Thank you very much appreciatedI will measure mine. One sec.
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I’m gonna go w/ .5mm. :-)
Thank you very much appreciatedI will measure mine. One sec.
Post automatically merged:
View attachment 360439
I’m gonna go w/ .5mm. :-)
Could be that. Like 80 Ohm instead of 47. The wire length really shouldn't matter. But Toshiba is pretty stubborn, you could just get lucky. Once you have several boots, the statistics works for you. First glitching can be long, up to few minutes.So you need some extra resistance for the Toshibas?
Yes, both central wires should go same place, you can check that.Hi guys, may i ask about this ribbon cable. Can I still solder the CPU wire from RP2040 to the blue arrow ? I accidentally broke the one on red arrow.
There is waveshare zero schematics for details. The closest 4 caps around the chip are 100nF
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I meant on the apus :-)
I will measure mine. One sec.
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I’m gonna go w/ .5mm. :-)
this looks amazing, thank you for the link!For those trying to save space and not wanting to remove buttons or the usb port - This should also work,
Pimoroni PGA2040
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pga2040
https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/pga2040-an-rp2040-breakout-board
yes, that was in my future plans. this requires really good design to avoid soft-bricks during the update like hwfly. (I have one)I might ask a super stupid question. Is it possibly to talk with their rp2040 from the Switch to update the firmware without opening it to update via the usb?
hi can you tell me on witch pad the wire is soldered on the v2 flex cable Pad 3 or pad 4? Also is it the same pad on flex cable v1? Thank you!UL10064 awg36
pad 3 and 4 goes to the same tracehi can you tell me on witch pad the wire is soldered on the v2 flex cable Pad 3 or pad 4? Also is it the same pad on flex cable v1? Thank you!
the rp2040 update function without opening the console will be niceyes, that was in my future plans. this requires really good design to avoid soft-bricks during the update like hwfly. (I have one)