I ordered from thisSo they just sent me shit basically, that's not cool, I was expecting the above adapters too
Unless you meant the hwfly one.
Sadly that's what they do ,don't really care the only thing they care about is the money u send them.So they just sent me shit basically, that's not cool, I was expecting the above adapters too
Unless you meant the hwfly one.
That's why I'm saying get into reballling ull be way happier then before and install the mods properly
So my WS2812B-2020's came in finally, and I got a chance to crack open my right joycon to finish the LED mod. It works grand! Currently putting @abal1000x's rear-mounted Mosfet diagrams and @vulp_vibes LED mod diagrams in the next revision of the guide. Should be dropping it here in just a few, just wanted to share a few sneak peek photos and the video proof the working Joycon LED mod.
Update V.6.3 to the Definitive Guide is now live.
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Update V.6.3 to the Definitive Guide is now live.
Last edited by lightninjay,
ah, thank you for adding my led mod to the guide, but the issue with the joy-con intermittently not being detected in handheld mode for the non-lite install was never resolved, and as such I would ask that instructions for only the lite install be provided
Help - I’ve had no problem with my picofly’d lite for months. Today I rebooted the console and the screen stays black. The console is charged, the rp2040 goes blue to green, but nothing shows on the screen. What do I do?
thats gonna be ur issue there i would say, homestly try to start doing reballing the risk is pretty much 0 that u run into issue with that.
all the shitty dat0 adapters flowing around these days is cancer, u kann even order the ones that look good on the picture and then u get trash ones
The risk of killing the eMMC from shock is far greater than any harm DAT0 adapter would do. At least the harm the adapter would do can be mitigated. The harm you do with a heat gun is irreversible.
why is everybody talking about destroying the emmy with heat , if u do it correct there is no risk at all. as long as u dont trow 500°c on it u are fine.
if u know what u are doing there is now risk. how do u u think these chips get mounted?
if u know what u are doing there is now risk. how do u u think these chips get mounted?
Ok. I just tried removing the sd card. I power on, rp2040 glitches to blue, then green, but I still only get a black screen. I hold down the power button for 30 seconds after to make sure it’s powered off.
For me that's not an issue, I just refuse to spend extra time to get paid the same amount for the service, that's basically it. I'm fine with 1-2% returns for rework.
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Sounds to me you have a burned backlight unless your chip is acting up.
Which chip would be acting up? The rp2040 is flashing blue to green, are you talking about a chip on the motherboard?
The return that you get with dat0 adaptor is customers complaining about OFW booting, right? How do you resolve it? Just solder another?
I also got very curious when you said dat0 risk can be mitigated, how If I may ask?
My friend nintendo switch oled fix finally with replace 4.7 k ohm smd resistor. Thanks for every one try help me.... Love you 
Yep, I only replaced the adapters. I had one customer return a switch that I worked on more than 3 months ago. It had the Hwfly chip before RP2040 became common. The thing I noticed which I believe caused the issue was the flux that sat underneath the chip. I'm guessing the combination of moisture and this Amtech NC-559 I've used was the main cause of the problem. I've changed to 213 for easier clean but I still think having residue left can cause problems in this region, especially underneath the chips where its impossible to wipe without dropping it in an ultrasonic. I've replaced the adapter and the devices were back and running.
My only advice to you when using these adapters is to NEVER use any type of jelly flux near the eMMC. Wire and clean it before slipping it under the chip. For the anchors use those no-clean flux that leave no residue. You're going to thank me for this.
Thank you brother for the professional advice. My flux is as jellish as it gets.
My return rate has been crazy lately with OLEDs, this is how I do it:
1/Put solder mask on the two circular pads.
2/clean with IPA
3/Slip the adaptor and push it as far to the right as possible (trying to avoid dat1).
4/Measure, fix the two points above and the third pad next to the resistor.
5/ wire it, clean flux.
I'm going to do what you advised going forward. Wiring before slipping.
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if you removed the Emmc and soldered CMD, CLK, and DAT0 all at once, and combined that with the back MOSFET method. This means you won't even touch the APU. wouldn't you say this actually saves time?
Last edited by FreeLander,
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