I regularly use 91/47/47 or 91/51/51 when the 47ohm resistors run out. I never have slow memory problems or other issue. I didn't buy 100ohm resistors because I already had a large amount of 91ohm resistors.
So there's no specific resistance target in the FW? Just 'some resistance til it works' as a general rule, no FW involved?
I got the 'slow emmc" message that was fixed by adding a 100ohm resistor only twice in my 100+ installations. That's why I don't choose to do it regularly.
I feel like the suggestion to add two 47 ohm resistors is still sufficient. A smart enough modder will be able to infer that replacing such a setup with a 100 ohm resistor would be an equivalent setup.
I installed pico rp2040 on my oled. Every connection looks ok but it doesnt work. Im getting 2 short blinks (rst not connected error) and it boots to normal os.
Rst point has 1,5 value in diode mode test if its connected to pico. Without conection is 2.7. Also pico starts right after connecting the battery without pressing the power button. Is it suppose to be like that?
Where could be the problem?
Rst point has 1,5 value in diode mode test if its connected to pico. Without conection is 2.7. Also pico starts right after connecting the battery without pressing the power button. Is it suppose to be like that?
Where could be the problem?
Last edited by unchil,
I've got this one and I think it's really good:
Professional 10W UV Glue Curing Lamp USB Ultraviolet LED Purple Light Plug & Play Used for Phone Circuit Board Repairing
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ev7PbHV
Search in this thread, @lightninjay told some recomendation. And i had confirmed its works in seconds (between 15-50s) under transparent uv resin.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10193981
Well, probably it's just me, but in 3 different consoles that I tried, I never got them to work with a single MOSFET (IRFHS8342 from Digikey, 0.31mm wires on S&D, 100/100/47 and 47/47/47 config, RP2040-zero FW2.73):
- OLED soldered to CPU cap --> ==* (CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
- OLED soldered in the back (deeps and Abal points) --> ==*
- Erista unpatched soldered in the back (Abal's points) --> glitched few times and than ==*
Some thoughts that came into my mind:
- OLED soldered to CPU cap --> ==* (CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
- OLED soldered in the back (deeps and Abal points) --> ==*
- Erista unpatched soldered in the back (Abal's points) --> glitched few times and than ==*
Some thoughts that came into my mind:
- should I add another MOSFET so the current will be higher?
- since the back points are more distant to the SoC than the "original" caps, is the distance enough to affect the glitch?
- should I stick to double MOSFET on SoC caps as usual? Probably I will.
- what am I missing here?
A few pages back there was some conversation about those bootleg RP2040 Tiny's and the LED not working properly. I ended up with a few and yes I can confirm the led codes do not appear when the chip is installed. Luckily the install was a success, but if it wasn't I wouldn't be able to tell what the issue is. Has anyone found a workaround to get these LEDs working properly? Thanks.
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I haven't found a solution. Have tried swapping the led and the chip next to the voltage regulator from a zero with no difference.
What I've been doing is initially flashing to v2.67 to get the led back. Then once confirmed the install is good, update via pico toolbox to v2.75.
My pico in oled shows =*== error - emmc test faliure, read failed. Console boots to normal os.
My diode mode values looks like below
0.614 dat0
0.68 cmd
0.73 clk
1.5 rst
0,62 cpu
Every connnection and every resistor looks ok. Emmc adapter looks like on the photo. Where can I look for the problem?
My diode mode values looks like below
0.614 dat0
0.68 cmd
0.73 clk
1.5 rst
0,62 cpu
Every connnection and every resistor looks ok. Emmc adapter looks like on the photo. Where can I look for the problem?
Attachments
Nope doesn't have it. I bought real ones from the same store, but when I reordered more these were those ones with the big connector.
That sounds good. I'll give that a try for my next install. Thanks
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Jayro:
Eventhough the New 3DS XL is more powerful, I still feel like the DS Lite was a more polished system. It's a real shame that it never got an XL variant keeping the GBA slot. You'd have to go on AliExpress and buy an ML shell to give a DS phat the unofficial "DS Lite" treatment, and that's the best we'll ever get I'm afraid.+1 -
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SylverReZ:
@Jayro, I don't see whats so special about the DS ML, its just a DS lite in a phat shell. At least the phat model had louder speakers, whereas the lite has a much better screen.+1 -
@
SylverReZ:
They probably said "Hey, why not we combine the two together and make a 'new' DS to sell".
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Veho:
Nothing special about it other than it's more comfortable than the Lite+1
for people with beefy hands. -
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