Contact your seller, we don't support HWFLY hereI bought a hyfly chip with rp2040 and it came without the firmware installed, do you know if I can normally install the picofly firmware on it or if I have to modify some output (I'm using a nintendo switch v2)
Okay so you’re right, I opened up my switch and it looks like there’s a lost connection to the RST and potentially D0. Should I ask my modded to re-do the whole thing? The way he attached the resistors look different from how everyone does it.Oftenly as my exp all this inconsistency down to cleanness of wire solder&/instalation. If i were you i will just redo all the wires with more attention, then move on.
Sometime one unit just needs more attention/work just to make it reliable.
Also change/replace the mosfet while you at it.
woW, those pasta looks so fantasyOkay so you’re right, I opened up my switch and it looks like there’s a lost connection to the RST and potentially D0. Should I ask my modded to re-do the whole thing? The way he attached the resistors look different from how everyone does it.
just drag the fw into the chip like you do with rp2040 and it will work.I bought a hyfly chip with rp2040 and it came without the firmware installed, do you know if I can normally install the picofly firmware on it or if I have to modify some output (I'm using a nintendo switch v2)
simply DI/DO from rp2040 LED to PIN6 JRST on right rail fpc seems not able to turn on Home button LED, I think I am missing something
Those wires do look a little long too. Also I ran into a problem lately where my chip was shorting/reloading into heakte suddenly because it would touch the heatshield metal bracket every time i pressed the back part of the switch. Was so lucky that i pinned the problem down. Solder masked those points and fixed it. Potentially your problem too but man....how much did you pay for that job!? But I would say to him to reattach those wires properly rather than telling him to re-do the whole thing.Okay so you’re right, I opened up my switch and it looks like there’s a lost connection to the RST and potentially D0. Should I ask my modded to re-do the whole thing? The way he attached the resistors look different from how everyone does it.
Thank you but just look up few post before in thread. It was the first thing I ever did this morning even before I brush my tooth https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10195408@vulp_vibes already posted his diagram showing how he connected it. I'll just chime in to say that your approach to connecting to the rp2040 LED DO didn't work because Rehius's software assumes only one LED. These LEDs are actually serially addressable in a chain: the way you added the LED made it second in the chain. The RP2040 never sends a command to "LED #2" in the chain so the LED you added never turned on. If you would have connected to the rp2040 DI pin, it would have worked because there would have been two "LED #1's", and the two LEDs would always be the same color because they always receive the same color command.
These LEDs are actually really cool. You can buy them in strings that are hundred of LEDs long and address them individually with only one wire out of something like an ESP32 or Arduino. I have a strip around my monitor and around my desk with these things
Very nice, thank you for your efforts and detail diagrams.
And just did test on my v2 with rp2040zero led. The led is small enough no need to cut the cushion.
I will give a check in a minute when going back home.I did some further testing and noticed my console now has issues transitioning to wired connection when attaching the right joy-con, such as detaching the controller, manually turning it off with the sync button, and then reattaching it. it will not transition to wired mode and wake itself, in this scenario, and is not detected as wired until the DIN wire is disconnected from the rp2040 and the joy-con is reattached. does this occur for you? it may be an instability in this old v1 board that has been through many repairs, but if there is potential for an issue with this install method, then I will call it completely non-viable and only recommend the lite install
I paid $70 haha, he’s never done it before but had micro-soldering experience.Those wires do look a little long too. Also I ran into a problem lately where my chip was shorting/reloading into heakte suddenly because it would touch the heatshield metal bracket every time i pressed the back part of the switch. Was so lucky that i pinned the problem down. Solder masked those points and fixed it. Potentially your problem too but man....how much did you pay for that job!? But I would say to him to reattach those wires properly rather than telling him to re-do the whole thing.
Every chef has their own recipe.I paid $70 haha, he’s never done it before but had micro-soldering experience.
How about the resistors? Aren’t they awkwardly placed? I see people place them flat on the board, but it looks like he has them kinda hanging on the side.
quick test: I can't even have my right joycon switch to handheld mode/attach-in, with or without DI cable soldered.I did some further testing and noticed my console now has issues transitioning to wired connection when attaching the right joy-con, such as detaching the controller, manually turning it off with the sync button, and then reattaching it. it will not transition to wired mode and wake itself, in this scenario, and is not detected as wired until the DIN wire is disconnected from the rp2040 and the joy-con is reattached. does this occur for you? it may be an instability in this old v1 board that has been through many repairs, but if there is potential for an issue with this install method, then I will call it completely non-viable and only recommend the lite install
thank you for verifying; I deeply apologize for having posted instructions before fully checking all functionality. I will look further into the issue and update the method if I find a better solutionquick test: I can't even have my right joycon switch to handheld mode/attach-in, with or without DI cable soldered.
I tested with a non-LED mod joycon works.If I have DI solder, non-mod JOYCON won't go in hanheld, only wireless; without DI solder, non-LED mod just works fine.
No worry, keep it up. It is a fun &cool idea to have this modthank you for verifying; I deeply apologize for having posted instructions before fully checking all functionality. I will look further into the issue and update the method if I find a better solution
Price ain't bad. Yeah, resistor work is weird to put it side ways like that. Best of luck with it.I paid $70 haha, he’s never done it before but had micro-soldering experience.
How about the resistors? Aren’t they awkwardly placed? I see people place them flat on the board, but it looks like he has them kinda hanging on the side.
I paid $70 haha, he’s never done it before but had micro-soldering experience.
How about the resistors? Aren’t they awkwardly placed? I see people place them flat on the board, but it looks like he has them kinda hanging on the side.
Do you have any alternative fix for this. maybe using another pin for the signal.@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.
View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:
View attachment 380940
points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):
View attachment 380939View attachment 380936
edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward
View attachment 380957
U paid money for that?.Okay so you’re right, I opened up my switch and it looks like there’s a lost connection to the RST and potentially D0. Should I ask my modded to re-do the whole thing? The way he attached the resistors look different from how everyone does it.
It doesn't really matter how much u paide.I paid $70 haha, he’s never done it before but had micro-soldering experience.
How about the resistors? Aren’t they awkwardly placed? I see people place them flat on the board, but it looks like he has them kinda hanging on the side.