Switch OLED no longer powers on after accidental short

[rs1n]

I was installing a Picofly into an OLED unit and didn't notice that I had accidentally shorted the 3.3V to the super tiny cap to the bottom left of the 3.3V caps. I was in a rush and skipped checking the connection in diode mode (stupid of me, as I always check all my connections in the prior 50 or so previous times -- except this one time). The Switch didn't boot. I proceeded to troubleshoot and removed the short. All diode readings on the Picofly points are in their expected ranges now. However, even with everything returned to stock, the Switch won't boot. With power plugged in, it draws 0.5A at 15V (with battery) and 0.028A (without battery). I checked all the caps around the M92 and BQ chips and there were no shorts. USB-C port fuse is intact. Also no shorts in the caps around the two MAX chips on either side of the board. Likewise with the P13 chip. I'm left wondering if I should blindly change out the M92 and/or BQ. Or did I fry the APU and should just cut my losses?

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

When you short the voltage lines, the APU doesn't take any beating so my guess is that it will be fine.
If you're fine with removing chips like the M92, just remove it so see if your short is gone.
Afaik, the BQ chips receives and supplies voltage to the M92 so the M92 is likely to go first.

 

[aoimatsuri]

"Accidental"
Uhh..

Anyways. NorthRidgeFix has some good Nintendo repair videos

 

[rs1n]

"Accidental"
Uhh..

Anyways. NorthRidgeFix has some good Nintendo repair videos

Yeah, I left my wire just a tad too long (I don't use the flex cables other than the CPU), so when I soldered it to the 3.3V point, it extended just enough to touch the tiny cap, and the one time I just assumed all was good turned out for the worst

Post automatically merged: Jul 5, 2025

When you short the voltage lines, the APU doesn't take any beating so my guess is that it will be fine.
If you're fine with removing chips like the M92, just remove it so see if your short is gone.
Afaik, the BQ chips receives and supplies voltage to the M92 so the M92 is likely to go first.

I ended up doing a blind M92 replacement, and it didn't resolve anything. Same readings (15V 0.5A charge with battery, 15V 0.03A without). No shorts, but the original didn't have any shorts to ground anyway. I'll probably just put this on hold until I can get more info on what that short may have damaged.

 

[everlast6996]

Yeah, I left my wire just a tad too long (I don't use the flex cables other than the CPU), so when I soldered it to the 3.3V point, it extended just enough to touch the tiny cap, and the one time I just assumed all was good turned out for the worst

Post automatically merged: Jul 5, 2025

I ended up doing a blind M92 replacement, and it didn't resolve anything. Same readings (15V 0.5A charge with battery, 15V 0.03A without). No shorts, but the original didn't have any shorts to ground anyway. I'll probably just put this on hold until I can get more info on what that short may have damaged.

Hello did you ever get it going i did the same thing thx