Picofly AIO Thread

[naldo29]

If it works for you, then great, but I'm still more partial to this wayView attachment 374573

yeah i tried that method but found it to be a bit worse atleast for me (but to each of their own lol) Nothing i was just saying if my mosfet had any bridges that i didnt notice. but you said it looks good so thanks i appriciate the amazing guides youve made for this community and the help youve put into this fourm

 

[lightninjay]

yeah i tried that method but found it to be a bit worse atleast for me (but to each of their own lol) Nothing i was just saying if my mosfet had any bridges that i didnt notice. but you said it looks good so thanks i appriciate the amazing guides youve made for this community and the help youve put into this fourm

I did say "if it works for you", I have a small fear of the points within the red circle bridging if you don't carefully insulate them from one another.

 

[Takezo-San]

As I understand it (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) - The picofly writes to emmc (Normal BCT & SafeMode BCT & an unused section) - so it can't just be removed.... because the BCT (Boot Configuration Table) has been modified to point to the custom payload (not referring to payload.bin).

Mine still gets the no sd card if there is no sd card.... and I've managed to confirm that the glitch and boot sequence is working by using "ums-loader" as my payload.bin.

Just can't get in to Hekate.

Have the exact same issue. Looking for the Dat points for short found nothing but found a cap near the ground point (the cap for the lite). Near it is a chip. Not sure if that went out or the Cap went out. I used 2.7 firmware and feel that what caused it. Discorder users say that bricks the console, i might agree with them however, i do get pico logo but cant get elsewhere just like you. So not sure right now. Any updates? Does this cap short for you too?

 

[QuiTim]

Thanks.I understand that this component has made contact with the resistor on the right and has burned, can it be replaced? what is it called? thanksView attachment 374534

I am backtracking through the post and I see that you refered to this point as 3v3.
So lets clear this out, the point in your photo is supposed to be GND.
Did you solder 3v3 there or you just mistyped name in your message?
If you soldered 3v3 there then you have a big problem.
If you soldered GND, you are OK since thats the point it should be used for GND.

 

[LogicalMadness]

The slims will probably be converted to super slims as the cd controllers are dead and the ps1 I'm not sure can be revived

Everything can always be revived in my eyes. Is the juice worth the squeeze though?

 

[floxcap]

Have the exact same issue. Looking for the Dat points for short found nothing but found a cap near the ground point (the cap for the lite). Near it is a chip. Not sure if that went out or the Cap went out. I used 2.7 firmware and feel that what caused it. Discorder users say that bricks the console, i might agree with them however, i do get pico logo but cant get elsewhere just like you. So not sure right now. Any updates? Does this cap short for you too?

So - I've just inspected in that area with the microscope - and everything seemed okay - till I did another cleaning pass with some IPA and then noticed one of the parts looks a little odd - not a capacitor though.

Perhaps someone can shed some light on what the part in this spot is?
(This is a reference image - on mine the part is blown - when cleaning the whole top came off and it crumbled).

Nothing left of that part on my board

 

[zorusgb]

I intentionally used only one of the available data pads. I thought, if I accidentally rip the pad (a lot of people did) I'll have a backup to fall on without needing to resort to trace repairs. Now that I know the connections are decent I can mask the wires to the board and call it a day. I need to replace the MOSFET anyway (don't ask why), so might as well try the double setup. Good thing I ordered 5. Unfortunately, I only have the 8342's; at the time I ordered them there wasn't much information on alternatives.

With the wires shortened as humanly possible (the Pico positioned on the top of the EMMC) and two caps with single MOSFET it still behaves the same way. Time to try the SDA/SCL option. Those are only data connections, so 0.1mm enamel wire should be fine, right? Does it matter how the wires are routed, on the back of the MB or through the front; it seems to be the same to me, but then again I'll be doing it for a first time so no idea if it makes a difference?

 

[LogicalMadness]

So - I've just inspected in that area with the microscope - and everything seemed okay - till I did another cleaning pass with some IPA and then noticed one of the parts looks a little odd - not a capacitor though.

Perhaps someone can shed some light on what the part in this spot is?
(This is a reference image - on mine the part is blown - when cleaning the whole top came off and it crumbled).

Nothing left of that part on my board

View attachment 374622View attachment 374628

Diode? Hence the arrow-line symbol?

 

[Takezo-San]

So - I've just inspected in that area with the microscope - and everything seemed okay - till I did another cleaning pass with some IPA and then noticed one of the parts looks a little odd - not a capacitor though.

Perhaps someone can shed some light on what the part in this spot is?
(This is a reference image - on mine the part is blown - when cleaning the whole top came off and it crumbled).

Nothing left of that part on my board

View attachment 374622View attachment 374628

Nevermind that previous observation of mine, @QuiTim says its most likely an inductor and not a cap and they usually give negatives in diode mode on multimeter. I honestly think its bricked (atleast mine). My theory is, the emmc got corrupted with the bad firmware and will not boot into stage 1. Only way I know how to fix that is if you can get into hekate to restore a back up. But can't do that because couldn't make a backup in the first place OR two, get a donor emmc but even that way probably won't work because....what emmc am i going to clone it with? Shyza!

 

[floxcap]

Diode? Hence the arrow-line symbol?

Doh. I feel silly for not noticing that.

THB - I was thinking that looked like some sort of boost/buck converted (just guessing based on the layout pattern / inductor etc). So yeah - diode would make sense.

I've probably got something suitable to replace it (but it'd be a guess for the specifics).

Perhaps I could use one of these:
Schottky 2A 30V 380pF

??

 

[kapranos]

I am backtracking through the post and I see that you refered to this point as 3v3.
So lets clear this out, the point in your photo is supposed to be GND.
Did you solder 3v3 there or you just mistyped name in your message?
If you soldered 3v3 there then you have a big problem.
If you soldered GND, you are OK since thats the point it should be used for GND.

Sorry, you are right, it was my typing mistake, there I soldered GND from the 2040 to that point of the resistor, then why does it seem to have burned? maybe a short with the integrated on the left? I'm really lost now, should I replace the resistor and the integrated? thanks

Post automatically merged: May 29, 2023

As I understand it, this component was burned when contacting the resistor where I soldered the GND, what is it called? is it easy to replace? thank you.

Post automatically merged: May 29, 2023

Doh. I feel silly for not noticing that.

THB - I was thinking that looked like some sort of boost/buck converted (just guessing based on the layout pattern / inductor etc). So yeah - diode would make sense.

I've probably got something suitable to replace it (but it'd be a guess for the specifics).

Perhaps I could use one of these:
Schottky 2A 30V 380pF

??

I think I have the same problem as you, it seems that when I soldered the GND made contact with that component and burned, I saw smoke coming out of that area.

In microscope it doesn't look bad but if it smells burnt, what can I replace it with? thanks.

 

[floxcap]

Sorry, you are right, it was my typing mistake, there I soldered GND from the 2040 to that point of the resistor, then why does it seem to have burned? maybe a short with the integrated on the left? I'm really lost now, should I replace the resistor and the integrated? thanks

Post automatically merged: May 29, 2023

As I understand it, this component was burned when contacting the resistor where I soldered the GND, what is it called? is it easy to replace? thank you.View attachment 374676

Post automatically merged: May 29, 2023

I think I have the same problem as you, it seems that when I soldered the GND made contact with that component and burned, I saw smoke coming out of that area.

In microscope it doesn't look bad but if it smells burnt, what can I replace it with? thanks.
View attachment 374677

I Think - what's been pointed out to me - that it is probably a diode.

I've done quite a bit of searching and haven't found any direct information on it yet.
There seems to be a few places around that are selling "switch lite diode".

I suspect though that it might be a schottky diode of some value - hopefully that means that the value doesn't matter too much - so I don't have one on hand that will fit - but I'm going to test my theory (hopefully) tonight with an ugly hack:
(Schottky 2A 30V 380pF - is all I have on hand).

 

[pindleskin]

After managing to mod my Switch Lite quite easily, I think I messed up my patched V1. All went smooth until the 3v3 point on the cap. I bridged the contact to the cap next to it and to remove the bridge I then had to remove the 3v3 cap from the board. During this process the cap got pretty destroyed: No lead on one of the sides and change in color. So not usable anymore. The solder pads still seem to be fine, no bridge.

Is it possible/save to run the Switch without this cap or is there another cap, that I could source somewhere else?

According to this here it is a 2.2µf 10V MLCC, so there would still be the alternative to just order some of these off the shelf.

 

[QuiTim]

After managing to mod my Switch Lite quite easily, I think I messed up my patched V1. All went smooth until the 3v3 point on the cap. I bridged the contact to the cap next to it and to remove the bridge I then had to remove the 3v3 cap from the board. During this process the cap got pretty destroyed: No lead on one of the sides and change in color. So not usable anymore. The solder pads still seem to be fine, no bridge.

Is it possible/save to run the Switch without this cap or is there another cap, that I could source somewhere else?

According to this here it is a 2.2µf 10V MLCC, so there would still be the alternative to just order some of these off the shelf.

View attachment 374683

You should solder 3v3 on emmc board. And I think that Switch works without this cap

 

[kapranos]

The inductor close to 3v3 seems damaged (might be bad photo)
Also check for short on the resistor side in pico

It seems that this inductor is damaged, how could I measure its values and what should they be? thanks

 

[QuiTim]

It seems that this inductor is damaged, how could I measure its values and what should they be? thanks

Don't know the values but it should be this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002702445165.html

 

[pindleskin]

You should solder 3v3 on emmc board. And I think that Switch works without this cap

Thank you. So no permanent damage or unstability to be expected without the cap?

 

[QuiTim]

Thank you. So no permanent damage or unstability to be expected without the cap?

I don't know the long term consequences. You should probably replace the cap in meantime if possible.

 

[hippy dave]

Everything can always be revived in my eyes. Is the juice worth the squeeze though?

Hello yes hi I accidentally dropped my Switch through a wood chipper plz revive it

 

[QuiTim]

Hello yes hi I accidentally dropped my Switch through a wood chipper plz revive it

No problem, please contact us for reverse wood chipper procedure

Post automatically merged: May 29, 2023

I Think - what's been pointed out to me - that it is probably a diode.

I've done quite a bit of searching and haven't found any direct information on it yet.
There seems to be a few places around that are selling "switch lite diode".

I suspect though that it might be a schottky diode of some value - hopefully that means that the value doesn't matter too much - so I don't have one on hand that will fit - but I'm going to test my theory (hopefully) tonight with an ugly hack:
(Schottky 2A 30V 380pF - is all I have on hand).View attachment 374682

after 3h of research (I have a mild case of ocd for these kind of things ) it seems to be a 5.6V 200mA schottky