I regularly use 91/47/47 or 91/51/51 when the 47ohm resistors run out. I never have slow memory problems or other issue. I didn't buy 100ohm resistors because I already had a large amount of 91ohm resistors.
oh, it's really simple - I had only 47 and 210 ohm resistors. The 47 ones worked, and the 210 ones didn't.
If 100 ones work better for you, use them
oh, it's really simple - I had only 47 and 210 ohm resistors. The 47 ones worked, and the 210 ones didn't.
If 100 ones work better for you, use them
I got the 'slow emmc" message that was fixed by adding a 100ohm resistor only twice in my 100+ installations. That's why I don't choose to do it regularly.I regularly use 91/47/47 or 91/51/51 when the 47ohm resistors run out. I never have slow memory problems or other issue. I didn't buy 100ohm resistors because I already had a large amount of 91ohm resistors.
I feel like the suggestion to add two 47 ohm resistors is still sufficient. A smart enough modder will be able to infer that replacing such a setup with a 100 ohm resistor would be an equivalent setup.is this good enough for you to update the guide yet, @lightninjay?
this means you have connected the 3.3v wire to the wrong position (direct battery 4.2v). the caps are pretty similarAlso pico starts right after connecting the battery without pressing the power button. Is it suppose to be like that?
holy... This was so obvious... Thanksthis means you have connected the 3.3v wire to the wrong position (direct battery 4.2v). the caps are pretty similar
Now pico starts ok but it gives me en error =*== emmc test faliure - read failedthis means you have connected the 3.3v wire to the wrong position (direct battery 4.2v). the caps are pretty similar
I've got this one and I think it's really good:Good morning guys. I need an instant curing light/laser.
Some lamps that take a few seconds to harden the UV resin. Which one do you recommend?
Search in this thread, @lightninjay told some recomendation. And i had confirmed its works in seconds (between 15-50s) under transparent uv resin.Good morning guys. I need an instant curing light/laser.
Some lamps that take a few seconds to harden the UV resin. Which one do you recommend?
Search in this thread, @lightninjay told some recomendation. And i had confirmed its works in seconds (between 15-50s) under transparent uv resin.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10193981
Do you have WS logo on your back of rp2040 tiny PCB?A few pages back there was some conversation about those bootleg RP2040 Tiny's and the LED not working properly. I ended up with a few and yes I can confirm the led codes do not appear when the chip is installed. Luckily the install was a success, but if it wasn't I wouldn't be able to tell what the issue is. Has anyone found a workaround to get these LEDs working properly? Thanks.
I haven't found a solution. Have tried swapping the led and the chip next to the voltage regulator from a zero with no difference.A few pages back there was some conversation about those bootleg RP2040 Tiny's and the LED not working properly. I ended up with a few and yes I can confirm the led codes do not appear when the chip is installed. Luckily the install was a success, but if it wasn't I wouldn't be able to tell what the issue is. Has anyone found a workaround to get these LEDs working properly? Thanks.
Nope doesn't have it. I bought real ones from the same store, but when I reordered more these were those ones with the big connector.Do you have WS logo on your back of rp2040 tiny PCB?
That sounds good. I'll give that a try for my next install. ThanksI haven't found a solution. Have tried swapping the led and the chip next to the voltage regulator from a zero with no difference.
What I've been doing is initially flashing to v2.67 to get the led back. Then once confirmed the install is good, update via pico toolbox to v2.75.