Picofly AIO Thread

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Why not just mask off areas you don't want solder on?
View attachment 374730

For ground, I don't see any point in soldering to components at all. Soldering to ground points on boards is like a 'choose your own adventure' to me. *Hope you didn't skip the DMM as optional ;) *

May I suggest these:
IMG_20230529_104652.jpg
 
Last edited by LogicalMadness,
For ground, I don't see any point in soldering to components at all. Soldering to ground points on boards is like a 'choose your own adventure' to me. *Hope you didn't skip the DMM as optional ;) *

May I suggest these:View attachment 374751
Starting to see that now too, its easier and its just ground!?
 

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Thanks but it's tough getting solder into that point, and psychologically I just don't want to touch it anymore. this is how I do it now and it works great. Thanks
i mean its ur job Xd

but how do u solve the issue with the solder and the shield?
 
Starting to see that now too, its easier and its just ground!?
I guess I could see one small reason to solder to a component, it has solder on it already, easier to add more than to start a new pad. But that's n00b sht.

Flux, gently rub\scratch the pad with tweezers, turn iron heat up (only you know your tools, depending on the board I use 400-450*C), strategericly (ty Bush) blob solder on the pad, more flux, make pretty, profit.
 
I guess I could see one small reason to solder to a component, it has solder on it already, easier to add more than to start a new pad. But that's n00b sht.

Flux, gently rub\scratch the pad with tweezers, turn iron heat up (only you know your tools, depending on the board I use 400-450*C), strategericly (ty Bush) blob solder on the pad, more flux, make pretty, profit.
That is not a problem for me, figured that out when i grounded my mosfet on the APU and was like "Huh...this pads...not holding my solder....." figured it out with flux bit of scratching and adding....THE BLOB!
 
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Hi
All new update of Picofly fw have some problem dont work on V2 Mariko show 1 long two short light. Back to lower fv 2.64 oraz 2.72 work normal
 
Hi
All new update of Picofly fw have some problem dont work on V2 Mariko show 1 long two short light. Back to lower fv 2.64 oraz 2.72 work normal
=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
So after this you downgraded and it worked!?
 
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I know that but how are u gonna fit the shield that goes on top , with that solder blop.
Not gonna sit properly
Yes, I used a wick after the picture and smoothed it out. It fit nicely. Do you have any other GND point suggestions?
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Thanks for this. One incontinence I'm facing is having to solder two wires into CPU point. I'll just do this and bridge the Gs right off the MOSFET. nice.
 
No problem, please contact us for reverse wood chipper procedure :D
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after 3h of research (if have a mild case of ocd for these kind of things :) ) it seems to be a 5.6V 200mA schottky

Thank you @QuiTim !!
That makes sense. This seems to be a DCDC boost for the backlight.
( also that probably means it's a little under-rated :P )

boost-converter-working-model.jpg
 
Hey all, I have successfully installed Pi Pico to an OLED. Here is some dirty pictures of it.
I was very skeptical about lack of LED but pico is fast, it didn’t let me suffer.
 

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Hey all, I have successfully installed Pi Pico to an OLED. Here is some dirty pictures of it.
I was very skeptical about lack of LED but pico is fast, it didn’t let me suffer.
I used it once and absolutely hated it. Especially where I have to solder dat0. Between cutting the PCB and desoldering components, I don't see why I'd use this over rp2040. This is good work though.
 
Here is a CPU flex for Mariko devices (and Erista if you run wires from the exposed pads), with Dual Independent MOSFETs built into one package. I put small pads for sp1 and sp2 if you just want to run wires instead of placing the flex over the capacitors.

also ignore the small circles in the cutouts, that's just the 3d viewer not cutting out the copper from plated through holes.

Kicad project and gerbers:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YPrlNqbp0VJ8IM3nWb1fSZJKgaQMFjxY
pcbnew_tYafdgR3EV.png
FlexOLEDSingleBack.png
 
Last edited by CodyRoseman,
every little helps
I don't know if you saw the post earlier but i think that the missing diode is 5.6V 200mA Schottky (based on the circuit)
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I guess I could see one small reason to solder to a component, it has solder on it already, easier to add more than to start a new pad. But that's n00b sht.

Flux, gently rub\scratch the pad with tweezers, turn iron heat up (only you know your tools, depending on the board I use 400-450*C), strategericly (ty Bush) blob solder on the pad, more flux, make pretty, profit.
I guess these points and this "technique" were developed to better secure the flex cables with which the mod was originially designed. Fifty thousand pieces used to be soldered like that... Now they are just Ghost Mods... :P
 
Last edited by QuiTim,
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isnt SP1 and SP2 ground?
Idk if you mean the naming convntion of sp1 and sp2, but I have just referred to the positive points on the capacitors as such, since i've seen those names around the internet. otherwise no, those exposed pads are the drains on the mosfets.
 

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