Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

  • Thread starter Thread starter mathew77
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 3,673,764
  • Replies Replies 17,052
  • Likes Likes 15
Hey i just had a look at this thread and saw that it was recomended to get it done by a professional, would this mean sending my switch somewhere or would a high street repair place be able to do it.
i u never solderd u should get some proffesional help .
most of the real smartphone repairs/computer rapairs with soldering equipment kann do it im not talking about the ones who just raplace displays or batteries ;.)
 
Yes, the right soldering iron and flux can solve a large part of the problem.
The optimal temperature of the electric soldering iron is about 300~350 °C
Post automatically merged:


View attachment 361453
A rather sharp pair of tweezers is also needed!!!
Compared to my quick861 and 2UUL tweezers your setup is huge lol
Post automatically merged:

Could anyone make a dedicated post (or sticky it if one exists) on a definitive guide about how to acquire and solder a Pikofly to a Switch Lite?
Yeah I have a couple switchs in for repair, if not done by time I’m back working next week then I will do one for v1/v2 and lite
Post automatically merged:

looks like stubborn Toshiba eMMC, still waiting for samples to analyze
Let me know what you need I have lots of boards, cpus with Emmc, donor boards, consoles etc. Can let you know
 
Last edited by TechCentreUK,
  • Like
Reactions: Ricky_25
If you are in the UK I can do it for you
Post automatically merged:


Compared to my quick861 and 2UUL tweezers your setup is huge lol
Post automatically merged:


Yeah I have a couple switchs in for repair, if not done by time I’m back working next week then I will do one for v1/v2 and lite
Post automatically merged:


Let me know what you need I have lots of boards, cpus with Emmc, donor boards, consoles etc. Can let you know
Sent you a pm mate about installation
 
Yes, just cleaning up thermal paste on other switch jobs.
I like to get rid of factory. Using Thermal-grizzly paste to replace.

I will try and explain about getting the chip to sit low.
Take the top APU/RAM shield, cut the RAM side of it off.
Then cut off where the RAM shield (you just cut away) would clip onto the metal to Switch's board (the thin metal piece left over).

The chip should then find a home in that area and almost sit in between the other chips.
Just dont forget to insulate the bottom of the Picofly.

I then used the same pair of sharp small scissors to cut out the big main metal shield that screws onto the back of the Switch.
The area where the chip is now sitting.

Insulate the top of the chip with kapton tape in-case the shielding touches the top of the Picofly chip once that big main shield goes back on top.


Ant

Thanks, once you said you 'didn't have any internal pics' though, I 'just did it'. Nearly exactly the same way as you describe here, I just went too far w\ an alternative idea because I didn't double check what you did. I'll upload pics of my mad project(s) soon.
 
Apparently the two normal Pi Picos I have on hand are B2 and E6 6 so perhaps it's time to try horrible things.
Update: not the things I had in mind but it worked
 

Attachments

  • 20230401_191456.jpg
    20230401_191456.jpg
    730.2 KB · Views: 74
  • 20230401_191520.jpg
    20230401_191520.jpg
    599.7 KB · Views: 58
Got my mosfets today but I found it very hard to solder the mosfet directly to the cap:wacko:. Later I used the GPIO pins that comes with zero, pretty easy to solder. I only connected to the cap on the right side and it works fine.
One side of the capacitor is GND, so you don't need to solder to the GND side of the cap, you can just solder to any GND instead - that's why it works.
 

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum