Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[ThiagoDaruma]

If the nosd screen shows, means the emmc is okay.
The nosd code is uploaded from the picofly TO the emmc once (the white light).

And the one who run the nosd and shows the image is the CPU.
So both emmc and CPU is okay or atleast partially okay.

Something else broken.

I'm really excited about this, any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem?

 

[_kedo_]

I'm really excited about this, any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem?

secondary PMIC MAX77812 was a culprit in my case, did you checked it already?

https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10346964

 

[superxoi]

secondary PMIC MAX77812 was a culprit in my case, did you checked it already?

https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10346964

Knocking off pmic is a beginner fault(trying to open the shield and causing damage to PMIC) . He said he did over 100 so i excluded that possibility.

 

[ThiagoDaruma]

secondary PMIC MAX77812 was a culprit in my case, did you checked it already?

https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10346964

i haven't even touched this component. but it looks chipped, i'll try to replace it.

 

[_kedo_]

i haven't even touched this component. but it looks chipped, i'll try to replace it.

yep, chipped the same corner as mine. This is the reason of your BSOD

 

[ThiagoDaruma]

yep, chipped the same corner as mine. This is the reason of your BSOD

the problem is that i don't have any switch lite donors here. i'll have to buy from aliexpress and wait about 15 days.
i hope that's it.

if i'm not mistaken there isn't this ci on v1 and v2 boards, right? their power controller is the max77620 if i'm not mistaken.

thank you very much!

 

[superxoi]

the problem is that i don't have any switch lite donors here. i'll have to buy from aliexpress and wait about 15 days.
i hope that's it.

if i'm not mistaken there isn't this ci on v1 and v2 boards, right? their power controller is the max77620 if i'm not mistaken.

thank you very much!

PMIC on v2,lite,oled are the same except v1.

 

[ThiagoDaruma]

i've removed it, cleaned the entire board. it looks like it's him. i bought some on aliexpress. now wait for it to arrive and forget about it for a while.

 

[Viktorsilva]

Is this the dat0 or I hit the wrong spot? I just notice the three dots is not aligned with the solder point.

The diode value I get is about 560

Post automatically merged: Jan 31, 2024

Is this the dat0 or I hit the wrong spot? I just notice the three dots is not aligned with the solder point.

The diode value I get is about 560

it looks Dat0 to me. one way to be 100% shure is installing a temporary dat0 adapter on Nand and check for continuity test.

Post automatically merged: Jan 31, 2024

I bought a faulty Switch Lite with the same problem as you described. Guy tried to install hwfly RP2040(look at photo) and end up with broken console.

Spoiler: hwly rp2040

View attachment 417302

He broke CMD line and SP2 capacitor. With broken CMD line and without chip console looks totally dead just a black screen when you try to turn it on. After CMD line was restored i got a BLUE screen. Looking to a board under a microscope i found MAX77812 having a crack underneath where phase 3 is located. As far as i understand phase 3 is used for SDRAM I/O(VDDq rail). No voltages were on other phases(L1+L2 GPU, and L4 CPU)

Spoiler: broken MAX77812 PMIC

View attachment 417304

Don't know how this happened. Is something wrong with the hwly chip, or a guy physically damaged this chip somehow, or shorted VBAT to this component. Long story short after removal this PMIC and installing a new one from Ali this console works just fine.

what a wonderfull tip . Very accurate

 

[FreeLander]

I've had good results with SK and Samsung reballs, but Toshiba seems to be more sensitive. Two went bust after trying to reball.

I do 350C one minute then 400C for 10 sec to remove it, 350C to put it back on. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Mr Skinner]

I have my oled switch with a strange error. I installed Picofly without any problems, I was able to boot Hekate, I made all the backups, I ran the EMMC speed test, without low speed. The problem is when you choose to boot it on either Emunand or OFW. Both result in a COMPLETE black screen. No Nintendo/Atmosphere logo, no Switch logo...]

Could anyone help?

 

[psycho-neon]

T

I have my oled switch with a strange error. I installed Picofly without any problems, I was able to boot Hekate, I made all the backups, I ran the EMMC speed test, without low speed. The problem is when you choose to boot it on either Emunand or OFW. Both result in a COMPLETE black screen. No Nintendo/Atmosphere logo, no Switch logo...]

Could anyone help?

Try making dat0 and cmd line resistor to 100ohm. Happens to me when I was modding 1 switch, the device boots to hekate but never on ofw/emummc. I changed the resistors and problem sovled

 

[superxoi]

I have my oled switch with a strange error. I installed Picofly without any problems, I was able to boot Hekate, I made all the backups, I ran the EMMC speed test, without low speed. The problem is when you choose to boot it on either Emunand or OFW. Both result in a COMPLETE black screen. No Nintendo/Atmosphere logo, no Switch logo...]

Could anyone help?

Is it samsung emmc variant?

Post automatically merged: Feb 1, 2024

I've had good results with SK and Samsung reballs, but Toshiba seems to be more sensitive. Two went bust after trying to reball.

I do 350C one minute then 400C for 10 sec to remove it, 350C to put it back on. Any suggestions are appreciated.

At 400c the you can take the unleaded emmc off in 10-12s. So the 1' preheating is meaningless. Just do the heating quick friend. The components don't like suffering too much.

 

[Viktorsilva]

I have my oled switch with a strange error. I installed Picofly without any problems, I was able to boot Hekate, I made all the backups, I ran the EMMC speed test, without low speed. The problem is when you choose to boot it on either Emunand or OFW. Both result in a COMPLETE black screen. No Nintendo/Atmosphere logo, no Switch logo...]

Could anyone help?

wich resistors did you installed on CMD,CLK and DAT0 ?

 

[Switxh]

Hello! Haven't kept upto date with thread for a while but I have a Switch OLED with a Picofly installed that was using a DAT0 adapter and I hadn't used it in a while but when I went to use it again it was just booting straight to OFW and giving me the 1 long 1 short pulse for dat0 not connected. So I decided to reball the EMMC and install a permanent dat0.

Now after the reball the console still boots straight to OFW but now I get 1 short pulse and 1 long pulse for CMD is not connected. The connections between the Picofly and the CMD resistor seem fine but am I wrong in thinking the reball isn't the problem if the console still boots OFW? Because if CMD from the EMMC wasn't connected it wouldn't boot right? Or is it possible for CMD to be shorted to the surrounding CLK or VCC / VDD and still boot OFW? I would have thought if there was a bridge with between CMD and anything surrounding it then it wouldn't boot.

I just don't want to subject the board and nand to another reball if I don't have to. And from my limited knowledge I assume if the console boots OFW then the reball isn't the problem. But I don't know! Any help is appreciated!

 

[karatefeet]

hi guys, how are you? well. i've got a switch lite, i've installed the rp2040 zero, as usual, i've done hundreds of them.
I measured everything and made sure there was nothing shorted, clean installation and no problems. the chip started as it should, accessed the hekate. but when I tried to access the original system I got a blue screen.
I removed the entire installation, cleaned everything and the blue screen persists.

any idea what might have happened?

edit:
when connecting with rp2040 it shows "No Sd card" screen
when I insert the Sd I get a black screen.
I've removed everything, cleaned all the contacts and I still get the blue screen.

I have the same problem on a Lite as well. Sadly my problem wasn't the MAX77812 as I've replaced it but still have the blue screen.

Bluescreen after modding means that you fucked your emmc the cpu could not negotiate with your emmc and gave you that code. Every solid color has there own solution except orange 'unknown exception' which i am desperating to solve on my 2$ board now. If you are lucky enough your emmc just be panicked at this time and will recover at sometime in a few days(if this is the case,back up your emmc immediately) .If you are unlucky at least you can rebuild your emmc. The catch is that the console will be banned.

Post automatically merged: Jan 31, 2024

Your problem now reside on your emmc which is corrupted by your modding . removing does nothing now.

I have some blank nands coming and will try putting a new one on. Hopefully it's just a corrupted nand but I don't understand why it would work on another console but not the original console? This I've tested myself to confirm.

 

[abal1000x]

Hello! Haven't kept upto date with thread for a while but I have a Switch OLED with a Picofly installed that was using a DAT0 adapter and I hadn't used it in a while but when I went to use it again it was just booting straight to OFW and giving me the 1 long 1 short pulse for dat0 not connected. So I decided to reball the EMMC and install a permanent dat0.

Now after the reball the console still boots straight to OFW but now I get 1 short pulse and 1 long pulse for CMD is not connected. The connections between the Picofly and the CMD resistor seem fine but am I wrong in thinking the reball isn't the problem if the console still boots OFW? Because if CMD from the EMMC wasn't connected it wouldn't boot right? Or is it possible for CMD to be shorted to the surrounding CLK or VCC / VDD and still boot OFW? I would have thought if there was a bridge with between CMD and anything surrounding it then it wouldn't boot.

I just don't want to subject the board and nand to another reball if I don't have to. And from my limited knowledge I assume if the console boots OFW then the reball isn't the problem. But I don't know! Any help is appreciated!

If you can boot to OFW (until the game selector shows), then the cpu could read cmd, dat0, clk correctly. The line between emmc to the cpu is okay, no short, no cmd resistor broken, etc.

Theres couple of scenario on my head:
1. Check the connection between the cmd point on the switch mainboard to the picofly cmd resistor.
2. Check the cmd resistor on the picofly.
3. Make sure the power supplied the picofly are 3.3V and its the known good point in the forum.
4. Maybe the picofly board fault.

 

[superxoi]

I have the same problem on a Lite as well. Sadly my problem wasn't the MAX77812 as I've replaced it but still have the blue screen.

I have some blank nands coming and will try putting a new one on. Hopefully it's just a corrupted nand but I don't understand why it would work on another console but not the original console? This I've tested myself to confirm.

As i mentioned before. Knocking off pmic is beginner fault so i didn't think you could make this mistake too. Your emmc is not dead so it will work with other console not linked to it. The cpu on your original console will take information from the nand. If the nand is corrupted it will give you bluescreen.
You can even extract the nand by mmcblk tool how many times that you like(which i did) but if it is corrupted even you restore it on a new emmc the console will show you bluescreen again.

 

[Switxh]

If you can boot to OFW (until the game selector shows), then the cpu could read cmd, dat0, clk correctly. The line between emmc to the cpu is okay, no short, no cmd resistor broken, etc.

Theres couple of scenario on my head:
1. Check the connection between the cmd point on the switch mainboard to the picofly cmd resistor.
2. Check the cmd resistor on the picofly.
3. Make sure the power supplied the picofly are 3.3V and its the known good point in the forum.
4. Maybe the picofly board fault.

Thanks for your response! Yeah it boots all the way to the game selector. I checked through system settings and stuff a few times and all seemed fully working in the OFW side. But thanks to your suggestions I have some places to start now. Tomorrow I will try replacing the 47ohm CMD resistor on the Picofly and change the wire too just incase. For the 3.3v I used the one from the capacitors near the fan connector. Picofly seems to get power every time but I will remove solder mask and check readings properly tomorrow too. Cheers!

 

[superxoi]

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