The hwfly cpu flex? I could add it, but the final board is going to be substantially smaller, so might not have the space. Also I figured with the mosfet mounted on this board two with two small wires to the capacitors positive terminal would be easy enough, I personally don't like using the flexs
Yup, without Dat0 wires connected to pico it should boot straight to ofw, so the problem lies somewhere else or move to somewhere else (emmc corrupt?).
Just try to desolder everything from pico and hope it will boot normally.
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Yup, that will result in black screen.
If Cmd ripped out it will result purple screen.
For fix : use the thinnest wire you can found (0.01 is prefered), non enameled, Pre tin it, and make a tin blob on the solder tip, use as much flux you like, then start soldering.. only one second solder touch is needed.. you can know its conected if you cannot pull the wire.
First target is to solder the wire on to broken pads.. after that done, solder the other end of wire to good pad.
If the switch can boot, you can continue the mod using alternate dat0 point.
I will recommend on curing the pad after fix it with uv mask, so, no way that will be damage again i think (if i'm incorrect, you can say it without fear )
Hi everyone, I would like to buy a new tip for modding in future. After struggling with my too big solder tip, I found this one
View attachment 377783 View attachment 377784
Is it suitable for this kind of modding? Or have any better replacement? Im in Asia so shopee or aliexpress is a prefer. Thank you.
I have been using t12 iron for so long that far away behind modern fancy JBC stuff. something like this
I have C1 shape for mostly jumper wire or pad repair and often time just bc1.5/bc2 for all other SMD work. When removing or pretinning pads, use bigger one like C4 or blade type tip.
The hwfly cpu flex? I could add it, but the final board is going to be substantially smaller, so might not have the space. Also I figured with the mosfet mounted on this board two with two small wires to the capacitors positive terminal would be easy enough, I personally don't like using the flexs
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And yeah the boards will be ready to install, preflashed with the latest stable firmware
You would find solder ball makes life easier when your bga chip size go larger.
I have both for emmc reball. Not much difference in this case but only takes me extra effort putting back remaining balls when I am cheap and don't wanna waste any single one of them.
I have been using t12 iron for so long that far away behind modern fancy JBC stuff. something like this
I have C1 shape for mostly jumper wire or pad repair and often time just bc1.5/bc2 for all other SMD work. When removing or pretinning pads, use bigger one like C4 or blade type tip.
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It seems theres little bit copper in there you might be could soldered it to join the connection. Maybe with a little bit wire in there. After that use the alt point D0 for lite (in right area)
Yup, that will result in black screen.
If Cmd ripped out it will result purple screen.
For fix : use the thinnest wire you can found (0.01 is prefered), non enameled, Pre tin it, and make a tin blob on the solder tip, use as much flux you like, then start soldering.. only one second solder touch is needed.. you can know its conected if you cannot pull the wire.
First target is to solder the wire on to broken pads.. after that done, solder the other end of wire to good pad.
If the switch can boot, you can continue the mod using alternate dat0 point.
Well, I made some progress, I believe I achieved a positive result. What about?
The multimeter measurements for the post-repaired Dat0 point (diode mode) is 0.655, is that good? I really don't know what the default readings for switch lite are.
I had a spark of hope that soon dissipated, the switch lite didn't turn on. Any tips on how to proceed?
The multimeter measurements for the post-repaired Dat0 point (diode mode) is 0.655, is that good? I really don't know what the default readings for switch lite are.
I had a spark of hope that soon dissipated, the switch lite didn't turn on. Any tips on how to proceed?
Hello there.
I've installed one RP2040-Zero on a Lite and it have a weird glitching time.
If i let it off for a few hours, the next glitch will take up to 10 seconds, whereas if i turn it on after a few minutes, it will glitch in under 5 seconds.
Hello there.
I've installed one RP2040-Zero on a Lite and it have a weird glitching time.
If i let it off for a few hours, the next glitch will take up to 10 seconds, whereas if i turn it on after a few minutes, it will glitch in under 5 seconds.
So I did some research. These resistors on an OLED CMD should show 4.7k and 47 ohms right? Mine showed no value when tested and in diode they show 350 one way, 750 the other. This means they've blown? (I have a black screen when booting).
If so what size are the resistors so I can order new ones and can a faulty CPU flex cable install cause them to blow? I still need to work out what happened.
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