time not work/not boot
Sthetix posted a new video explaining and showing the solution to this issue. Mainly, this issue is caused by the DAT0 adapter only connecting to the DAT0 point via friction. Reflowing the EMMC and anchoring the DAT0 adapter solves the issue. I also experience this on my OLED and the way I make sure it boots again is to force it to shut down and wait for 24hrs before turning it on again.

 
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gokuz

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Sthetix posted a new video explaining and showing the solution to this issue. Mainly, this issue is caused by the DAT0 adapter only connecting to the DAT0 point via friction. Reflowing the EMMC and anchoring the DAT0 adapter solves the issue. I also experience this on my OLED and the way I make sure it boots again is to force it to shut down and wait for 24hrs before turning it on again.



I disagree with this method, solder balls might touch if you're not careful. Better be safe than sorry.

To secure it, just add UV mask around the sides of the whole dat0 adapter.
 
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Hoseccan

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Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?
 

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TheUnknownOne

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Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?

Get rid of that junk wire. Undo everything and see if the problem is still there.

If it is, reflow the ALJ chip to see if that fixes it.
 
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malgamer

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Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?
try flash the modchip firmware to 0.62. try check your sp1 and sp2 cable in diode mode. black to the ground and red to green point and blue point.
 

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Hoseccan

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Flashing on 0.62 doesn't help. I disconnected cpu cable and saw blinking red-green led. Would be hwfly work without sp1 and sp2 cap? Maybe one of them was fried
 

zal16

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Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?

you said the modchip is turning on without pressing the power button.

Check the 3.3v line, maybe you soldered at wrong point at switch board.

You should solder it at the red point marked on image (on the capacitors)
 

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rezendes

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De9ed did my Oled for me. Very fast, great communication, and reasonable prices. If you see some of my earlier posts, you will notice I tried to do an HWFLY lite in Oled (before the new Oled specific version) and botched it pretty bad. De9ed helped me out and I have a wonderful Oled with Oled chip running beautifully.
Was he able to resurrect the same switch that you had trouble with the install on? I am having the same exact BAD0010D error and when I remove the chip my switch won't do anything.
 

rezendes

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De9ed did my Oled for me. Very fast, great communication, and reasonable prices. If you see some of my earlier posts, you will notice I tried to do an HWFLY lite in Oled (before the new Oled specific version) and botched it pretty bad. De9ed helped me out and I have a wonderful Oled with Oled chip running beautifully.
accidental double post
 

urherenow

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The 'point' is a bit of trace going to a via, which ends up underneath the eMMC itself. If this trace is damaged, or the via is damaged, or if either is bridged to the surround ground plane, then there will be no communication possible between cpu and emmc, so bootrom can't execute the bct. Either the screen will remain off or show purple.
actually, I think this is what I did to the first OLED that I bricked. I broke the via. Is this something you have the skills to repair by running a wire from that trace, to the emmc? I Assume it would involve removing and re-balling the emmc (something I really don't think I can handle myself).
 

doom95

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If the trace for clk is still there then it's quite easy. If not, the tegra must also be lifted and reballed to restore the trace.
 

urherenow

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If the trace for clk is still there then it's quite easy. If not, the tegra must also be lifted and reballed to restore the trace.
The trace is there. If you recall, I had a heck of a time with the solder mask (and really crappy uv light) on top of bad joints, and I ended up going too deep and breaking the via. If I go back and clean that pad really good, you can actually see a hole in the center of it. reaaaallly tiny hole...It can't be done without removing and re-flowing the emmc, can it? It would be neat, if I could revive it myself...
 

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