Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[Quezacotl]

Did you have your iron too hot? its suggested not to have your iron hotter than 300c when soldering to the board.

My iron is always 450C, and no problems. I think those accidents are by heating too long or too little.

 

[Shadow_The_Hedgehog82]

Did you have your iron too hot? its suggested not to have your iron hotter than 300c when soldering to the board.

i use 360 which is always fine, i couldn't iamagine working with an iron at 300 degrees sounds like itd be impossible , i only messed it up because i forgot that point and partly reassembled so was trying to solder that without taking the board back out of the case because im dumb lol

 

[HelloShitty]

My iron is always 450C, and no problems. I think those accidents are by heating too long or too little.

Isn't that too much for thinner PCBs and small components?
I usually use mine at 360ºC ~ 370ºC and is enough for pretty much everything

i use 360 which is always fine, i couldn't iamagine working with an iron at 300 degrees sounds like itd be impossible , i only messed it up because i forgot that point and partly reassembled so was trying to solder that without taking the board back out of the case because im dumb lol

Yeah, same here! About the temps, I mean!

 

[OrganixXx]

Isn't that too much for thinner PCBs and small components?
I usually use mine at 360ºC ~ 370ºC and is enough for pretty much everything



Yeah, same here! About the temps, I mean!

It's always a question of time. If you are fast at soldering, there is not problem. If you hold it there for while, it's not good. Typically it's not a problem solder this points with a chisel or a I-tip if you are experienced.

 

[HelloShitty]

It's always a question of time. If you are fast at soldering, there is not problem. If you hold it there for while, it's not good. Typically it's not a problem solder this points with a chisel or a I-tip if you are experienced.

Yes, but you're taking risks that are not needed I guess. If you don't have enough experience or don't practice a bit, it's not higher temps that gonna get you done. If you have little experience, then you likely won't need those temps, I guess. Just an opinion. I only go 400ºC or so when there are bigger components with metal surfaces or so.

 

[doom95]

400-450° is idiotic. you burn your flux way too quick. it needs time to properly activate.
instead of using >100° too much as a heat buffer, get an iron where temperature is measured close to the tip with active power response so temps don't drop (as much) when transferring heat.

 

[OrganixXx]

Typically 370 °C are good for the most things. I just wanted to say that experience and soldering time are more important than temperature. You can mess up even with the right temperature if you have no idea what you are doing. This is not a job for people who have never held a soldering iron in their hands.

 

[HelloShitty]

Typically 370 °C are good for the most things. I just wanted to say that experience and soldering time are more important than temperature. You can mess up even with the right temperature if you have no idea what you are doing. This is not a job for people who have never held a soldering iron in their hands.

Absolutely, but without the proper experience, no temperature will help you! It's a matter of finding the sweet spot and knowing (or at least having an idea) of max temps the components we are working with, can withstand. Datasheets can help in extreme situations

 

[Shadow_The_Hedgehog82]

0402(metric) 01005(imp)
EDIT: 0603(metric) 0201(imp) feels too big, but it's manageable.
I really hate that there's two measurement systems.

4k7 0201 resistor

it's the emmc clock line, and breaking that indeed results in purple screen

0402 is too big I managed to get it attached but had to put it sideways and then use 0.1mm wires to attach one end of it so i think the size is 0201? Device boots with that replaced.

Chip doesn't work though because I messed up the top ribbon cable. If anyone has the oled chip could you check which points on the ribbon correspond to what pads on the chip please. theres a bunch of test pads so I assume it can be wired up using those

 

[Quezacotl]

0402 is too big I managed to get it attached but had to put it sideways and then use 0.1mm wires to attach one end of it so i think the size is 0201? Device boots with that replaced.

Chip doesn't work though because I messed up the top ribbon cable. If anyone has the oled chip could you check which points on the ribbon correspond to what pads on the chip please. theres a bunch of test pads so I assume it can be wired up using those

I compared it with my 0603 chips and seemed it was definitely one size smaller. Apparently even one more. And which is confusing, 0201 is present on both units.

https://github.com/sthetix/OLED-DIAGRAM
There you can find the pinouts for cables.

 

[Shadow_The_Hedgehog82]

I compared it with my 0603 chips and seemed it was definitely one size smaller. Apparently even one more. And which is confusing, 0201 is present on both units.

https://github.com/sthetix/OLED-DIAGRAM
There you can find the pinouts for cables.

Thanks that github doesn't have this board though. The guy who made it doesn't want to buy one of the oled chips for some reason i asked him about them on twitter previously.

I managed to figure it out anyway here is a picture for the wiring incase anyone else messes up their ribbon cable

 

[ViOTeK]

Regarding soldering temperatures; I picked up one of the new Aixun T3B soldering stations with the T115 handle and various tips, and compared to the T12 unit I had it's incredibly quick to heat, keeps temperature stable, and the tips are much, much smaller. I've never been able to work with such low temps this well. 300C is plenty for most, and solder melts fast even at 280C. I wouldn't go over 350 at any point with this on this install job now. Also note that crappy solder takes more heat to melt, use good product.

 

[Mocah]

Thanks for the teardown!

 

[gokuz]

Regarding soldering temperatures; I picked up one of the new Aixun T3B soldering stations with the T115 handle and various tips, and compared to the T12 unit I had it's incredibly quick to heat, keeps temperature stable, and the tips are much, much smaller. I've never been able to work with such low temps this well. 300C is plenty for most, and solder melts fast even at 280C. I wouldn't go over 350 at any point with this on this install job now. Also note that crappy solder takes more heat to melt, use good product.

Its not about the tip, more so about the wattage it can pump out. You can use T12 tips on JBC clones too.

Aixun is a JBC clone that uses 200W.
Most T12 clones are 72W only.

Don't forget, JBC clones are expensive compared to T12 clones. Almost 5X the price.

 

[ViOTeK]

The T3B station I picked up is 96w and the B version only supports the T210 or T115 handles. I was considering getting a T3A as well just because it does indeed support a wider variety of, albeit larger, handle and tip combinations. That said, the T115 tips feel very appropriately sized when working under a microscope, but are indeed quite expensive, even compared to the T210 versions. I will probably pick up the T210 handle just because of that. I'm sure some pro will chime in and call it garbage but, for a hobbiest, it was much cheaper then a real JBC station, and so far has performed amazingly well.

 

[gokuz]

The T3B station I picked up is 96w and the B version only supports the T210 or T115 handles. I was considering getting a T3A as well just because it does indeed support a wider variety of, albeit larger, handle and tip combinations. That said, the T115 tips feel very appropriately sized when working under a microscope, but are indeed quite expensive, even compared to the T210 versions. I will probably pick up the T210 handle just because of that. I'm sure some pro will chime in and call it garbage but, for a hobbiest, it was much cheaper then a real JBC station, and so far has performed amazingly well.

JBC clones are definitely the better irons/tips in the market but its prices are high for common hobbyist. TS100/T12 are sufficient for console modding tbh. I'd argue getting a microscope from the price difference is a better choice.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?

 

[gokuz]

I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?

Have a tweezer on your right hand and alcohol dipped cotton swab on your left. Slowly scrape it and clean it right away. Can't go wrong this way.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Have a tweezer on your right hand and alcohol dipped cotton swab on your left. Slowly scrape it and clean it right away. Can't go wrong this way.

I've modded a couple OLED's already, what I meant was I haven't screwed up any of them yet. I was just wondering what happens if you mess up that point.

I've ordered one of those grinding pens for doing repairs and this will likely be a much better way to expose that CLK point.

 

[doom95]

I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?

The 'point' is a bit of trace going to a via, which ends up underneath the eMMC itself. If this trace is damaged, or the via is damaged, or if either is bridged to the surround ground plane, then there will be no communication possible between cpu and emmc, so bootrom can't execute the bct. Either the screen will remain off or show purple.