Picofly AIO Thread

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Help My mariko Switch OLED Stopped booting to hekate, please what advice could you deliver ?
In almost all cases, when an OLED stops starting Hekate it is because it has lost the Dat0 contact due to the adapter no longer in place. You need to find someone who converts you to Permanent DAT. maybe it reports the bright feedback of the modchip to be sure of the cause.
 
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In almost all cases, when an OLED stops starting Hekate it is because it has lost the Dat0 contact due to the adapter no longer in place. You need to find someone who converts you to Permanent DAT. maybe it reports the bright feedback of the modchip to be sure of the cause.
Yeah that's what everyone has been telling me that the DAT0 is the issue but i don't know how to fix it from here in Nigeria .
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Make someone experimented to look into the modchip wiring and test how is working
Alright thanks I'll get someone to look it up
 
Yeah that's what everyone has been telling me that the DAT0 is the issue but i don't know how to fix it from here in Nigeria .
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Alright thanks I'll get someone to look it up

You problem is most likely dat0, as it does get loose overtime, obviously best is to get a kamikaze dat0 done.
 
Okay how is it done please ?

kamikaze is going deep on the dat0 point on the third layer and exposing the dat0 point, soldering a wire to it making it permanent. If your chip used the 4 anchor points for dat0 it can explain why your stop glitching, it is bound to stop, as it get loose. What chip you have do you know?
 
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help me wth failed oled modding

i modded my switch with kamikazi method first i accidently cut the dat0 trace the console didn't boot at all just black screen i manage to put small solder blob to bridge the cut trace and checked in diode mode to make sure its not shorted the console boots i soldered i wire to the ball and confirm it still boots i put solder mask and rechecked it still boots then i installed a picofly first it booted to hekate but when i checked emmc info it gives error emmc running in slow mode 0mb/s this might means a hardware issue then failed to int storage
when i try to take back up it gives failed to inti storage
no boot from hekate when i disconnect both ribbon cables off the Pico fly board "still connected to to cpu" it gives me purple screen
checked the resistor close to kamikaze point in resistance mode it gives 4.5 or 4.7k as i remember
i also went to pro cell phones repair technician to check the trace he did it and repair the trace but same issue boots to hekate with failed to int emmc
any suggestion ? did my emmc dead ? i don't have a back up
plz any suggestion may help
 
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help me wth failed oled modding

i modded my switch with kamikazi method first i accidently cut the dat0 trace the console didn't boot at all just black screen i manage to put small solder blob to bridge the cut trace and checked in diode mode to make sure its not shorted the console boots i soldered i wire to the ball and confirm it still boots i put solder mask and rechecked it still boots then i installed a picofly first it booted to hekate but when i checked emmc info it gives error emmc running in slow mode 0mb/s this might means a hardware issue then failed to int storage
when i try to take back up it gives failed to inti storage
no boot from hekate when i disconnect both ribbon cables off the Pico fly board "still connected to to cpu" it gives me purple screen
checked the resistor close to kamikaze point in resistance mode it gives 4.5 or 4.7k as i remember
i also went to pro cell phones repair technician to check the trace he did it and repair the trace but same issue boots to hekate with failed to int emmc
any suggestion ? did my emmc dead ? i don't have a back up
plz any suggestion may help
The guide explains this.
Does your chip contain the 100ohm resistors on the dat0 and cmd lines on the chip?
 
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The guide explains this.
Does your chip contain the 100ohm resistors on the dat0 and cmd lines on the chip?
I don't know . How to check this ? I will send a photo of the chip when i arrive home
I soldered the jumper wire from dat0 via kamikaze point directly to the picofly board
Its one of those boards off AliExpress i watch many YouTube guides no mention of adding resistors
 
Last edited by dodo136,
I don't know . How to check this ? I will send a photo of the chip when i arrive home
I soldered the jumper wire from dat0 via kamikaze point directly to the picofly board
Its one of those boards off AliExpress i watch many YouTube guides no mention of adding resistors
That is why you should not follow YT videos, instead read guides, on this thread you are explained why you need to check values for resistors and sometimes add or remove them
 
Hello!

Thanks in advance for any help!

I've a V1 patched Switch with the broken eMMC, because I'm getting error 2002-3580, so I decided to install a picofly rp2040 Plus off from AliExpress so I can do a backup of the eMMC and replace it with a new one.

Got the new eMMC and the picofly rp2040 plus, but the eMMC fails to do the user partition before entering slow mode.

I got boot0 boot1 prod.keys prodinfo and a partial backup rawnand.bin with 1gb of user partition

But the new eMMC won't boot with my picofly, I updated the firmware to 2.80 because I read that probably lower versions had problems but still gives me, *=*.

Bought a new rp2040 plus thinking it could be the board but still, it won't boot.

It does boot fine with my old eMMC, but it just wont on the new eMMC.

Could be a defective eMMC or that it's not trained or compatible with my eMMC?
 

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Is it possible to improve glitch timings with the RP2040?
Most OLEDs I do have near instant/immediate glitch. But, the occasional one in a dozen will have very bad glitch times. 20+ pulses easily before it glitches. Any fix to that?
 
Hello!

Thanks in advance for any help!

I've a V1 patched Switch with the broken eMMC, because I'm getting error 2002-3580, so I decided to install a picofly rp2040 Plus off from AliExpress so I can do a backup of the eMMC and replace it with a new one.

Got the new eMMC and the picofly rp2040 plus, but the eMMC fails to do the user partition before entering slow mode.

I got boot0 boot1 prod.keys prodinfo and a partial backup rawnand.bin with 1gb of user partition

But the new eMMC won't boot with my picofly, I updated the firmware to 2.80 because I read that probably lower versions had problems but still gives me, *=*.

Bought a new rp2040 plus thinking it could be the board but still, it won't boot.

It does boot fine with my old eMMC, but it just wont on the new eMMC.

Could be a defective eMMC or that it's not trained or compatible with my eMMC?


plug in the demaged emmc. when you are in hekate swap in the new emmc and reload the hekate UI(do not restart the console)
 
Is it possible to improve glitch timings with the RP2040?
Most OLEDs I do have near instant/immediate glitch. But, the occasional one in a dozen will have very bad glitch times. 20+ pulses easily before it glitches. Any fix to that?
Isn't this just the nature of things. As when you do a mod, wire length or solder thickness will vary, which means resistance will vary aswell. So not everyone install is going to behave exactly the same.
In general though, trying to keep wires a short as possible is recommended.
 
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Is it possible to improve glitch timings with the RP2040?
Most OLEDs I do have near instant/immediate glitch. But, the occasional one in a dozen will have very bad glitch times. 20+ pulses easily before it glitches. Any fix to that?
Isn't this just the nature of things. As when you do a mod, wire length or solder thickness will vary, which means resistance will vary aswell. So not everyone install is going to behave exactly the same.
In general though, trying to keep wires a short as possible is recommended.
Wasn't really utilizing so much in way of wires though. Majority of points are all via flex cable, only wires are dat0 and reset. And those are exceptionally short from the topside of the board.
 
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Is it possible to improve glitch timings with the RP2040?
Most OLEDs I do have near instant/immediate glitch. But, the occasional one in a dozen will have very bad glitch times. 20+ pulses easily before it glitches. Any fix to that?

Wasn't really utilizing so much in way of wires though. Majority of points are all via flex cable, only wires are dat0 and reset. And those are exceptionally short from the topside of the board.
There will still be miniscule differences between each install so my bet would be that’s the reason. If someone has a better explanation I would gladly like to learn
 
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damn it. OLED switch modded 2 years ago (with a picofly flashed waveshare RP2040-tiny) that worked flawlessly until now. Powered it off a couple of days ago, and now on power up I get the nintendo logo and the dreaded yellow =* (DAT0) error code.

must have been during my couple intense metroid dread sessions >.<
 
Last edited by ikynx,
damn it. OLED switch modded 2 years ago (with a picofly flashed waveshare RP2040-tiny) that worked flawlessly until now. Powered it off a couple of days ago, and now on power up I get the nintendo logo and the dreaded yellow =* (DAT0) error code.

must have been during my couple intense metroid dread sessions >.<
Ah, the dreaded DAT0 adapter issue, right?
 

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