Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Using lower temp on component that might get hot, is kind of risky right?
The components in the Switch don't get that hot because it has some sort of active cooling.
And nobody uses that kind of exotic low melt point solder.

There are cases like some Samsung tablet where the emmc would get so hot that it would partially detach itself from the PCB.
That was both due to poor quality emmc, a lack of active cooling and some exotic solder that should not have been used anyway.
 
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hello everyone. I thought to make modifications to my oled. I think I made the modifications correctly because I started Hekate and made a backup but it does not load any system, I only have a black screen. ofw 19. on the memory band I have 0.840v, not if I could not achieve less. after dismantling the modification the console does not start. it also does not respond to the charger. I probably did not short circuit. thank you for your help
 

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hello everyone. I thought to make modifications to my oled. I think I made the modifications correctly because I started Hekate and made a backup but it does not load any system, I only have a black screen. ofw 19. on the memory band I have 0.840v, not if I could not achieve less. after dismantling the modification the console does not start. it also does not respond to the charger. I probably did not short circuit. thank you for your help
Share pics of your install.
 
this is what it looks like after disassembly. I measured the capacitors on the CPU and it was normal before I started the console.
 

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I'm a bit out of my depth here, I admit to not knowing what to look for. That said, some things stand out:

This shield looks askew and not engaging the latch, likely was taken off and then put back on, but not quite right:
screenshot_2024-10-29_16-11-49.png
I'd also check these traces here:
screenshot_2024-10-29_16-22-35.png
And this IC looks a bit off in the picture?
screenshot_2024-10-29_16-15-52.png
 
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I'm a bit out of my depth here, I admit to not knowing what to look for. That said, some things stand out:

This shield looks askew and not engaging the latch, likely was taken off and then put back on, but not quite right:
I'd also check these traces here:
And this IC looks a bit off in the picture?
this sheet metal cover looks very good in real life as if it had not been touched at all. next to the processor the flux residues were cleaned and it is clean and the last photo is simply out of focus there visually it is also good. unfortunately I do not have a better camera to capture it 😏. there are very few black screens described. do people not have such problems 🤔
 
What is the good place that can chose for cpu mosfet back of motherboard wier coz some time it is become hard to close metal case with out wrong glich !!!! On lite motherboard.
 
Last edited by Danook28,
What is the good place that can cpu mosfet back of motherboard wier some time it is become noise!!!! On lite motherboard.
Dude, google translate and chatgpt are great at translating. Maybe consider writing in your own language and translate to english? It is very hard to understand what you are asking.
 
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What is the good place that can chose for cpu mosfet back of motherboard wier coz some time it is become hard to close metal case with out wrong glich !!!! On lite motherboard.
Just search through this thread. There were several pictures posted of mosfets on the back of the PCB.
 
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Error emummc after update 19.0.1 ofw working emummc show this error
 

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I made the modification on the OLED switch, and after soldering all the points and making the connections with the chip, everything worked very well; the 'No SD card' screen appeared repeatedly. My problem started after I began reassembling the Nintendo. After placing the copper heatsink and tightening it with screws, the switch only booted into the original system. The chip showed a blue light, a long yellow light, and a short yellow light.

I removed the heatsink, and it worked a few times on the modified system, but other times it booted into the original system. I re-soldered some points to shorten the wires, but nothing changed; now it continues to show the long yellow light and the short yellow light.

Clk 0.862
CMD 0.632
Dat0 1.743
3.3 0.866
RST 1.538
 

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I made the modification on the OLED switch, and after soldering all the points and making the connections with the chip, everything worked very well; the 'No SD card' screen appeared repeatedly. My problem started after I began reassembling the Nintendo. After placing the copper heatsink and tightening it with screws, the switch only booted into the original system. The chip showed a blue light, a long yellow light, and a short yellow light.

I removed the heatsink, and it worked a few times on the modified system, but other times it booted into the original system. I re-soldered some points to shorten the wires, but nothing changed; now it continues to show the long yellow light and the short yellow light.

Clk 0.862
CMD 0.632
Dat0 1.743
3.3 0.866
RST 1.538

That's the error code for Dat0. Also, your reading looks a bit high. Double check the connections for that.
 

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