Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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lol good point. Just saw the shop price and $10 for essentially (for us) to add clk and cmd point in a convenient place. Not to mention the ~2week wait for delivery from China. Good point indeed...

View attachment 379188

the most important point is that unlike all other dat0 adapters, it's a proper and permanent install.
 
Can someone tell me which resistor and which side is actually the right place to solder the CPU signal wire in this photo? Because looking through this thread one person says its the middle one, this photo says its the top one, and another guy says its actually the bottom resistor. But no one gave any reason so I don't know who is right or if it even matters / why it matters.
 

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Can someone tell me which resistor and which side is actually the right place to solder the CPU signal wire in this photo? Because looking through this thread one person says its the middle one, this photo says its the top one, and another guy says its actually the bottom resistor. But no one gave any reason so I don't know who is right or if it even matters / why it matters.
Because they all same, middle resistor is 0 ohm, and top and bottom resistor all connect to the middle one
 
Hey guys, about the new Picofly Tiny, is it still needed to add 47ohms, same pinout too ?
The "New" rp2040-Tiny (specifically the v1.1 versions) will have the correct 47 ohm resistors preinstalled, no need to add additional unless you get slow emmc issues.

However, there are likely still some old rp2040-Tiny's being sold, and they would not be silk-screened with v1.1 on the board. Those will have 470 ohm resistors that would need to be removed and replaced with 47 ohms resistors.

Read the definitive guide for details on where these resistors are located on the board.
 
That's it.

Oled clk is 1/4 the size of a slim 360 pll point.

Also I've seen plenty of failed rgh3 attempts, people dont have the right equiment or are impatient and mess up... short a wire they shouldn't etc etc.

Just cause a mod is cheap doesn't make it easy.
I can scratch and connect that C5R35 point real easy. Is the switch really that simple?
 
This thread isn't about HWFLY... You won't see people reporting HWFLY related issues here and you won't get much help by derailing the thread as a result of that either. Read the thread. The whole thing is about the Picofly modchip and firmware.
I don't want to derail anything.
I thought hwfly stuff could be discussed here and I didn't even knew that hwfly was so unliked among the community!

I've seen quite big threads about hwfly previous modchips and never saw people unliking this much!
 
I don't want to derail anything.
I thought hwfly stuff could be discussed here and I didn't even knew that hwfly was so unliked among the community!

I've seen quite big threads about hwfly previous modchips and never saw people unliking this much!

People dislike hwfly because they used to overcharge heavily for it because there were no other options. Picofly is the reason hwfly has become rather cheap lately.

And this thread is about picofly, so hwfly questions should be asked elsewhere.
 
People dislike hwfly because they used to overcharge heavily for it because there were no other options. Picofly is the reason hwfly has become rather cheap lately.

And this thread is about picofly, so hwfly questions should be asked elsewhere.

Sure, no probz... Won't come to this thread again!
 
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what version on the back of the rp2040-tiny from first video? what FW did you use?

I'm having my rp2040-tiny order on the way, will install on my fresh OLED and do a battery current-draw bootup chart when I have time.
In use, it is no different from ZERO
Currently configured OLED
Firmware :2.74 + I2C SDA=12, SCL=13

V2 or Lite configuration
Firmware: 2.74 without I2C link
 

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Has anyone found a way to fit the rp2040 zero into the lite without de-soldering the usb-c port or hacking up the metal heatspreader/shield? Ive heard of people leaving the buttons on, but as for the port, I haven't seen anything. Is it just impossible? Also. are there any locations people tend to place it?
 
Has anyone found a way to fit the rp2040 zero into the lite without de-soldering the usb-c port or hacking up the metal heatspreader/shield? Ive heard of people leaving the buttons on, but as for the port, I haven't seen anything. Is it just impossible? Also. are there any locations people tend to place it?
My first lite I cut the acustic channel of the left speaker. The speaker works fine without it
1687405636600.png
 

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