Picofly AIO Thread

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i'm on v2.73. I have also removed data wires one by one (left side) to see any LED code, but nothing happens.
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Cleaned all solder joints, removed any flux left overs.
Checked all wires for continuity - all of them are good.
Additionally checked emmc ports to wire for continuity - good.
Checked for shortages - nothing found.
Yes, 3.3v is a little bit damaged, but still works (you can see that the Power LED is on)

Huge wires? Thats actually 30 awg :)

I'm sure that the soldering is good enough, my suspect is the PR2040. Is there any method to check the functionality of it? Unfortunately I have already removed the USB Port, would have tried to re-flash.
awg 30 vs awg 36.jpg

Awg 30 red vs awg 36 blue, with awg 30 you risk to rip pads.
I'm 99% shore the xiao is foulty.
if you whant to test if is still ok :
1 You can remove all wires and solder usb c port back and connect to usb c and pc and lock for blue light,**/**/**/sleep
2 Power the xiao pcb with bench power supply set to 3.3 v and lock for blue light,**/**/**/sleep
 
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I noticed newer picofly boards on aliexpress (the ones that seem to be cloning v6s) have D+, D-, and vol+ pads on the board. Are these wired up in the same way as D+, D- and vbus on the instinct v6s for USB passthrough? If not, what are those pads for? Can't find much info for this board in terms of wiring and functionality differences from the older variant.
 
I feel pretty stupid right now. I got this version of picofly from a chinese reseller on ebay and it came without instructions. I am modding a Marika Switch and have difficulties figuring out which ribbons I should use since the chip was a '3in1' kit with parts for all three Switch models. I've spent hours trying to google for a solution and going through pages on this thread here but still had no luck finding instructions. Please, any help would be so great right now.
I think this eMMC ribbon has to be soldered to the eMMC board (?). I guess I don't need the DAT0 adapter? I'd really rather not be guessing this :wacko:
 

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Maybe someone will come in handy, collected the latest available sources and added the build via github actions
github -> pgalonza/ns-pf-rp2040
 
I noticed newer picofly boards on aliexpress (the ones that seem to be cloning v6s) have D+, D-, and vol+ pads on the board. Are these wired up in the same way as D+, D- and vbus on the instinct v6s for USB passthrough? If not, what are those pads for? Can't find much info for this board in terms of wiring and functionality differences from the older variant.
I strangled too to found the proper tut. After some research I found D+ and D-, as i didn't want to solder a cable between the motherboard and vol+ i search for a soldering point on the motherboard and found one ! Works great :)
Here is a picture of the points I used ->
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I strangled too to found the proper tut. After some research I found D+ and D-, as i didn't want to solder a cable between the motherboard and vol+ i search for a soldering point on the motherboard and found one ! Works great :)
Here is a picture of the points I used ->
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Nice.
And how does passthrough get used?
My best guess would be holding VOL+ while plugging in USB with the system off.
It's strange that passthrough for picofly is so undocumented.
 
Nice.
And how does passthrough get used?
My best guess would be holding VOL+ while plugging in USB with the system off.
It's strange that passthrough for picofly is so undocumented.
yes exactly, turn off the console, hold Vol+ and plug the USB to the computer ;)
Now it's documented here at least ^^
 
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Yes, that error code is related to RST, which would be the lower chunk of that yellow ribbon cable if I'm reading the pinout for lite install correctly.
IMG_6791.jpg




I think I may have soldered off the pad on the ribbon that connects to the points on the board...

I was trying to resolder it then I noticed that

Can I use jumper wire?

Or is there a way I can get it to connect still?
 
View attachment 446109



I think I may have soldered off the pad on the ribbon that connects to the points on the board...

I was trying to resolder it then I noticed that

Can I use jumper wire?

Or is there a way I can get it to connect still?
You can try using wire to connect the RST on the motherboard to the B point on the chip and see if that works.
 
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Hi, just a quick question, when I place the chip inside the heatshield, it won't close properly (bulging). I had to place it outside through the fan hole and it looks very messy/ugly. Is this normal? where do you guys normally place the chip?
pcitit7ehved1.jpeg
 
hello
i'm looking for the firmware that shows a rocket during boot.
or a way to dump it from the chip ? the picofly toolbox doestn,t include this feature, maybe there is a pc app.
 
hello
i'm looking for the firmware that shows a rocket during boot.
or a way to dump it from the chip ? the picofly toolbox doestn,t include this feature, maybe there is a pc app.
The picofly toolbox DOES include this feature. Read the guide, it's related to sdloader
 
The picofly toolbox DOES include this feature. Read the guide, it's related to sdloader
Speaking of the picofly toolbox, I was unable to update the picofly to version 2.81 on erista V2. It works well on both lite and oled, I didn't have mariko at hand but only 2 erista v2 and on both it doesn't update.
 

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