Picofly AIO Thread

[MyRightHand]

I got a xkw5*** switch (v2). Any updates on hacking without modchip yet? If not, anybody know a guy?

 

[pbanj]

I got a xkw5*** switch (v2). Any updates on hacking without modchip yet? If not, anybody know a guy?

i doubt we will see anything not needing a mod chip. if it wasnt for nvidia fucking up, FG wouldnt exist.

as for knowing a guy, i know a sandwich

 

[MyRightHand]

i doubt we will see anything not needing a mod chip. if it wasnt for nvidia fucking up, FG wouldnt exist.

as for knowing a guy, i know a sandwich

well sheeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiit. wait what did nvidia do?

 

[pbanj]

well sheeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiit. wait what did nvidia do?

​

Fusée Gelée is taking advantage of a flaw in the tegra soc. it's why they put out the V2. it needed a hardware rev to fix.

 

[Ikaruga007]

well sheeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiit. wait what did nvidia do?

They sold Nintendo a Tegra X1 that basically was the same they used in their shield tablets and as such it had a Debug Mode, that's triggered by short circuiting the switch with paper clips on the right joycon rails basically. You wouldn't notice it, cause the screen would remain dark but the unit opens up entirely in this debug state, so when you connect it to a pc then you send in some "malicious" code that sets the switch free, for the time being. After a shut down you will have to inject the code again, so the switch runs off basically your SD card with custom firmware, instead of its original internal memory.

The Mod chips offer the best experience on the switch, by being able to "short" the switch whenever its started, meaning you no longer need jig your switch with a paperclip or some 3D printed thing you shove down the Joycon rail, whenever the unit was powered off completely (not that you could with a mariko switch or even a newer patched standard switch). After starting you're greeted with the launch screen where you can choose between running the virtual firmware you have on your sd card or even running the standard full stock experience instead.

The Mariko Switches also offer great extras when modded, you can run some games at 60FPS that would otherwise only run at 30 or what I like to do is running them in Docked Mode, even though I'm using the switch as a handheld, games look so much better and crisper then, with just minimal overclocking(basically use the dock clocks) and not really much of a hit to battery life.

 

[pbanj]

Came in today. Now im waiting for the cutting guide

View attachment 1000022691.jpg

 

[bf3itu]

king sem modchip? Não

Came in today. Now im waiting for the cutting guide

View attachment 480875

Dear friend, good evening.

The 200 pieces I ordered from JLC PCB were ready and sent, but the government in my country did not authorize their entry into the country.

I need to make a whole sheet like this photo, so it will be easier to enter.

Could you help me with this issue?

 

[pbanj]

Dear friend, good evening.

The 200 pieces I ordered from JLC PCB were ready and sent, but the government in my country did not authorize their entry into the country.

I need to make a whole sheet like this photo, so it will be easier to enter.

Could you help me with this issue?

You want to use the "paneled" gerbers. Set the option to "paneled by customer, 5X5" for the boards. The flex cables i believe i set 3x6

 

[buggyuser323]

Dears, I am haunted by a yellow *== (No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)) on my oled chip install. Redid all the connections, everything reported in the correct ranges (sorry too tired to go back and note exact values) but this is my first attempt at soldering so im sure i must have messed whole a bunch up. I used this video as my bible.

Please see these pictures of how my attempt went, and let me know if something sticks out to you as to the cause for this short long long *==?

My leading theory is I might have bridged something under the emmc or just fried it completely as i attempted to solder on the super-close-to-chip pad on the right. Tomorrow I will take to it my 380c ts101 default tip , lots of flux and go tapping on it. I have a spare dat0 adapter but i dont want to try using it until I hear from you that its worth a try. I also went completely bananas on the apu shield - did not have an xacto or composure at the time, but I pulled it out and bent it, so I'm thinking chances of scratched trace underneath is low. I've chopped off all the locking mechanisms on the plate, do you reckon im good to flatten it as much as possible, insulate all my stuff inside as much as possible, and continue using it? Are there alternatives, like cutting it in half into a square and rectangle, so they individually hold their shape better?

Please let me know what options I have, also please do share a few words on how I should go about doing that, since that'll help me navigate this new thing im trying out. =]

 

[MoeXzl]

Please see these pictures

Help, help!! Have you ever soldered? Don't take it personally, but that looks very sloppy. Cheap solder and probably no flux?! Don't use video as a reference next time. There is a very good tutorial here.

 

[impeeza]

Almost all the solders seems cold ones.

 

[buggyuser323]

Dears I tried redoing all the connections again, with emphasis on not having cold joints. (lots of SRA flux, 380c, good contact) I still get the dreaded *== yellow.

What can I try next? Do you see something wrong in my attachments and the readings?
(All readings taken red on ground, black on point, diode mode)
(Except sp1/sp2, one on ground and one on either side in resistance mode)
(B point in diode mode with one tester on ground and one point, 0.400 one way and 0 in the other)

 

[Moneyforthecash]

What can I try next?

Remove everything and hope that the switch still boots.

 

[buggyuser323]

Ok, took all the cables, adapters and everything off, it still boots into ofw.

I'll look for better solder, pick up another modchip packet, and try again. Should I be extra mindful of something before my next attempt?

 

[Danook28]

Ok, took all the cables, adapters and everything off, it still boots into ofw.

I'll look for better solder, pick up another modchip packet, and try again. Should I be extra mindful of something before my next attempt?

that happend to me i was use raspberry pi pico it is working cfw ofw fine. after change it to rp2040 it is not working change mosfet same all point read good coz it is ready soldring for raspberry pi pico. i have more rp2040 will change it and see.

 

[Sendpie]

Remove everything and hope that the switch still boots.

i have an oled that after a picofly install all diode values dropped to half (from 800 to 400). it stopped booting after that.

do you have any leads on how this could be fixed?

 

[Danook28]

i have an oled that after a picofly install all diode values dropped to half (from 800 to 400). it stopped booting after that.

do you have any leads on how this could be fixed?

me be the dat0 point or line kimkazi is cut or iron ball damage if dat0 adapter. some time it need charge more. or ic 77801ewp chip is fulty.

 

[LuigiGad]

i have an oled that after a picofly install all diode values dropped to half (from 800 to 400). it stopped booting after that.

do you have any leads on how this could be fixed?

It is very important to install on OLEDs starting from the most problematic point. I always start with the kamikaze. A kamikaze finished text smoothly if everything works as it should. then it continues. By doing so, you rule out 90% of the problems.

 

[Azramys]

Help My mariko Switch OLED Stopped booting to hekate, please what advice could you deliver ?

 

[impeeza]

Help My mariko Switch OLED Stopped booting to hekate, please what advice could you deliver ?

Make someone experimented to look into the modchip wiring and test how is working