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I think I have a bad batch of mosfets.
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Sorry the mistake.
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Great. So this is a hardware issue, the code is solid. What do you think is the most stable programmer device?
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Me too. I just recently switched to a single MOSFET IR, It Works great.
Quick question. Has anyone recently had further experience with irf8736? Just got one, it's a chunky boy and I will fit a 1k pull down in the install but will have to trim the shield bridge but wanted to know any more info on people's experience with it.
And, does the aon7506 fit snug near the soc with out any need for trimming the metal seperating the ram and soc bit?
What do you recommend from an install and performance perspective between these two, seemingly, champ mosfets.
Appreciate it
And, does the aon7506 fit snug near the soc with out any need for trimming the metal seperating the ram and soc bit?
What do you recommend from an install and performance perspective between these two, seemingly, champ mosfets.
Appreciate it
The switch lite saga continues...after got bsod tought it was emmc...so installed the pico to load hekate and analyse the emmc... installed and got no sd screen (happy). But when i put the sd card with the files...the switch just get black screen....if i remove get a purple screen with some letters...any tip on what to do?
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Aparently it cant load hekate...
you're S.O.L at this point. That's a blue screen of death. As soon as you remove the chip it'll show the BSOD.
All 6 switches I did with that issue are donors now
DAT0 disconnected...
you can try yourself to install pico and not wiring dat0, it wil boot to ofw.
finally did one of these RP2040 installs; good learning experience after several years since my last SAMD21 install. went with a seeed xiao RP2040, dual mosfet. relocated the status LED to the front of the board where the (nearly) unused home button LED was, so it can act as an external status indicator. boot times seem good. quite pleased
edit: I have posted wiring diagrams for both the lite and normal switch for this status LED mod. feel free to let me know if you try it out
edit: I have posted wiring diagrams for both the lite and normal switch for this status LED mod. feel free to let me know if you try it out
Last edited by vulp_vibes,
If it is facedown then cannot install without cutting shield bridge. But if somehow you can isolate some part of mosfet Drain with kapton then you can do without cutting shield.Quick question. Has anyone recently had further experience with irf8736? Just got one, it's a chunky boy and I will fit a 1k pull down in the install but will have to trim the shield bridge but wanted to know any more info on people's experience with it.
And, does the aon7506 fit snug near the soc with out any need for trimming the metal seperating the ram and soc bit?
What do you recommend from an install and performance perspective between these two, seemingly, champ mosfets.
Appreciate it
For pulldown resistor even with 10K sometime(sometime) it will give longer glitch or even failed. So i leave it for now, until i can find higher r value.
Go with this one if you can. The best so far.
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Wow .. nice job.. will try to move the led to this also.. but i dont know if i want to diaseemmble the whole board just to install the led, considering all those flexs and connectors.
Btw where is the original home button led?
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
I completely removed the home button LED; it was originally on the two pads on the right side of where the RP2040's status LED is now. the top pad is constant 3.3V, which is convenient as the status LED needs that as well. the bottom pad is a switched ground to control the original home button LED; I repurposed this to break out and connect the data line of the status LED. I then manually ran a ground wire directly to the status LED. in the extremely unlikely event that nintendo further utilizes the notification feature and the home button LED "turns on" with my status LED in place, no ill should happen, as it would only be grounding the data in pin while the status LED is not in use.
I had a new successful installs since I last posted but now I'm running into an issue again 
I am getting the ** (RST not connected error) on a switch lite.
Maybe coincidentally, this is the first time I'm trying an installation without MOSFETs. I am using a cheap flex cable from AliExpress.
I understand the ** error appears when the voltage from RST is not 1.6v. The issue is I have a good connection to RST but the voltage is too low. I measure 0.9v from RST when I turn the system on.
Any advice?
I am getting the ** (RST not connected error) on a switch lite.
Maybe coincidentally, this is the first time I'm trying an installation without MOSFETs. I am using a cheap flex cable from AliExpress.
I understand the ** error appears when the voltage from RST is not 1.6v. The issue is I have a good connection to RST but the voltage is too low. I measure 0.9v from RST when I turn the system on.
Any advice?
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I kind of lazy to open the shield. Might update it, when have a chance.
My body sick lately, will play on software right now, than hardware.
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0.9v is too low, theres might be some short circuit somewhere.I had a new successful installs since I last posted but now I'm running into an issue again
I am getting the ** (RST not connected error) on a switch lite.
Maybe coincidentally, this is the first time I'm trying an installation without MOSFETs. I am using a cheap flex cable from AliExpress.
I understand the ** error appears when the voltage from RST is not 1.6v. The issue is I have a good connection to RST but the voltage is too low. I measure 0.9v from RST when I turn the system on.
Any advice?
If 1.8 is considered high bit than half of it 0.9 is considered low bit.
Are you sure with that RST voltage (0.9v) everything works normally? Such that OFW working normally, reboot normally, etc.
No, OFW is not working. Im not sure where to begin diagnosing the short. Could the cheap flex CPU cable cause this somehow?
i've never heard someone have problem with cpu flex cable.
The common problem is usually short circuit.
Theres lot of thing you might check, for example on picofly board.
1. Check resistance between 'cpu pin' on pico with GND.
If its around 20-60 ohms its okay, if its around 0-5ohms, its shorted.
2. Check continuity between RST and other pin. Do the same thing on CLK, CMD, Dat0.
3. Use microscope and examine the board, especially the place that you modded. Search for something that looks shorted, or something that might ripped.
Actually the emmc brand should not have any effect, they are following industry standart afterall.
I cannot image that big N need to tune the firmware somehow to compensate the difference,, it wil only say you follow or you out, but this also unnecessary, because we are talking about big global memory vendor here.
For difference in initial training then it should only come down from the Random Array function when preparing first glitch .. as it is random then it can take any time, from short to long time depending on the result of the randomize function.
Can we see a pic of your single mosfets? I can’t get a single to work to save my life lol
Thats also what i always talking is.
The datasheet is so clear, that all number is similar.
But who knows, i know some manufacture tampering the datasheet. Its "common practice". Someone who have work on this field, understand what i am talking about. Especially when the manufacturer is not famous.
Also people saying toshiba this, toshiba that. But still i dont find a solid prove that toshiba did have issue on emmc. As a researcher, i don't discarded this info, but noted it.
Thats the initial stage. To make the search of the offset faster, make it random. But after the offset found, it will be recorded. And the next boot will use from the recorded first.
Every successfull glitched, the offset will be recorded. It will save the count number the glitched offset success.
For example:
10000: 10 success
10010: 4 success
....
The algorithm will take the most success first, then the others.
And the record will be "locked" when theres offset that has been hit the 'maximum' success which is 2048 success.
I also consider to make the picofly repeatedly reboot until it got maxiumum success programatically.
The algorithm is already good. The improvement might be the OFFSET_DIV change to 1, but it will be slower than using 10.
I also see in the code for every glitch, the offset will be shifted a little bit by a random number. I might remove this code. I once made a government simulation about oil spill. And this random stuff usually forbidden to be used. Since it make the simulation not repeatable. Its less scientific.
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I suspect that your solder joint on the cap is not enough.
The maximum current will be clamped by how much is the joint could deliver the current.
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