Its still show rasp icon
Earlier i flash hekate sdloader so it looks like that
It fits perfect here (close to the speaker), just make sure everything is insulated because the shield goes very close to the edge of rp2040 on this position.
I took this picture before covering everything in kapton so again, make sure you don't short something
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if you don't want to trim, it will fit but you have to cover it carefully and make sure it fit perfectly before you put the shield on. i no longer do that , recently i trim the chip a little bit and it fit perfectly.
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Hello everyone, I have done many modchip installs on V2 and today I attempted to mod my oled.
I installed the chip, only thing I noticed is that RST diode value was ~1.3 but some people said it is normal for picofly.
Everything worked fine, chip worked, I booted into OFW to test the joycons and everything was okay. I turned off the console and started to reassemble. After reassembling I got black screen and a code on the chip, **, which means RST not connected.
It is now 4am and I have tried nearly everything, I reflashed the firmware (with nuke before flash), I redid the RST point and got the same 1.3 reading... no boot, same error.
I even tried disconnecting the chip by desoldering the 3.3V line and the console does nothing... no OFW just black screen. I do not understand what may have gone wrong, my soldering is very good, I even have pictures.
RST point without chip is 0L, I read somewhere that the point needs to be intact for the console to boot ofw... I don't exactly have my hopes up, since I tried with the RST point disconnected too...
I hope it's not totally dead, I don't even know how it died, this sucks... Any help is appreciated, thank you in advance guys.
I installed the chip, only thing I noticed is that RST diode value was ~1.3 but some people said it is normal for picofly.
Everything worked fine, chip worked, I booted into OFW to test the joycons and everything was okay. I turned off the console and started to reassemble. After reassembling I got black screen and a code on the chip, **, which means RST not connected.
It is now 4am and I have tried nearly everything, I reflashed the firmware (with nuke before flash), I redid the RST point and got the same 1.3 reading... no boot, same error.
I even tried disconnecting the chip by desoldering the 3.3V line and the console does nothing... no OFW just black screen. I do not understand what may have gone wrong, my soldering is very good, I even have pictures.
RST point without chip is 0L, I read somewhere that the point needs to be intact for the console to boot ofw... I don't exactly have my hopes up, since I tried with the RST point disconnected too...
I hope it's not totally dead, I don't even know how it died, this sucks... Any help is appreciated, thank you in advance guys.
Just remember if RST error, it might be because wrong voltage supplied to the picofly.
Why?
Heres the explanation:
The first time picofly turns on, it check the RST voltage. Its should be around 1.8V +- 0.2.
If you use 4.2V from the battery rather the 3.3V from the regulator ic, then the measurement will be invalid, and showing the false alert.
Here, in the souce code, the firmware use 3.3V as the references.
https://github.com/rehius/usk/blob/6530fd9fe58980ea03d47905bad5e871b9439b7a/main.c#L49
Theres a scenario in the past, when someone use the 4.2V from the battery.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10185044
In your cases, since you said, its worked fine, before reassemble. I think you have source the 3.3V line correctly. But after you reassembled then it goes wrong. I strongly believe you short circuit something in there, maybe by accidentally. That lead to a drop of voltage on the 3.3V line in picofly, and lead to the false alarm of RST disconnected.
The problem is, that Short Circuit might broke other thing, which i hope not. You might try to use hdmi adapter to make sure. Maybe its the oled connector problem.
If you use flex to the emmc, you need to take it of too. Since that could also be the probable cause. The connection in there are not solid (no soldering).
Last edited by abal1000x,
Thanks for the reply. I searched the thread and saw the battery problem. I did not make the same mistake, I am using voltage from the correct place.
I checked all picofly connections and there is no short anywhere, all measured good before and after it stopped working.
Is 0L on switch RST (B) point (when disconnected) okay?
The only explanation I can give for the reassembly causing an issue is that my 3.3V jumper on that cap may have touched the metal shield that sits on top, shorting my 3.3V line straight to ground... sounds bad, if anything, I hope it only fried the regulator IC, Is there an easy way to test if that did in fact happen?
Also, I am using flex for the emmc but it measures ok, and it worked before reassembly so I doubt that is a problem...
This is really unlucky, I don't feel like I did anything wrong.
Last edited by bepaqui,
Assuming you haven't fried anything on the board, problems with your eMMC will prevent you from booting the system. Take out that flex first then use a cleaning agent under the chip, this will 75% revive your console.
I will try it, but why does it say RST not connected all of a sudden after having worked once?
Post automatically merged:
No shorts around m92, only left side of max chip which is normal according to many sources.
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Disconnected the wire from RST and DAT0 on the board (didn't remove adapter yet but measured), then disconnected every other wire from the modchip. Switch still does nothing, black screen. I am unable to find any shorts on the board...
Edit:
I removed the adapter and cleaned the area with ethanol, still black screen. Is it even worth buying a usb c power meter at this point... Some say putting in hwfly can revive it, is that true..? Man, this totally sucks, after so many modchip installs I decide to do my own switch and it just dies inexplicably.
Last edited by bepaqui,
it's time for providing some pictures of your installation and the training section video, friend.
As I said I removed the emmc adapter, I only have pictures of CPU flex, 3.3V, A and D. B is disconnected and C is also disconnected. I have no training video but it totally worked the first time before reassembly. This is bizarre.
Post automatically merged:
I did try with all wires off the modchip, you mean I should disconnect all wires from the board too? Will that make a difference...?
Post automatically merged:
Sorry I meant to also reply here.
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