Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[psycho-neon]

Do you know what's the diode reading when dat0 and dat1 are shorted??

How do you guys remove the shield barrier around the nand on oleds?? I normally break it apart carefully, but a lot of time it takes the the ground pads with it, which I absolutely hate.

Shorted dat0/1 reads about 1.1 black probe on ground from my experience

For shield barrier, I usually use mini grinder to cut it. Another thing is to use a very sharp pointed cutter and cut into small pieces.

 

[LuigiGad]

Do you know what's the diode reading when dat0 and dat1 are shorted??

Of course, clean DAT0 has a value, DAT0 shorted with DAT1 has another value. Complete disconnection has another value.

 

[Phantomas77]

....
2. Mix low melt solder on pads of mainboard and chip then wick off. I find it helps remove all the solder from the pads.

Why are you using low melt? Could it still leave traces after cleaning and cause future damage after mix with Sn63/Pb37?

I'm no reball expert, but here's how I approach it: after detaching the eMMC, I apply directly (a good amount) of Sn63/Pb37 paste on top of PCB and eMMC surface, mix it well through all the points with solder iron, and then wick-off everything. That way I can ensure that whatever is still left on top of the contacts, it should mostly be Sn63/Pb37 that I'll use in the next step for eMMC reballing with stencil.

Would like to hear how the experienced guys are handeling this step

 

[nuage83]

Hi everybody

Is it possible to replace a nand without any information from the old one.

 

[LuigiGad]

Hi everybody

Is it possible to replace a nand without any information from the old one.

Stethix unbrick level 3

 

[karatefeet]

Why are you using low melt? Could it still leave traces after cleaning and cause future damage after mix with Sn63/Pb37?

I'm no reball expert, but here's how I approach it: after detaching the eMMC, I apply directly (a good amount) of Sn63/Pb37 paste on top of PCB and eMMC surface, mix it well through all the points with solder iron, and then wick-off everything. That way I can ensure that whatever is still left on top of the contacts, it should mostly be Sn63/Pb37 that I'll use in the next step for eMMC reballing with stencil.

Would like to hear how the experienced guys are handeling this step

I like this approach better and will try this. I was using the low melt as I found it helped to wick away the old solder more cleanly but you're right about the mixing with sn63/pb37. Thank you.

 

[deeps]

I like this approach better and will try this. I was using the low melt as I found it helped to wick away the old solder more cleanly but you're right about the mixing with sn63/pb37. Thank you.

what kind of low melt?

 

[karatefeet]

what kind of low melt?

Mechanic 138* solder. Same stuff I apply to the USB port anchor holes before wicking them clean.

 

[deeps]

Mechanic 138* solder. Same stuff I apply to the USB port anchor holes before wicking them clean.

Aha, I think this explains your problem. It consists of 50% bismuth, and solder with traces of both bismuth and lead mixed in becomes unstable. You can either switch to a bismuth-based paste, or to a leaded solder wire for preconditioning the balls... or just use the paste for that too.

 

[jkyoho]

Aha, I think this explains your problem. It consists of 50% bismuth, and solder with traces of both bismuth and lead mixed in becomes unstable. You can either switch to a bismuth-based paste, or to a leaded solder wire for preconditioning the balls... or just use the paste for that too.

Bismuth+ Pb/lead become extreme low melt join, solder joint liquefied less than 100C

 

[karatefeet]

Aha, I think this explains your problem. It consists of 50% bismuth, and solder with traces of both bismuth and lead mixed in becomes unstable. You can either switch to a bismuth-based paste, or to a leaded solder wire for preconditioning the balls... or just use the paste for that too.

Ah thank you for that info, I had no idea. Will stop using the low melt.

Post automatically merged: Jan 12, 2024

Bismuth+ Pb/lead become extreme low melt join, solder joint liquefied less than 100C

Thank you for this info!

 

[superxoi]

Weird. I have been using this chinese low melt (even doesn't have a brand) for all my bga reballing even on SoCs . It helps me wick off the residual leadfree quickly and clearly before applying 63/37 solder paste. But i haven't had any issue yet.

 

[deeps]

Weird. I have been using this chinese low melt (even doesn't have a brand) for all my bga reballing even on SoCs . It helps me wick off the residual leadfree quickly and clearly before applying 63/37 solder paste. But i haven't had any issue yet.

perhaps your solder wick is better and gets rid of almost all of the bismuth residue... there are many variables

 

[eddz]

Do you know what's the diode reading when dat0 and dat1 are shorted??

How do you guys remove the shield barrier around the nand on oleds?? I normally break it apart carefully, but a lot of time it takes the the ground pads with it, which I absolutely hate.

I just jimmy it back and forth until it fatigues the metal and breaks off on its own. Don't pull up (away from the board) at all whilst doing this. It might take a few back-and-forths.

Post automatically merged: Jan 12, 2024

My 8th kamikaze. im loving this method more than anything else right now. Gives me thrill and challenge.

So envious. I've put in an order for a grinder from AliExpress to try this method out.

 

[ThiagoDaruma]

hi guys, i saw in the guide that there are new points for installing the mosfet, without removing the APU cover. are they reliable? i'm thinking of testing on an oled and a lite today.

 

[superxoi]

perhaps your solder wick is better and gets rid of almost all of the bismuth residue... there are many variables

Yes. I always double check the surface making sure all the pins are being flattened before applying new solder paste.

Post automatically merged: Jan 12, 2024

hi guys, i saw in the guide that there are new points for installing the mosfet, without removing the APU cover. are they reliable? i'm thinking of testing on an oled and a lite today.

if you are not comfortable with the front one then you can do it at the back one. recently i always do back mosfet because my new mosfet is a big fat boy instead of the tiny irh8342. but i find that the big boy is more reliable(has not had any faulty) than the tiny one.

 

[ThiagoDaruma]

Yes. I always double check the surface making sure all the pins are being flattened before applying new solder paste.

Post automatically merged: Jan 12, 2024

if you are not comfortable with the front one then you can do it at the back one. recently i always do back mosfet because my new mosfet is a big fat boy instead of the tiny irh8342. but i find that the big boy is more reliable(has not had any faulty) than the tiny one.

I don't have a problem with doing it on the front. but if I can do it without cutting the Apu shield and without leaving the mosfet inside, it seems safer to me, or am I wrong? I think I'm going to test this new method, I found it very interesting, I would just like to know if anyone has already done the possible cons of this method

 

[psycho-neon]

So envious. I've put in an order for a grinder from AliExpress to try this method out.

You can buy the MaAnt D1 it has 0.2mm tip which is best for grinding micro stuffs.

 

[karatefeet]

recently i always do back mosfet because my new mosfet is a big fat boy instead of the tiny irh8342. but i find that the big boy is more reliable(has not had any faulty) than the tiny one.

Can you provide a link for the big boy?

 

[bvang913]

hi guys, i saw in the guide that there are new points for installing the mosfet, without removing the APU cover. are they reliable? i'm thinking of testing on an oled and a lite today.

I've only recently started modding, but every install I've done was on the back. And they've all worked, normal switches, lites, and OLED.