Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Pretty certain my buddy's switch is an unpatched V1 and I'll be modding it within the next few days, but YES, this mod works on ALL versions of switch.
My concern is that the switch is already modded. You don’t think it’ll cause problems?
 
How would one go about requesting something to be added to the cfw, I wish we have the option to use 2 of the unused point on the rp2040 one for the RGB and one that we can use for the led on the home button that way we would need to replace the home button if we don't want the RGB function, anyone knows if that would be possible?
 
Pretty certain my buddy's switch is an unpatched V1 and I'll be modding it within the next few days, but YES, this mod works on ALL versions of switch.
Funnily - I just did the trinket mod on my V1... My RCM injector battery just did the expanding thing and so decided to make it internal.
Personally I prefer to stick with RCM on V1 - my sysnand is 6.2 and I don't want to touch OFW in any way.
 
Funnily - I just did the trinket mod on my V1... My RCM injector battery just did the expanding thing and so decided to make it internal.
Personally I prefer to stick with RCM on V1 - my sysnand is 6.2 and I don't want to touch OFW in any way.
Glad for you and all, but I will reiterate again, this is a Picofly mod thread, so any recommendations made by me in this thread will be for the Picofly, and related Picofly mods such as the remote LED mod that has recently come to light (pardon the pun).
 
Glad for you and all, but I will reiterate again, this is a Picofly mod thread, so any recommendations made by me in this thread will be for the Picofly, and related Picofly mods such as the remote LED mod that has recently come to light (pardon the pun).
Yeah fair point 😄

As to the LED mod - I'll be adding support for it in my open-source board - fly2040 - for those that will want it. 😊
 
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I will say, this dual mosfet install was after a failed install of a CSD85301Q2 package, which is supposed to be a dual-mosfet setup in one single package. I'm pretty sure it was just my own failure at soldering it, but it failed in pretty spectacular fashion (the 36awg wire I'm using burned itself in two in multiple places).

Thus I went back to the dual MOSFET setup that I am used to (as seen in the photo) and there have been no issues.
Just a further update on the CSD85301Q2 package. I am a bonehead and didn't do my diligence when looking at the diagram to take note of the fact that it states clearly "TOP VIEW AND CIRCUIT IMAGE". I wired it in 'deadbug' format, which mirrors that schematic vertically, which had me reversing the Drain and Source wires, which explains my burning wires. I feel more confident now that I could wire one properly, and likely will on my next Picofly install.

For posterity, here are the original diagram, and a modified "flipped" one by me. Top is the original, Bottom is the modified one for deadbug orientation.
CSD85301Q2.png

CSD85301Q2(Flipped).png

In hindsight, this is now CLEARLY backwards, because you can see the shape of the D1 pad in the incorrect orientation relative to the top schematic.
IMG_20230630_021407.jpg

This wiring caused several wires to burn clean in two, luckily it was only 36awg, so the wire sacrificed itself and nothing else seems to have been harmed. DO NOT WIRE THIS WAY, I will post correct photos once I wire one in successfully.
IMG_20230630_025113.jpg
EDIT:
Here is a mocked up edit in GIMP of the correction needed to make the wiring correct. Just wire the big pads to each individual cap on the APU and it should work.
CorrectedWiring.jpg
 
Last edited by lightninjay,
Just a further update on the CSD85301Q2 package. I am a bonehead and didn't do my diligence when looking at the diagram to take note of the fact that it states clearly "TOP VIEW AND CIRCUIT IMAGE". I wired it in 'deadbug' format, which mirrors that schematic vertically, which had me reversing the Drain and Source wires, which explains my burning wires. I feel more confident now that I could wire one properly, and likely will on my next Picofly install.

For posterity, here are the original diagram, and a modified "flipped" one by me. Top is the original, Bottom is the modified one for deadbug orientation.
View attachment 381240
View attachment 381241
In hindsight, this is now CLEARLY backwards, because you can see the shape of the D1 pad in the incorrect orientation relative to the top schematic.
View attachment 381243
This wiring caused several wires to burn clean in two, luckily it was only 36awg, so the wire sacrificed itself and nothing else seems to have been harmed. DO NOT WIRE THIS WAY, I will post correct photos once I wire one in successfully.
View attachment 381244
same gate control for dual mosfet? good stuff
 
So the switch is mostly working again now! CFW (emummc) works, OFW (sysnand) works.

I'm having some radio troubles though

* WiFi does not work
* Bluetooth does work

I've done some searching and examination of the board and identified this issue, which I'm assuming is the culprit.

1688278226347.png


1688278243476.png


1688278339805.png


It appears the outer capacitor (?) was completely destroyed. I cleaned things up somewhat, but need to replace the component. Can someone please tell me what it is exactly?

What size as well, I'm thinking 0201, but maybe not?

Thanks in advance :)
 
So the switch is mostly working again now! CFW (emummc) works, OFW (sysnand) works.

I'm having some radio troubles though

* WiFi does not work
* Bluetooth does work

I've done some searching and examination of the board and identified this issue, which I'm assuming is the culprit.

View attachment 381265

View attachment 381266

View attachment 381267

It appears the outer capacitor (?) was completely destroyed. I cleaned things up somewhat, but need to replace the component. Can someone please tell me what it is exactly?

What size as well, I'm thinking 0201, but maybe not?

Thanks in advance :)
Can confirm, these are 0201 100nf capacitors. You may be able to get away with just bridging that pad, but I personally replaced both of mine after I swiped my own off my original switch install.
IMG_20230408_160454.jpg
 
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Can confirm, these are 0201 100nf capacitors. You may be able to get away with just bridging that pad, but I personally replaced both of mine after I swiped my own off my original switch install.
View attachment 381268

Did you have wifi issues as a result? or did you fix them before closing up and testing?

I'm wondering if there is anything else I need to look for.
 
Did you have wifi issues as a result? or did you fix them before closing up and testing?

I'm wondering if there is anything else I need to look for.
These two lines cause wifi and bluetooth issues respectively. After replacing both capacitors, both wifi and bluetooth function were restored.
 
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Hello lovely community!
Has anyone tried and confirmed a good seller on Aliexpress for a high-quality Dat0 adaptors? I just got a new batch and it's all the bad ones.
 
Is it true that rp2040 Tiny (not zero) has already resistors on board. There also seems to be experiments avoiding to open cpu covers and remove thermal paste?
 
Is it true that rp2040 Tiny (not zero) has already resistors on board. There also seems to be experiments avoiding to open cpu covers and remove thermal paste?
Yes resistor are there, but you need to measure to make sure.
It should be 47ohms, in CMD, CLK, DAT0 pin.
People said if in the board theres "v1.1" which identified the correct resistance.
The earlier batch of rp2040-tiny have different resistor.


You could installing mosfet directly on the back of the pcb. Its easier since the cap you will soldered is bigger compared to the usual cpu's cap.
 
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Single Mosfet IRFHS8342 & NP2016 work fine on OLED & V2 Switch without SDA/SCL points
 

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Is it true that rp2040 Tiny (not zero) has already resistors on board. There also seems to be experiments avoiding to open cpu covers and remove thermal paste?
Yes it does,47 ohm, i just install it yesterday. Can you repost the schema for your version that dont need open cpu cover. Previous pic is quite hard to follow
About the led, i think that using pin in the rail is easier than the main board. Another idea like add another pin for the joycon led is also practical. Of course some modification in fw is needed to output led signal to another pin. The idea about speaker also interesting
1688297647382.png
 
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