Picofly AIO Thread

[ikynx]

Ah, the dreaded DAT0 adapter issue, right?

yeah very probably. I think I need to get it "kamikaze" fixed...

 

[impeeza]

Ah, the dreaded DAT0 adapter issue, right?

As far I know, yes, that should be the issue.

 

[Inaki]

damn it. OLED switch modded 2 years ago (with a picofly flashed waveshare RP2040-tiny) that worked flawlessly until now. Powered it off a couple of days ago, and now on power up I get the nintendo logo and the dreaded yellow =* (DAT0) error code.

must have been during my couple intense metroid dread sessions >.<

Ah, the dreaded DAT0 adapter issue, right?

I have modded a few OLEDs myself with regular DAT0 installs, none of them have failed...
Today or tomorrow I will be doing another OLED mod, for the first time with the kamikaze DAT0 method. But again, a properly done regular DAT0 shouldn't fail...

 

[Nephiel]

I have modded a few OLEDs myself with regular DAT0 installs, none of them have failed...
Today or tomorrow I will be doing another OLED mod, for the first time with the kamikaze DAT0 method. But again, a properly done regular DAT0 shouldn't fail...

Yeah, the problem is, even when done right, the contact point is still a raw solder ball, and so, prone to oxidation.

 

[LuigiGad]

I have modded a few OLEDs myself with regular DAT0 installs, none of them have failed...
Today or tomorrow I will be doing another OLED mod, for the first time with the kamikaze DAT0 method. But again, a properly done regular DAT0 shouldn't fail...

the rest of my idea, with an intensive session maybe in summer, the temperatures reached below the emmc cause the spheres that push the adapter to expand, then upon shutdown the shrinkage of the small sphere causes the connection to be lost and you notice it upon rebooting.

 

[ikynx]

I have modded a few OLEDs myself with regular DAT0 installs, none of them have failed...
Today or tomorrow I will be doing another OLED mod, for the first time with the kamikaze DAT0 method. But again, a properly done regular DAT0 shouldn't fail...

it didn't fail for a couple of years.

the rest of my idea, with an intensive session maybe in summer, the temperatures reached below the emmc cause the spheres that push the adapter to expand, then upon shutdown the shrinkage of the small sphere causes the connection to be lost and you notice it upon rebooting.

so just thinking out loud : would actually booting to OFW, and running an intensive game to "heat" up the components back into place, maybe do the trick? (at least temporarily)

 

[impeeza]

it didn't fail for a couple of years.

so just thinking out loud : would actually booting to OFW, and running an intensive game to "heat" up the components back into place, maybe do the trick? (at least temporarily)

no, heating by play will only give you 80°c or so max, for reseat a weld spot you need 200 or more

 

[ikynx]

no, heating by play will only give you 80°c or so max, for reseat a weld spot you need 200 or more

Well well well...
tonight I'll teach you guys a french language idiom: "Avoir le cul bordé de nouilles", which litterally translates to "Have your ass lined with noodles" (be extremely lucky).

Booted up Sonic Mania in OFW, ran level1, put an elastic band between both joysticks, and let the device running in my padded travel case, pretty much covering vents so it heats up quickly. 10min in, powered off, powered on, see the chip LEDs flickering for quite some time (I think it's the relearning process when it hasn't had to glitch in a while). Black screen. Powered on again, and GLITCH. Straight to Hetake.

nb: Hetake gives me 40°C so it's not like it needed to be boiling hot to work apparently...

nb2: i'll probably get it kamikaze fixed and install revised anyway, but it's less of an immediate burden.

nb3: conclusion : I encourage everybody having this kind of issue to try what I did.

 

[LuigiGad]

Bene, bene, bene...
stasera vi insegnerò un modo di dire in lingua francese: "Avoir le cul bordé de nouilles", che letteralmente si traduce in "Fatti foderare il di noodles" (sii estremamente fortunato).

Ho avviato Sonic Mania in OFW, ho eseguito il livello 1, ho messo un elastico tra entrambi i joystick e ho lasciato che il dispositivo funzionasse nella mia custodia da viaggio imbottita, coprendo praticamente le prese d'aria in modo che si riscaldasse rapidamente. 10 minuti, spento, acceso, vedere i LED del chip lampeggiare per un bel po' di tempo (penso che sia il processo di riapprendimento quando non ha dovuto avere problemi da un po'). Schermo nero. Riacceso e GLITCH. Dritto a Hetake.

nb: Hetake mi dà 40°C quindi non è che a quanto pare dovesse essere bollente per funzionare...

NB2: Probabilmente lo farò riparare Kamikaze e installerò comunque rivisto, ma è meno un onere immediato.

NB3: Conclusione: Incoraggio tutti coloro che hanno questo tipo di problema a provare quello che ho fatto io.

I had many OLEDs in the past that worked with an adapter that would start correctly or give a DAT0 error depending on how you shook them. There's no point beating around the bush, now to work with OLEDs the kamikaze is imperative.

 

[Inaki]

I had many OLEDs in the past that worked with an adapter that would start correctly or give a DAT0 error depending on how you shook them. There's no point beating around the bush, now to work with OLEDs the kamikaze is imperative.

Honestly, imperative ? come on... even installers who have installed a few dozens of OLED modchips agree that proper dat0 flexpcb install is just fine...

 

[Nephiel]

No matter how many bicycle mechanics agree rim brakes are just fine, I would still want disc brakes on mine

 

[impeeza]

No matter how many bicycle mechanics agree rim brakes are just fine, I would still want disc brakes on mine

Everyone is entitled to his opinion

 

[ikynx]

Honestly, imperative ? come on... even installers who have installed a few dozens of OLED modchips agree that proper dat0 flexpcb install is just fine...

in my case, I honestly wonder what might have gone wrong since I was there when the modder clearly soldered the adapter into place to keep it from moving.

 

[Inaki]

I have modded a few OLEDs myself with regular DAT0 installs, none of them have failed...
Today or tomorrow I will be doing another OLED mod, for the first time with the kamikaze DAT0 method. But again, a properly done regular DAT0 shouldn't fail...

Ok, I did my first kamikaze OLED install. It took more than expected ( and I expected it would take quite a bit of time ). It worked at first try ( did the whole install with the new-ish -rounded corners - picofly ). The DAT0 took way more time because I didn't use a grinding pen/sharp point, I used a regular pcb track fixing sharp point but that is like making a tunnel with a single chisel... the thing is you scratch and scratch and scratch... but you can't just go faster because you don't see the layer removing yet and you don't want to go faster and suddenly scratch too much... anyway, I will buy such a grinding "pen". I would still do and advice doing this manually, no electric drill or alike, even if they are those really small ones used for nail polishing etc. Go manual and "feel" what you do along the whole process...

https://imgur.com/gallery/first-dat0-with-kamikaze-method-switch-oled-modchip-install-2L3B6ii

Yes, it could be a bit better aesthetically speaking, but it works just fine. I did all points in this side of the board and made the wires 2cms max. ( well, D/CLK, GND and 3v3 are maybe 2-3cms and the others 1.5cms max. ). It glitches in 1-2 seconds. I also replaced the back plate with a metallic one ( but still used the original stand flap cover because even if the replacement comes with its own flap cover stand it doesn't have the logo, since the original flap cover stand is also metallic, that way I keep the logo and looks ) so this is now an "all metal" Switch OLED, so to say.

Post automatically merged: Jul 13, 2025

in my case, I honestly wonder what might have gone wrong since I was there when the modder clearly soldered the adapter into place to keep it from moving.

it is not just anchoring it, actually a single point of anchor, wide enough, should be just fine. My preferred DAT0 flexPCB is the black "L" shaped type or single corner one. The thing is, as I say in my guide ( https://imgur.com/gallery/switch-oled-hw-fly-v3-modchip-install-uSkdNRr#vfsos8L ), you first put the DAT0 flexPCB and solder it for a first time but then you reheat the solder and while the tin is molten and the flexPCB loose, you apply pressure to the flexPCB towards the eMMC chip ( with the tweezers tip pressing from the outer/opposite flexPCB border ) and while still applying this pressure ( and, no need to say, don't be a beast here, be gentle, just a bit of pressure ) you remove the soldering iron and let the tin cool/solidify. The flexPCB may even be in an "arched state" because of this pressure.

 

[LuigiGad]

Honestly, imperative ? come on... even installers who have installed a few dozens of OLED modchips agree that proper dat0 flexpcb install is just fine...

I've installed a ton of adapters, which is why I'm telling you that anyone who works on OLEDs MUST act like a kamikaze for their own peace of mind and the customer's peace of mind.

 

[Inaki]

I've installed a ton of adapters, which is why I'm telling you that anyone who works on OLEDs MUST act like a kamikaze for their own peace of mind and the customer's peace of mind.

I have only done 6 OLEDs, one of them kamikaze, but the other 5 have not failed ( done doing what I said in that post ) for... around or a bit more than 3 years now. And they seem they wont be failing

EDIT: requoting myself:

it is not just anchoring it, actually a single point of anchor, wide enough, should be just fine. My preferred DAT0 flexPCB is the black "L" shaped type or single corner one. The thing is, as I say in my guide ( https://imgur.com/gallery/switch-oled-hw-fly-v3-modchip-install-uSkdNRr#vfsos8L ), you first put the DAT0 flexPCB and solder it for a first time but then you reheat the solder and while the tin is molten and the flexPCB loose, you apply pressure to the flexPCB towards the eMMC chip ( with the tweezers tip pressing from the outer/opposite flexPCB border ) and while still applying this pressure ( and, no need to say, don't be a beast here, be gentle, just a bit of pressure ) you remove the soldering iron and let the tin cool/solidify. The flexPCB may even be in an "arched state" because of this pressure.

 

[Endracion]

I've been using FW 2.75 for a good long time for my installs, it's unclear what changed but I see that the latest version is 2.80; does it glitch faster or better or something?

 

[Console-Center]

I've been using FW 2.75 for a good long time for my installs, it's unclear what changed but I see that the latest version is 2.80; does it glitch faster or better or something?

They fixed a few bugs

 

[chronoss]

Hi !!!
I have some OLEDs that sometimes when i reboot, the console boots in official, I have to unsolder the DAT0 point on the chip and reattach it again to boot on the chip. Is there a way to fix it permanently ?

 

[impeeza]

Hi !!!
I have some OLEDs that sometimes when i reboot, the console boots in official, I have to unsolder the DAT0 point on the chip and reattach it again to boot on the chip. Is there a way to fix it permanently ?

Desoldering the chip and using a sandwich adapter, or kamikazee method, those are the only method i know make fixed connections.