Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[doom95]

I installed an Sx core (with Spacecraft 0.2.0 burned) on my OLED switch, but I am not able to backup the NAND (and not start OFW/CFW).
The following is happening: As soon as I turn on the console and enter Hekate, I can access the eMMC information (on the console info tab), but after about 30-50 seconds, an error appears saying that the eMMC is working in slow mode, hence when I try to access the console info again, an error message appears "eMMC init fail". When I try to restart the console, I can no longer enter into Hekate and the SX core light is cyan (not green) and I can only access Hekate again if I reinsert the battery connector.

If I try to back up the eMMC (when it is recognized), it only goes up to 3-5% and gives the same error of working in slow mode and eventually "eMMC init fail" also appears.
DAT0 adapter resistance is about 740-760 ohms

Sounds like signal integrity issues. The OLED + sx core is a poor combination. Did you cut off the emmc plug part? How long are your wires?

 

[zal16]

Sounds like signal integrity issues. The OLED + sx core is a poor combination. Did you cut off the emmc plug part? How long are your wires?

I don't cut the plug part, the DAT0 wire is about 10cm, the others, I cut it as short as possible

 

[doom95]

Make DAT0 also as short as you can. Don't boot into HOS while you have signal integrity issues as it is likely to corrupt your NAND before you have a backup.

 

[zal16]

(Double-post)

 

[zal16]

Make DAT0 also as short as you can. Don't boot into HOS while you have signal integrity issues as it is likely to corrupt your NAND before you have a backup.

In fact, with the short time that eMMC was working, I managed to back up the most important partitions (boot0/1, prodinfo and prodinfof) and rescued the BIS Keys via Lockpick.
I will try to improve my wiring.
Hope I didn't fuck up my eMMC.

 

[zal16]

The 10 - 50 ohm resistor attached on DAT0 line is really necessary?

 

[yee]

Installer set up the OLED chip for me yesterday. Noticed that the left two solder points are using what appears to be sleeveless/bare wires. Is this going to be an issue?

The Switch itself works fine and I'm pleased overall. Glitches within 5 seconds and works without a hitch. A bit of a bug when shutting down though where it goes back into Hekate so I have to shut it down through there.

P.S. Does anyone know that that pink gunk is? Thermal paste to transfer heat from the heatpipe to the metal shield on top?

 

[de9ed]

View attachment 298144

Installer set up the OLED chip for me yesterday. Noticed that the left two solder points are using what appears to be sleeveless/bare wires. Is this going to be an issue?

The Switch itself works fine and I'm pleased overall. Glitches within 5 seconds and works without a hitch. A bit of a bug when shutting down though where it goes back into Hekate so I have to shut it down through there.

P.S. Does anyone know that that pink gunk is? Thermal paste to transfer heat from the heatpipe to the metal shield on top?

those are enamel wires, and they are ok.

setup autohosoff from Hekate setting

the pink gunk is thermal paste from heat pipe to the metal shield

 

[zal16]

Make DAT0 also as short as you can. Don't boot into HOS while you have signal integrity issues as it is likely to corrupt your NAND before you have a backup.

I redid the wiring, but now the sx core flashes magenta for 3-5 seconds and then turns cyan (green+blue led) and the console boots OFW normally.

I believe I have to reset the training (yellow light), but I don't know how to do that

 

[doom95]

depends on modchip firmware, what are you running?
white is generally emmc <--> fpga issue

 

[zal16]

depends on modchip firmware, what are you running?
white is generally emmc <--> fpga issue

I'm running vanilla spacecraft 0.2

 

[doom95]

try if you can access the emmc over USB; poweroff the switch, plug in the USB, connect over putty to the COM port that appears, hit enter on the prompt, then press 'e' (for erase payload) and 'p' (for program payload), that'll tell you if modchip can communicate with the emmc

 

[zal16]

try if you can access the emmc over USB; poweroff the switch, plug in the USB, connect over putty to the COM port that appears, hit enter on the prompt, then press 'e' (for erase payload) and 'p' (for program payload), that'll tell you if modchip can communicate with the emmc

Sorry, i'm not understanding. You can explan better?

Which USB port are you talking about? Console? Modchip?

Prompt? Where?

 

[doom95]

modchip usb. prompt after opening USB connection in putty

 

[zal16]

modchip usb. prompt after opening USB connection in putty

Now I understand, PuTTY is a program.

Is any pre-configuration required?

What will the program say if the modchip sucefully communicate with emmc?
What if I can't communicate?

sorry for the many questions

 

[doom95]

it'll tell you in clear English, very easy to use

 

[zal16]

I need to remove the battery connector?

 

[zal16]

it'll tell you in clear English, very easy to use

BAD00110?
What does this mean?

 

[Mirivedan]

New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.

TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.

Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision

i didnt receive the chip yet but how do you solder the part in pic 8 ?

 

[doom95]

I need to remove the battery connector?

Modchip can't communicate with eMMC. Check your dat0, cmd and clk points (measure voltage drop in diode mode on DMM). Possibly your 3v3 but that's most likely good.