I have a lot of tape left, I won't change it for nowSeeing your attention to detail, i would suggest you get some blue solder mask and use it to insulate instead of kapton
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrW3gky
All depends on the skills and knowledge of the modders.Has anyone here been unsuccessful doing one of these mods no matter what they tried? Are all switches truly moddable or will there be exceptions?
Its high possibility its shorted when you put the shield.I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wall every time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.
Its high possibility its shorted when you put the shield.
I can only advise, to search it.
Its common problem, i experience it all the time.
If you want safe just use insulated wire, enameled wire is difficult to ev
Everything is covered. Idk how it’s possibly shortingIts high possibility its shorted when you put the shield.
I can only advise, to search it.
Its common problem, i experience it all the time.
If you want safe just use insulated wire, enameled wire is difficult to detect.
If its not the last heat shield (the biggest one that cover whole pcb), then you might check it using multimeter, on each point in the pico board for short circuit with the GND.Everything is covered. Idk how it’s possibly shorting
Nothing is shorted to ground, to each other, or anything else.If its not the last heat shield (the biggest one that cover whole pcb), then you might check it using multimeter, on each point in the pico board for short circuit with the GND.
Theres one left solution, add resistor 47 ohm (so total around 100ohm) to the Dat0 to reduce noise.Nothing is shorted to ground, to each other, or anything else.
Do what to the DAT0 line?Theres one left solution, add resistor 47 ohm (so total around 100ohm) to the Dat0 to reduce noise.
You could also placing the D0 cable so that it doesn't near the G-mosfet line (pin 15), to reduce interferences.
Nothing is shorted to ground, to each other, or anything else.
Then you need to post detailed photos of your install, because plenty of people have been claiming "perfect install, but still have problem!" and then when photos surface of their install... we'll just say it isn't always so "perfect".
Add another 47ohm such that the total resistance around 100ohms.Do what to the DAT0 line?
But the DAT0 and pin 15 are on opposite ends of the pico. I just added the resistor and it didn’t make a difference.Add another 47ohm such that the total resistance around 100ohms.
If your D0 cable touching the pin 15 (the G mosfet) (but not Short Circuit cause theres enameled on it), then try to reposition it, such that the cable not touching the pin 15. The purposes is to reduce noise that might occured.
That is more reason you need to get it back , in the end we all can learn something new if you able to fix it hands on.I don't want to insist, also because since I don't have the console here I can't be sure that everything is fine.
I want to specify, however, that this is the second time this has happened to me.
My installations are all the same, I attach photos.
To solve, the test time it happened to me I replaced the Rp2040, without touching the existing welds.
I specify that the replaced rp2040, I reused it once flashed again.
So I have my doubts, surely I can say that I have not encountered any problems with the fw 2.67, I don't know if it can be something from the fw with the rp2040 taken from aliexpress for a few euros / dollars.
I have installed 2 mosfets a few times, the other times always single mosfet, hooked on double capacitor.
Can't I do anything to reset the rp2040 gliches?
I mean, I'm confident in my job.
I might be wrong, but I doubt it, I think there is something firmware/hardware wrong.
(excuse my english by Google).
Any diff on the result, like glitch time? or switch will light up?Make a u-shaped cable around the cap, so got twice the maximum current its flows.
Can we know the reason that you still need to trimdown zero pcb?OLED
Pico W have wireless, i havent tried that yet, but i think you still can trim it like non-W pico.i ordered 3 raspberry pi pico because other models are not common in my country but seller sent me raspberry pi pico w. is there any way to use this one by cutting it as normal pi pico?
Please dont do that , juts rip the metal shield then throw it away and install the back cover.. job done. no ripped hair casualties .I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wall every time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.
I use the problematic cable i bought recently on aliexpress 0.2mm.Any diff on the result, like glitch time? or switch will light up?
Ah yes you right. Its RST line near it.But the DAT0 and pin 15 are on opposite ends of the pico. I just added the resistor and it didn’t make a difference.
Highly suspect for cold join issue there. Can you try to use normal/wrapping no enameled wires?Just put it back together to shoot a photo. It now is a constant blue light weather or not the shield is on.