OTG, external HDD and exploit questions

[Windows_10_User]

There is nothing to worry about unless the power supply is junk (tho a low amperage one that is junk is just as dangerous). As long as it is a 5v power supply that meets the minimum amps you need you are fine. The supply could be 5v 10a and it won't hurt your HDD or PSC. A power supply's amperage is the MAX it can provide. It doesn't force the full amount to your devices. There is ZERO harm in having extra amps available.

Your only concerns should be if it is a decent quality and that it is ONLY 5v, not 5v & 9v or 5v, 9v & 12v like QC 2.0 and QC3.0 chargers are.

I am in the US, so I would just be guessing as to what is a good European power supply.

So, my order got cancelled and I ordered a 5V 3A QC3.0 power supply. Non-QC's on Amazon can't be shipped to my country.

 

[esmith13]

So, my order got cancelled and I ordered a 5V 3A QC3.0 charger.

I'll cross my fingers that you don't fry anything with that...

 

[Windows_10_User]

I'll cross my fingers that you don't fry anything with that...

May it fry the PSC or just the power supply (or both)?

I forgot to ask but do you know if the PS1 game compatibility is better in AutoBleem on the PSC, in POPStarter on the PS2 or on the PS3?

 

[godreborn]

I wouldn't buy that otg adapter like on the first page (the right angled one). I'd buy one that kinda looks like a squid with two long cables attached to a base. I only use an otg cable with the snes and genesis minis. the nes mini has big enough internal storage to hold the entire US library. anyway, I've had the right angled otg adapter before, and randomly it would not be detected. I had this problem with a different otg adapter as well, but the adapter I described works every time. personally, I'd just use a usb flash drive in the second port. never had a problem with that. I think the folder on the root needs to be named Sony iirc.

 

[esmith13]

Why? It's 5V and 3A. Can it fry the PSC or just the adapter (or both)?

I forgot to ask but do you know if the PS1 games compatibility is better on the PSC or on POPStarter or PS3 CFW?

QC3.0 chargers are at the very least 5v & 9v and usually they are 5v, 9v & 12v.
Most if not all manufacturers of 5v only devices (like your PSC & HDD) recommend you don't use anything that can supply over 5v because if the charger isn't smart enough to know better it may send more than 5v to your devices. TECHNICALLY it should stay at 5v unless your device tells the charger it can handle more but it seems no one trusts (or at least no one will guarantee) that it will.

If you mean PS1 compatibility as to say "more games load/play correctly on one device or the other", then a modded PSC that is using retroarch to load the games or the CFW PS3 running retroarch or other DEDICATED emulator would have the highest compatibility. POPStarter wasn't designed to play every game in the library and it doesn't. "PS1 Classics" native emulator on PS3 isn't either. Retroarch and other emulators have been updated and refined to play 99% if not the entire library over the years.

In the case of the PSC specifically, if you use AutoBleem I know you load games in the PSC User Interface and have them play with the stock emulator OR Retroarch on a game by game basis. Older project eris versions you couldn't do that, you had to go to Retroarch or Emulationstation to play games with Retroarch - not sure if newer versions have changed that or not.

At the end of the day tho, it's highly likely the games you WANT to play will work on all of those devices and emulation methods unless you are into really rare or obscure games.

Post automatically merged: Apr 17, 2023

I wouldn't buy that otg adapter like on the first page (the right angled one). I'd buy one that kinda looks like a squid with two long cables attached to a base. I only use an otg cable with the snes and genesis minis. the nes mini has big enough internal storage to hold the entire US library. anyway, I've had the right angled otg adapter before, and randomly it would not be detected. I had this problem with a different otg adapter as well, but the adapter I described works every time. personally, I'd just use a usb flash drive in the second port. never had a problem with that. I think the folder on the root needs to be named Sony iirc.

Agreed about the right angle adapter. I've had a few and they usually wear out faster since it's a solid piece and weight/stress on ANY micro-B connector tends to damage them. I was SO happy when many-hundred dollar phones stopped using micro-B ports for this reason.

 

[Windows_10_User]

I wouldn't buy that otg adapter like on the first page (the right angled one). I'd buy one that kinda looks like a squid with two long cables attached to a base. I only use an otg cable with the snes and genesis minis. the nes mini has big enough internal storage to hold the entire US library. anyway, I've had the right angled otg adapter before, and randomly it would not be detected. I had this problem with a different otg adapter as well, but the adapter I described works every time. personally, I'd just use a usb flash drive in the second port. never had a problem with that. I think the folder on the root needs to be named Sony iirc.

I ordered the one @esmith13 recommended. Also, I think external HDDs last longer and might be faster than USB flash drives, so they should be used (mainly for the first reason) unlike the other, even if a different power supply to support more amps and an OTG cable have to be bought.

QC3.0 chargers are at the very least 5v & 9v and usually they are 5v, 9v & 12v.
Most if not all manufacturers of 5v only devices (like your PSC & HDD) recommend you don't use anything that can supply over 5v because if the charger isn't smart enough to know better it may send more than 5v to your devices. TECHNICALLY it should stay at 5v unless your device tells the charger it can handle more but it seems no one trusts (or at least no one will guarantee) that it will.

If you mean PS1 compatibility as to say "more games load/play correctly on one device or the other", then a modded PSC that is using retroarch to load the games or the CFW PS3 running retroarch or other DEDICATED emulator would have the highest compatibility. POPStarter wasn't designed to play every game in the library and it doesn't. "PS1 Classics" native emulator on PS3 isn't either. Retroarch and other emulators have been updated and refined to play 99% if not the entire library over the years.

In the case of the PSC specifically, if you use AutoBleem I know you load games in the PSC User Interface and have them play with the stock emulator OR Retroarch on a game by game basis. Older project eris versions you couldn't do that, you had to go to Retroarch or Emulationstation to play games with Retroarch - not sure if newer versions have changed that or not.

At the end of the day tho, it's highly likely the games you WANT to play will work on all of those devices and emulation methods unless you are into really rare or obscure games.

Post automatically merged: Apr 17, 2023

Agreed about the right angle adapter. I've had a few and they usually wear out faster since it's a solid piece and weight/stress on ANY micro-B connector tends to damage them. I was SO happy when many-hundred dollar phones stopped using micro-B ports for this reason.

It's 5V 3A and I guess it's smart enough so I shouldn't have a problem.

But I was talking about PS1 BIN/CUE games on the PS3 (and on the PS2 and PSC), not PSOne Classics. Which is more compatible with these games, PSC or PS3? I don't run PS1 games on the PS2 using POPStarter but I run them on the PS3 since it seems it's more compatible than the former. I also assume PSC's Retroboot is more compatible than PSC's stock emulation. It appears the latest AutoBleem versions are only available on Discord, when I don't have a Discord account, nor do I want to.

Also, PSC's controllers cables are for some reason too short so I'll use DualShock 3 wirelessly via Brook Super Converter even if it's annoying setting it.

 

[esmith13]

If you use PS1 games on a PS3 without launching an emulator first then you are using Sony's "PS1 Classics" emulator which wasn't designed to run the whole PS1 library.
If you're looking for the "best" PS1 experience that isn't original hardware I would say you take an old PC or buy a ~$100 newer mini PC/Single Board Computer/or other dedicated emulation device and run Batocera or similar (JELOS, EmuELEC, ArkOS) on it with Duckstation so you can upscale the graphics

If it's a QC3.0 charger then is is not JUST 5v. Again, I'll cross my fingers for you.

PSC Retroarch is more compatible that PSC Stock emulation.
If I recall retroboot was a way to add-on Retroarch to older PSC Custom Firmware before newer versions just built it in from the get-go.
Newest AutoBleem isn't only available thru Discord. This is The AutoBleem Team's Google Drive: Linky

Not sure if a Brook Super Converter will work on the PSC's power-limited USB ports. You may have to do the power-mod soldering to get them to work.

 

[Windows_10_User]

If you use PS1 games on a PS3 without launching an emulator first then you are using Sony's "PS1 Classics" emulator which wasn't designed to run the whole PS1 library.
If you're looking for the "best" PS1 experience that isn't original hardware I would say you take an old PC or buy a ~$100 newer mini PC/Single Board Computer/or other dedicated emulation device and run Batocera or similar (JELOS, EmuELEC, ArkOS) on it with Duckstation so you can upscale the graphics

If it's a QC3.0 charger then is is not JUST 5v. Again, I'll cross my fingers for you.

PSC Retroarch is more compatible that PSC Stock emulation.
If I recall retroboot was a way to add-on Retroarch to older PSC Custom Firmware before newer versions just built it in from the get-go.
Newest AutoBleem isn't only available thru Discord. This is The AutoBleem Team's Google Drive: Linky

Not sure if a Brook Super Converter will work on the PSC's power-limited USB ports. You may have to do the power-mod soldering to get them to work.

So, I guess PSC's stock emulation and/or Retroboot is more compatible than the PS3 when running those BIN/CUE files even if the latter's compatibility is high.

OK, but like I said, it should be smart enough to use 5V and not another amperage. The non-QC's on Amazon can't be shipped to my country.

Where did you get that link?

It worked, I already tried it.

Do you recommend AutoBleem or Project Eris (I think BleemSync is the spiritual antecessor of the latter)?

Are - 5/+ 5V power supplies dangerous if used in 5V devices?

What would happen if using a 5V 2V power supply instead of a 5V 3A one you recommend? The PSC/external HDD wouldn't turn on or the PSC and games would slow down? May the latter two happen even with a 5V 3A power supply? Regardless of the used power supply, may games slow down (especially if there's a lot of them), mainly in FMVs?

If using power supplies which have the same voltage but lower amperage than the devices they're connected to, will the power supplies work or may they overheat and stop working for good? My used PS Vita Slim came with a power supply which is 5V and 1.2A and my PSP 3000's power supply is 5V and 1.5A. I think the PS Vita's power supply is 5V and 1.5A and the PSP's power supply is 5V and 2A so may they overheat and stop working for good and regardless of that will the consoles charge slower?

 

[esmith13]

So, I guess PSC's stock emulation and/or RetroArch is more compatible than the PS3 CFW when runninf those CUE/BIN files even if its compatibility is good, AFAIK.

If using Autobleem you should use .chd format to save space, honestly. You can also use .pbp format.
If using Project Eris I don't remember what formats are supported but if you can use chd/pbp you should.

Ok, then I don't understand why it states it's 5V. The non-QC ones on Amazon weren't shipped to my country.

All QC chargers ARE 5v but also 9v and possibly 12v. That's what makes them QuickChargers - they use higher voltages to push the power into the battery faster.

Where did you get that link?

I've had it bookmarked since I did my Autobleem update to v1.0 for Lightgun support. I'm pretty sure I got it on their Discord which I am a member of.

It worked, I already tried it.

Okey-dokey.

Do you recommend AutoBleem or Project Eris (I think BleemSync is the spiritual antecessor of the latter)?

I at one point or another used all 3 of them. I use AutoBleem exclusively now for 4 reasons (all are personal preference)
1) lightgun & wifi support
2) you can pick stock or retroarch emulation per individual PS1 game while all are in the same interface together
3) you still use a stock or stock-like interface
4) in that same interface you can access not only PS1 games but other emulated consoles as well - also seamlessly.

Are -5/+5V adapters dangerous in 5V devices?

I don't know what you mean by -5/+5v adapters? The only power supplies I know of that go from negative voltages to positive are AC Power Adapters not DC Power Adapters. Everything we are discussing here uses DC voltages.

What would happen if using a 5V 2V adapter instead of a 5V 3A you recommend? The PSC/external HDD wouldn't turn on, the PSC would be slow, the games would stutter? May the latter two happen even with a 5V 3A adapter? Regardless of the used adapter, may the PSC (especially if one has hundreds of games)/games lag, the latter especially in FMVs?

It depends on how many amps your HDD needs. Having extra amps is perfectly safe - the power supply will just work less hard. Have your amps too low can cause the HDD not to spin or have head knock (bad), or the PSC to crash, or all of the above. Theoretically it could eventually damage one or the other in the worst case scenario, tho the HDD would be the most likely to be hurt since you could lose or corrupt data on the disc. The number of games you have or FMVs is not important. It's either going to work correctly or not work and crash.

If using adapters which have the same voltage but lower amperage than the devices they're connected to, will the adapters work or they may overheat and stop working for good? My used PS Vita Slim came with a charger which is 5V and 1.2A and my PSP 3000's charger is 5V and 1.5A. I think the PS Vita is 5V and 1.5A and the PSP is 5V and 2A so can I have any problem like the chargers overheating and stop working for good and regardless of that will the consoles charge slower?

See above answer. If the amps are too low you could be in for a bad time. That said, sometimes manufactures rate devices as needing more amps then they may technically need to cover worst case scenarios (and their own ass for warranty purposes).

 

[Windows_10_User]

If using Autobleem you should use .chd format to save space, honestly. You can also use .pbp format.
If using Project Eris I don't remember what formats are supported but if you can use chd/pbp you should.

All QC chargers ARE 5v but also 9v and possibly 12v. That's what makes them QuickChargers - they use higher voltages to push the power into the battery faster.

I've had it bookmarked since I did my Autobleem update to v1.0 for Lightgun support. I'm pretty sure I got it on their Discord which I am a member of.

Okey-dokey.

I at one point or another used all 3 of them. I use AutoBleem exclusively now for 4 reasons (all are personal preference)
1) lightgun & wifi support
2) you can pick stock or retroarch emulation per individual PS1 game while all are in the same interface together
3) you still use a stock or stock-like interface
4) in that same interface you can access not only PS1 games but other emulated consoles as well - also seamlessly.


I don't know what you mean by -5/+5v adapters? The only power supplies I know of that go from negative voltages to positive are AC Power Adapters not DC Power Adapters. Everything we are discussing here uses DC voltages.

It depends on how many amps your HDD needs. Having extra amps is perfectly safe - the power supply will just work less hard. Have your amps too low can cause the HDD not to spin or have head knock (bad), or the PSC to crash, or all of the above. Theoretically it could eventually damage one or the other in the worst case scenario, tho the HDD would be the most likely to be hurt since you could lose or corrupt data on the disc. The number of games you have or FMVs is not important. It's either going to work correctly or not work and crash.

See above answer. If the amps are too low you could be in for a bad time. That said, sometimes manufactures rate devices as needing more amps then they may technically need to cover worst case scenarios (and their own ass for warranty purposes).

I'vd never heard of the CHD format and I thought PBP was a PSP one. And by saving space will games become laggy? Which formats does the PSC support? Do multiple BIN, CUE and APE files have to be joined and will BIN files work without CUE's? What about WAV's and ECM's?

Again, but like I said, the power supply should be smart enough to know it's connected to a 5V device, not a 9V or a 12V one, and the PSC doesn't even have a battery unlike the PSP and the PS Vita so what may happen to it? Anyway, like I said, non-QC's on Amazon can't be shipped to my country.

So, a Discord account is needed, after all.

Since I don't want internet access, light gun support and running other consoles' emulators, should I stick to Project Eris?

I don't even know the difference between AC and DC power supplies and I meant power supplies which were - and + 5V.

I read if there are too many stock games, the PSC's UI becomes laggy and I was told a 5V 2A power supply was enough.

What do you mean by "bad time"? That's exactly what happens with my PSP and PS Vita which came with power supplies with less amperage than they do. Can the PSP and PS Vita and or/their power supplies be damaged by possible overheating of both or just one of them, their power supplies make more noise than usual and they take longer to charge?

 

[esmith13]

I never heard of the CHD format and I thought PBP was the PSP one. And by saving save will games become laggy? Which formats does the PSC support? Does one have to join multiple BIN, APE and CUE files and will BIN files work without CUE ones? What about WAV and ECM ones?

.CHD and .PBP will work best. Bin/cue will work but could have audio issues in games with CD audio. Bins can work without cue for games without CD audio. Games with CD audio need the cue or no music will play.

Ok, but I think the adapter is smart enough to know it's connected to a 5V device, not a 9V or a 12V one.

Ok.

Then one must have a discord account, after all.

No. Click the link. It's a GDrive download.

Since I don't want internet access, lightgun support and running other consoles' emulators, should I stick to Project Eris?

If you like it better then use it. But autobleem was updated a lot more recently so RetroArch and other items are much newer versions in Autobleem. Who knows if project eris will ever even get another update...

I don't even know the difference between AC adapters and DC ones and I meant AC ones which were less than 5V and more than 5V.

You specifically need 5v. More or less is very bad.

I read if one has too many stock games, the PSC's UI becomes laggy and I was told a 5V 2A adapter was enough.

In project eris that's true because icons for every game are on the screen at once. Autobleem game icons scroll on and off the screen so there are never more than it can handle at once. Initial boot can still take seconds longer since it has to check the game list on first boot but one running the performance difference between a few games and many should be barely noticeable on autobleem.
2a is more than enough for the psc. 2a for the psc AND your hdd depends on what your hdd needs.

But what do you mean by "bad time"? That's preciselly what happens with my PSP and PS Vita which came with chargers with less amperage than they do. Can the PSP and PS Vita and or/they chargers be damaged by possible overheating of both or just one of them, their chargers make more noise than usual and they take longer to charge?

PSP and vita are battery powered. If you plug in an underpowered charger the work because the battery makes up the difference. That how you yould play while charging but the battery still drains, not charges... Because the battery is picking up the slack.
The psc and hdd have no battery. If you under power them they can crash or in worst case have data corruption.
If the charger can't do enough for the devices it shouldn't overheat or burn out if it's a quality charger... It's the device itself that could get damaged.


Why don't you just pick a setup and try it. If you don't like it, erase it and start over. If you keep just asking "what ifs" and don't DO something it won't matter anyway since you won't have anything you're asking questions about for it to matter.

 

[Windows_10_User]

.CHD and .PBP will work best. Bin/cue will work but could have audio issues in games with CD audio. Bins can work without cue for games without CD audio. Games with CD audio need the cue or no music will play.

Ok.

No. Click the link. It's a GDrive download.

If you like it better then use it. But autobleem was updated a lot more recently so RetroArch and other items are much newer versions in Autobleem. Who knows if project eris will ever even get another update...

You specifically need 5v. More or less is very bad.

In project eris that's true because icons for every game are on the screen at once. Autobleem game icons scroll on and off the screen so there are never more than it can handle at once. Initial boot can still take seconds longer since it has to check the game list on first boot but one running the performance difference between a few games and many should be barely noticeable on autobleem.
2a is more than enough for the psc. 2a for the psc AND your hdd depends on what your hdd needs.

PSP and vita are battery powered. If you plug in an underpowered charger the work because the battery makes up the difference. That how you yould play while charging but the battery still drains, not charges... Because the battery is picking up the slack.
The psc and hdd have no battery. If you under power them they can crash or in worst case have data corruption.
If the charger can't do enough for the devices it shouldn't overheat or burn out if it's a quality charger... It's the device itself that could get damaged.


Why don't you just pick a setup and try it. If you don't like it, erase it and start over. If you keep just asking "what ifs" and don't DO something it won't matter anyway since you won't have anything you're asking questions about for it to matter.

I think I'll use CUE files for every PS1 game, regardless if it's CDDA or not.

But I only find BIN/CUE files, so do I have to convert them to CHD and PBP (if it's even possible)? How can I know which games are CDDA? Does that mean I've been doing wrong by playing BIN/CUE PS1 games on the PS3 and not CHD's and PBP's or does that only go for the PSC? What about BIN/CUE PS2 games, do I have to convert them to CHD and PBP too to play them on the PS2 using OPL? Also, I converted BIN/CUE games to VCD, so does that mean I should have converted them to CHD and PBP before doing it or if I did that they wouldn't even be recognized by POPStarter on the PS2? I read that PS1 games slow down more in Project Eris, so AutoBleem or Retroboot should be used to run games. Will those BIN/CUE CDDA games slow down even if using AutoBleem and Retroboot? I read games slowed down in some USB 3.0 devices but not in USB 2.0's. What about the slowness some users complain about?

I know but you got that link from Discord, that's my point.

But why isn't PSC's Retroboot available on RetroArch's official website?

OK, so won't I have problems if I keep using 5V power supplies on my PSP and PS Vita even if they have a lower amperage than these consoles (like they do)? Also, I guess the device's voltage and amperage is always the same as its official power supply's.

What's the average 2.5 external HDD amperage? What about the OTG cable, doesn't it need power too?

Will my PSP and PS Vita take longer to charge?

Because I don't want to lose money for nothing.

 

[esmith13]

Dude... DUDE...
Either try it and find out or get someone local to help you. Talking in circles with you online isn't helping anyone - especially when you're not even trying anything anyone is suggesting. I've answered most of these questions over and over in this thread and you keep re-asking them. It's not like you even tried to do it yet. It's like you just want the debate, not the info to act on.

Also, you can't keep jumping back and fourth between PSC/PS2/PS3/etc for running PS1 games in the same discussion. Just because I said you should try to use chd or pbp on your PSC doesn't mean you're doing anything wrong running them as bin/cue on a PS2 or PS3 or whatever else. I have experience doing all these things and you're starting to confuse ME. I can't imagine how you could possibly process all the answers when you jump from subject to subject like this on multiple very similar but very different subjects...

But I only find CUE and BIN files so do I have to convert them to CHD and PBP (if it's even possible)?

yes, you can convert yourself from bin/cue to either chd or pbp - or find them already that way and re-download them... Up to you.

I thought BIN files always needed CUE ones and vice-versa. How can I know which games have CD audio?

I dunno, google the games? Or take the easy way out and always use the cue files. can't hurt and it's less effort. You asked if you absolutely needed them - the answer is yes if they have CD audio and no if they don't.

Does that mean I've been doing the wrong thing by playing CUE and BIN PS1 games on the PS3 and not CHD and PBP ones or does that only goes for the PSC?

No. Never said that. This is why you need to stop bouncing between similar but not-so-similar subjects in the same thread. CHD is specifically for emulation in the traditional sense. PBP was invented by Sony themselves and can be used in emulation and SOME real Sony hardware. Each emulator or system has its own requirements. With the scatter-brained subjects you keep jumping across there is no one answer to "rule them all".

What about CUE and BIN PS2 games, do I have to convert them to CHD and PBP too?

NO. Just no...

Also, on POPStarter I converted CUE and BIN games to VCD so does that mean I should have converted them to CHD and PBD before doing it or if I did that it wouldn't even recognize them?

NO! OMG. VCD is correct for that scenario. There is no one answer for every platform...

I read that Project Eris users have lag so they should use an OTG cable and use RetroArch to run games so will one have lag problems with those CD audio games even if using AutoBleem, an OTG cable and RetroArch? I read some users had lag because they were using USB 3.0 devices amd woth 2.0 ones they didn't.

LIKE I SAID ALREADY. Project Eris puts ALL your games in one on-screen carousel so the more you have the more slowdown there is. Autobleem doesn't have that issue because it doesn't display every game all at once.

Project Eris (Left) Autobleem (Right)

What about input lag issues some users are complaining about?

What about it? A PSC is a piece of crap $20 single board computer... If you don't want input lag, use a real playstation or a much more powerful emulation device and a wired controller on whichever device you play on. Oh and you flatscreen TV adds a bunch of lag too, unless it one of a handful of decent models and you configure it's setting correctly...

I know but you got that link from discord, that's my point.

SO WHAT?!?!? You don't have to ever go anywhere near Discord. I gave you a google drive link to where the latest version will always be... YOU'RE WELCOME...

But why isn't PSC's RetroArch available on the latter's official site?

Who is the latter? Retroarch themselves? Because the project Eris and Autobleem teams built their own from source. If you mean the Project eris or autobleem websites - why would it be a seperate download if it's built in? Why do you even care?

Ok, so I won't have problems if I keep using 5V chargers on my PSP and PS Vita even if they have a lower amperage than these consoles (like they do)? Also, I assume the device's voltage and amperage is always the same as its official charger/adapter.

What does one have to do with the other? Who says the low 1a or 1.5a of the psp or vita charger isn't the CORRECT amperage for that device? Why are we talking about psp and vita chargers right now?!?

And what's the average 2.5 external HDD amperage?

I don't know and it doesn't matter. All that matters is what YOURS needs when YOU buy a power supply.

What about the OTG cable, doesn't it need power too?

What? No... The point of the OTG cable is to allow you to plug in both power (your power cord) and a peripheral device (your hdd) at the same time... You are already supplying the power.

I waa told it would be the chargers to stop working if something went wrong, not the devices.

If you got answers you like already - why are you asking?

So, my PSP and PS Vita won't take longer to charge and won't overheat with lesser amperage?

Because I don't want to lose money for nothing.

And I don't want to lose my sanity, We don't all get what we want in life.

 

[Windows_10_User]

Dude... DUDE...
Either try it and find out or get someone local to help you. Talking in circles with you online isn't helping anyone - especially when you're not even trying anything anyone is suggesting. I've answered most of these questions over and over in this thread and you keep re-asking them. It's not like you even tried to do it yet. It's like you just want the debate, not the info to act on.

Also, you can't keep jumping back and fourth between PSC/PS2/PS3/etc for running PS1 games in the same discussion. Just because I said you should try to use chd or pbp on your PSC doesn't mean you're doing anything wrong running them as bin/cue on a PS2 or PS3 or whatever else. I have experience doing all these things and you're starting to confuse ME. I can't imagine how you could possibly process all the answers when you jump from subject to subject like this on multiple very similar but very different subjects...


yes, you can convert yourself from bin/cue to either chd or pbp - or find them already that way and re-download them... Up to you.

I dunno, google the games? Or take the easy way out and always use the cue files. can't hurt and it's less effort. You asked if you absolutely needed them - the answer is yes if they have CD audio and no if they don't.

No. Never said that. This is why you need to stop bouncing between similar but not-so-similar subjects in the same thread. CHD is specifically for emulation in the traditional sense. PBP was invented by Sony themselves and can be used in emulation and SOME real Sony hardware. Each emulator or system has its own requirements. With the scatter-brained subjects you keep jumping across there is no one answer to "rule them all".

NO. Just no...

NO! OMG. VCD is correct for that scenario. There is no one answer for every platform...

LIKE I SAID ALREADY. Project Eris puts ALL your games in one on-screen carousel so the more you have the more slowdown there is. Autobleem doesn't have that issue because it doesn't display every game all at once.

Project Eris (Left) Autobleem (Right)

What about it? A PSC is a piece of crap $20 single board computer... If you don't want input lag, use a real playstation or a much more powerful emulation device and a wired controller on whichever device you play on. Oh and you flatscreen TV adds a bunch of lag too, unless it one of a handful of decent models and you configure it's setting correctly...

SO WHAT?!?!? You don't have to ever go anywhere near Discord. I gave you a google drive link to where the latest version will always be... YOU'RE WELCOME...

Who is the latter? Retroarch themselves? Because the project Eris and Autobleem teams built their own from source. If you mean the Project eris or autobleem websites - why would it be a seperate download if it's built in? Why do you even care?

What does one have to do with the other? Who says the low 1a or 1.5a of the psp or vita charger isn't the CORRECT amperage for that device? Why are we talking about psp and vita chargers right now?!?

I don't know and it doesn't matter. All that matters is what YOURS needs when YOU buy a power supply.

What? No... The point of the OTG cable is to allow you to plug in both power (your power cord) and a peripheral device (your hdd) at the same time... You are already supplying the power.

If you got answers you like already - why are you asking?



And I don't want to lose my sanity, We don't all get what we want in life.

So why do you answer me or type that whole text? I do want it, but you don't give me and now you even say to try it myself when I don't want to lose money for nothing. Even before I tried, you said you hoped I fried nothing with the power supply I ordered, so don't you think it's better that I question you? And what if I ordered an OTG cable that blocked the HDMI port, for instance? Also, you didn't answer many important questions and how could you have answered my questions more than once since in the latest reply I made new's (regarding BIN/CUE files on the PS2 and PS3 and PSP's and PS Vita's voltage and amperage)?

I didn't jump, I questioned you about it.

I never found them in those formats, only in BIN's/CUE's, so I asked if it was possible to convert them. How can they be converted?

Don't you think I already googled them and found nothing?

Again, I didn't stay you said that, I questioned you about it. I didn't say there was a solution for every platform. Also, the subjects do have to do with each other (BIN/CUE files and PSP's and PS Vita's voltage and amperage) and if I created a single thread for all of them I'd have to create a lot of threads and I'd be criticized for doing it like I already did (in one case I created two threads about different subjects and one of them was closed and I was told in the closed thread to talk about the two subjects in the remaining thread), so I'd be criticized the other way around too.

But you said AutoBleem's boot takes longer to start, so that's slowness for me. According to the images you showed, both display all games unlike what you say. What about the other questions I made? You haven't answered them or contradicted yourself. I no longer have a flatscreen TV, by the way.

What about it? I only questioned you about it, that's all. It seems it does have it.

OK, but what about when a new version is out? It doesn't make sense to be out only in Discord.

RetroArch's website. Because it has to do with the introduced subject about voltage and amperage and the power supplies that came with my consoles have the right voltage but the wrong amperage (I already searched on the internet and confirmed with my friends, so it's definitely the wrong amperage), so I'm asking if I can have any issues.

It doesn't matter? Then should I take the risk and waste money for nothing since it mightn't provide enough energy to power it when you said it did matter? Like I said, I already ordered a power supply and you said you would cross fingers for me because it could fry the devices, so it does matter.

OK, I thought the OTG cable itself needed power.

Because you contradicted yourself and some users contradict others. What about the questions I made and you didn't answer and keep doing it?

What's that emoji for? Will it happen or not? Again, you don't answer me and it's an important question and then it's my fault.

That isn't my fault since I didn't assume the things you accused me (BIN/CUE files) and didn't contradict myself unlike you.

 

[esmith13]

Even before I tried you stated you hoped I didn't fry anything with the adapter I ordered so don't you think it's better that I make these questions?

I did say that, and you ignored it anyway so what's your point?

And what if I ordered an OTG cable that blocked the HDMI port?

That only required you to look at pictures to figure out yourself or just not getting one that could even possibly block it. You have many options available.

I didn't jump, I questioned you about it.

you're jumping from topic to topic and making it very confusing since the nuances of each topic are just different enough...

I never found them in those formats, only in CUE and BIN ones, so that's why I asked if it was possible to convert them. How can I convert them?

convert ps1 bin cue to chd: Here
convert ps1 bin cue to pbp: Here

Don't you think I already googled them and found nothing?

Not really. This was the first search result on google for me: https://en.everybodywiki.com/List_of_PlayStation_games_with_CD_audio_tracks

Again, I didn't state you said that, I questioned you about it. I didn't state there was a solution for every platform.

again, muddling different subjects makes it confusing and requires in these cases completely different answers (and should have their own forum threads)

But you stated AutoBleem's initial boot takes longer to start so that's a slowdown for me. According to the images you showed, both display all games unlike what you state.

Autobleem only shows 11 boxarts at a time no matter how many games you have. Look at the picture. it doesn't even show the entire cover for the game at each end, giving you a visual cue that there are more off screen...

What about it? I only questioned you about it, that's all. It looks like it does have it.

Everything has SOME input lag. Some things more than others.

Ok, but what about when a new version is released? It doesn't make sense to be released only in discord.

IT IS RELEASED ON GOOGLE DRIVE... They talk about it on their discord. Any Youtube. And other sites.
Don't use it if it bothers you.

RetroArch's site.

OK. then the answer I gave before is the correct one. Official Retroarch team didn't build it. The PSC modding teams did.

Because it has to do with the introduced subject about voltage and amperage and the chargers that came with my consoles have the right voltage but the wrong amperage (I already searched on the internet and confirmed with my friends so it's definitely the wrong amperage), hence why I'm asking if I can have any issues.

OK

It doesn't matter? Then should I risk it and may waste money for nothing since it may not provide enough energy to power it when you stated it did matter? Like I stated, I already ordered an adapter and you stated you would cross fingers for me because it could fry the devices so it does matter.

It doesn't matter what "the average drive" needs. It matters what the drive you own or plan to buy needs...

Ok, I thought the OTG cable itself needed power.

No

Because you contradicted yourself and some users contradict other ones.

I didn't contradict myself. I told you the safe answer is not to trust QC chargers to give only 5v. I also told you over 5v is dangerous and not providing enough amps *could* damage something that relies just on that power (no battery).

What is that emoji for? Will it happen or not?

overheating or not depends on if the charger is crappy or not. I didn't buy it. I don't know it's quality or specifications.
The emoji is because if it is lower amps it will be a slower charge. how could it be as fast if it's not as much power?

That isn't my fault since I didn't assume the things you accused me and didn't contradict myself unlike you.

OK. I'll leave any forthcoming questions for someone else to answer. Good luck with your project.

 

[Windows_10_User]

I did say that, and you ignored it anyway so what's your point?

That only required you to look at pictures to figure out yourself or just not getting one that could even possibly block it. You have many options available.

you're jumping from topic to topic and making it very confusing since the nuances of each topic are just different enough...

convert ps1 bin cue to chd: Here
convert ps1 bin cue to pbp: Here

Not really. This was the first search result on google for me: https://en.everybodywiki.com/List_of_PlayStation_games_with_CD_audio_tracks

again, muddling different subjects makes it confusing and requires in these cases completely different answers (and should have their own forum threads)

Autobleem only shows 11 boxarts at a time no matter how many games you have. Look at the picture. it doesn't even show the entire cover for the game at each end, giving you a visual cue that there are more off screen...

Everything has SOME input lag. Some things more than others.

IT IS RELEASED ON GOOGLE DRIVE... They talk about it on their discord. Any Youtube. And other sites.
Don't use it if it bothers you.

OK. then the answer I gave before is the correct one. Official Retroarch team didn't build it. The PSC modding teams did.

OK

It doesn't matter what "the average drive" needs. It matters what the drive you own or plan to buy needs...

No

I didn't contradict myself. I told you the safe answer is not to trust QC chargers to give only 5v. I also told you over 5v is dangerous and not providing enough amps *could* damage something that relies just on that power (no battery).

overheating or not depends on if the charger is crappy or not. I didn't buy it. I don't know it's quality or specifications.
The emoji is because if it is lower amps it will be a slower charge. how could it be as fast if it's not as much power?

OK. I'll leave any forthcoming questions for someone else to answer. Good luck with your project.

So, you keep answering me after what you said?

You're lying. I didn't ignore it since I told you non-QC power supplies couldn't be shipped to my country. Speaking of ignoring, I made other questions and you ignored them unlike me regarding this QC power supply subject, so what's your point in lying concerning this subject?

I assumed if an OTG cable is PSC-compatible like it's said on the website it would block nothing but if it wasn't for some users saying that it actually did, I might've bought one of those. It doesn't make sense to sell products and say they're compatible with certain devices when they block fundamental ports of those devices. Is it my fault for assuming PSC-compatible devices would work with no problem without even seeing a picture of them? I don't get it why it's obvious for you to waste time seeing pictures of them when they say they're PSC-compatible.

They have to do with this one, and like I said, when I created separate threads for different subjects, I was criticized for creating too many and one of them was even closed and I was told on it to regard the subject in another thread I already created which already regarded a single different subject. So, now you admit I didn't say what you accused me since I only asked you about it?

But I did search and I didn't found that website and this time you actually showed me it and didn't do what you did before regarding the CUE to CHD and the CUE to PBP conversions. Why is that?

Again, after creating separate issues for other subjects in the past, one of them was closed and I was told in that thread to regard the subject in a different thread I already created when in that thread I already regarded a single different subject, not to mention I was critized for creating too many threads.

I didn't know everything had latency. Was that so obvious for you? Excuse me for not knowing it. If I didn't mention it I'd never know it so do you finally get the importance of questioning? Do even handhelds have latency?

But you got it from Discord, that's the point. From what YouTube videos and other websites?

What about PS3's RetroArch? Why is it yet to be out for years?

OK, what? Do you agree with me and the questions I made are important, after all?

One more time, excuse me for not being obvious to me that the OTG cable didn't require power.

So, charging the PSP and the PS Vita with the right voltage but the wrong amperage won't mess up the power supplies and the consoles but they'll charge slower (if the power supplies' amperage is lower than the consoles') or faster (if the power supplies' amperage is higher than the consoles')? What about using power cords in devices without batteries with a different voltage than the devices' or with the right one but with the wrong amperage? Would the power cords mess up the devices' power supplies? May power supplies also mess themselves if used in devices with a different voltage or with the right one but with the wrong amperage? The "specification" is lower amperage than they need, I've already told you.

Once again, what do you mean by quality? How can I know? I don't know, so I asked, don't you think?

What might be obvious for you might not be for me and excuse me yet again for not knowing it. If I didn't mention it, I'd never know, so do you finally get the importance of making questions?

Once more, how can the amperage the PSP and the PS Vita really need be known to buy the right power supply if sometimes manufacturers rate devices as needing more amps then they may technically need to cover worst case scenarios since I can't find 5V 2A and 5V 1.5A power supplies?

Ok, what? It was you who said in the beginning of the previous reply that talking to me online wasn't helping anyone and you didn't want to lose your sanity, not me. Will you finally keep your word?

And do you think I want to lose my sanity? And if you're losing yours for answering me, why do you keep doing it?

You're not forced to reply me. Over and over again, in the beginning, you said talking to me isn't helping anyone, so why do you keep replying me, anyway? I doubt getting the PSC to work with an external HDD, an OTG cable and a power supply is all someone wants in life.

If sometimes manufacturers rate devices as needing more amps then they may technically need to cover worst case scenarios, how can I know the amperage of the PSP's and the PS Vita's power supplies to buy the right ones since I can't find 5V 2A and 5V 1.5A's?

You didn't answer what would happen if using a power supply with the same voltage but less amperage than the device it's connected to.

DualShock 3 works with Brook Super Converter connected to the PSC's front ports without doing the power-mod soldering (you told me you weren't sure it would).

All the PBP games I tried on the PSC had a black screen or froze at the logo and all the Retroboot PS1 cores I tried couldn't run them as well.

Is there a way to remove the stock games on the PSC?

How can I save AutoBleem and Retroboot (and its cores) settings when updating the former?

Also, how to update Retroboot cores?

EDIT: I found non-QC 5V 3A power supplies on Amazon that could be shipped to my country and just to be sure, I ordered one of them. I also found a 5V 2A PSP power supply and a 5V 1.5A PS Vita Slim one that could be shipped to my country and I ordered them. The new 5V 2A PSP power supply already arrived, I already used it and it took the same time as the previous 5V 1.5A one to charge the PSP, I think, so I might've lost money for nothing. I don't think the PSP power supply is official. I'll order another one and this time I hope it will be an official one.

EDIT 2: I ordered an used 5V 2000mA official PSP power supply (PSP-100, but it's actually PSP-104) and it's taking the same time to charge the PSP as before, so I might've lost money for nothing again.

EDIT 3: The non-QC 5V 3A power supply, the OTG cable and the USB 3.0 2.5" 1 TB HDD to use with the PSC arrived. I copied AutoBleem to the external HDD, connected the OTG cable to the PSC's Micro USB port and connected the external HDD and the power supply to it and it's working.

EDIT 4: So, the official 5V 1.5V PS Vita Slim power supply (PCH-ZAC1) arrived and it's taking approximately the same time (I think) to charge the PS Vita as the previous non-official power supply, which means I might've lost money for nothing once again.

EDIT 5: The PSC's "POWER" indicator doesn't blink (so, the PSC doesn't recognize AutoBleem) with my 2.5" 1 TB USB 3.0 external HDD connected to the OTG and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port but it does (so, it recognizes AutoBleem) with my USB flash drive connected to the PSC's controller port "2". Now what? Maybe I wouldn't have this problem if using the QC 5V 3A power supply so I might have lost money for nothing yet again. Didn't you say there was nothing to be afraid of as long as the power supply was 5V only, not QC? Or maybe it's not a decent power supply?

EDIT 6: I get the PSC to blink (so, it recognizes AutoBleem) with the external HDD connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port by taking the OTG cable from the PSC's Micro USB port and putting it back. Since I sometimes have this problem, I have to do this process when it happens but I'm afraid of messing up the external HDD since for some reason it automatically turns on as soon as it's connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port even with the PSC turned off but what choice do I have? Since the external HDD automatically turns on if connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port, I only connect it to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port when I want to run AutoBleem. Also, the external HDD doesn't turn off even after turning off the PSC and the PSC's adapter makes noise when turning off the console with the external HDD connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port, so one more reason to connect the external HDD to the OTG cable when wanting to run AutoBleem. Maybe the power supply doesn't provide enough energy to power the PSC and its external HDD so that makes the PSC to not recognize the external HDD, but if so, why does it sometimes work? You said there was nothing to worry about as long as the power supply was 5V only, not QC (like my previous power supply, which I didn't even try). Maybe it's not a decent power supply?

EDIT 7: I downloaded PBP games converted by PSX2PSP from BIN/CUE, tried them and they didn't have problems. I was told it's normal for PSN PBP games to not work on the PSC since they're encrypted and some have audio in Sony's ATRAC3 format and AutoBleem doesn't support encrypted PBP files or ATRAC3, as well as all the PS1 Retroboot cores I tried.

EDIT 8: It seems I can manually download Retroboot's latest cores from here but I was told not all of them are needed and some of them need INFO files and they can be find here.

EDIT 9: Now, when turning off the PSC with the external HDD connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port, the PSC turns on immediately afterwards. Also, the external HDD stopped working for good because the PSC's "POWER" indicator doesn't blink when turning on the console with it connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port and even two PCs say to insert a disc when double-clicking it in File Explorer on Windows. I find it odd this external HDD stopped working when I bought it April last year.

EDIT 10: I bought another 2.5" 1 TB USB 3.0 external HDD and when connected to the OTG cable with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port, the PSC's "POWER" indicator always blinks when turning the console on (so, it recognizes AutoBleem) unlike with the previous one, so I don't have to take the OTG cable from the PSC's Micro USB port and put it back (maybe the previous external HDD was faulty from the start, which is odd).

This external HDD turns off some seconds after turning off the PSC unlike the previous one (once more, maybe the other external HDD was faulty from the start, which is odd) but since it still automatically turns on if connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port and the PSC's adapter still makes noise when turning off the console with the external HDD connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port, I only connect the external HDD to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port when I want to run AutoBleem.

Also, when turning off the PSC with the external HDD connected to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the PSC's Micro USB port, the PSC no longer turns on immediately afterwards.

I just hope this external HDD lasts longer than the previous one since the latter didn't even last a year.

EDIT 11: @esmith13 said to use this power supply because the one I'm using is garbage. The one he recommended is a Raspberry Pi 3B/3B+ power supply (the PSC needs 1A and the external HDD I'm using and listed to him [Seagate STJL1000400] is rated to draw 0.9A) and he said if using it I'd know it's not a trickle charger and it's meant to provide constant reliable power for a device without a battery. He also claimed my power supply shouldn't be whistling when connecting the PSC's external HDD to the OTG cable with the PSC turned off and though the power supply is rated at 3A (total), no single USB port will supply more than 2A, so it's 2A of maximum supply. He also declared it's a phone charger, not an actual power supply, that the difference between them is how steady and clean the flow of power is, that I'm hitting the limit of what the phone charger can supply on a single port if it's good quality, that its quality is poor and that he wouldn't use it for what I'm trying to do. When I confronted him saying I thought a phone charger was also a power supply, that he had claimed a 3A power supply was right for the PSC and that he didn't tell me that no single USB port will supply more than 2A, he replied he didn't think I'd buy a multi-port power supply, that most actual power supplies power only one device and that 90% of those kinds of multi-port power supplies are garbage, even for phones, to which I answered by saying I hadn't found any single 3A power supply, so I bought that one.

He mentioned that before I turn on the PSC, I should connect the external HDD to the OTG cable, wait a few seconds to guarantee the HDD spins up so that the PSC will see it, connect the OTG cable to the PSC's Micro USB port and press the PSC's "POWER" button.

He also said that after I turn off the PSC, the external HDD or the power supply should be disconnected from the OTG cable (so that power can't be supplied to the external HDD when not in use to solve longevity and/or sleep issues), the OTG cable should be disconnected from the PSC's Micro USB port and the order in which this is done doesn't matter.

I think having to disconnect the external HDD from the OTG cable to spare its life doesn't make sense since turning off the PSC makes the external HDD turn off seconds after (at least its indicator turns off and the external HDD stops making noise) for some reason, even while still having the external HDD connected to the OTG cable (and so to the power supply) and the OTG cable connected to the PSC's Micro USB port.

He also told the previous external HDD's power supply might've messed my previous external HDD, that it's normal for external HDDs to turn on as soon as they see power applied by design and that I should keep them disconnected for a longevity concern (once more, I don't think this makes sense because of what I previously said) and/or sleep issues when not being used.

He told if the external HDD is either spinning forever (he mentioned it will majorly shorten lifespan) or if it supports auto-sleep when inactive, it likely won't spin up fast enough to be read upon booting the PSC.

Maybe it wasn't the previous power supply's fault for messing the previous external HDD but the fact the latter was formatted as FAT32 and not NTFS or exFAT. I was told the PSC corrupts FAT32 devices on the long run and I thought the external HDD had to be formatted as it to be recognized but it turns out the kernel which is installed to make the PSC support an OTG cable also makes it able to support NTFS and exFAT devices. Just to be safe, I copied the external HDD's content to the PC, formatted the external HDD as NTFS and copied back its content from the PC.

Since the power supply he recommended comes with a switch, I can leave everything connected, turn off the PSC, wait for the external HDD to turn off after a few seconds and click on the power supply's switch when not using the PSC, and when using it, just click on the power supply's switch and turn on the PSC. According to him, the OTG cable must still be disconnected from the PSC's Micro USB port before turning on the switch so that the external HDD spins up for the PSC to see it next, then I should still wait some seconds, connect the OTG cable to the PSC's Micro USB port and turn the PSC on.

If the external HDD sleeps after a short period of time and if the game being played doesn't read from the external HDD long enough for the external HDD to enter sleep, according to @esmith13, it will try to spin up when needed later by the PSC, so it may lock up or crash if it's too slow to spin up and be ready. Very few games don't read the disc regularly but it could happen and should be a normal occurrence. I guess that doesn't happen with USB flash drives and microSD cards because I think they don't sleep but they would still need to be connected to an OTG cable and then to the PSC's Micro USB port since without hardware modification they only have a 0.1A limit and so they have issues with pretty much all storage devices because they don't meet 0.5A of USB 2.0 specification, much less USB 3.X. I was told even USB flash drives that seem to work are prone to having file system corruption later on.

 

[Windows_10_User]

So, I bought the power supply @esmith13 recommended, it doesn't make a whistling noise when the external HDD is connected to it via OTG cable (and so turned on) before turning on the PSC and the console recognizes it.

Instead of connecting the external HDD to the OTG cable, wait a few seconds, connecting the OTG cable to the PSC's Micro USB port and then turn the PSC on, I'll leave everything connected, turn off the PSC, wait for the external HDD to turn off after a few seconds and click on the power supply's switch when not using the PSC, and when using it, just click on the power supply's switch and turn on the PSC. I asked @esmith13 if I really had to disconnect the OTG cable from the PSC's Micro USB port and wait a few seconds until the external HDD started spinning if doing the latter because after leaving everything connected, clicking the PSC's power supply and turning on the console, it almost always recognizes AutoBleem (when it doesn't, it's because when not using the PSC I turned it off and didn't click the power supply's switch afterwards and in those cases I just have to click it and then turn the console on when using it. The former scenario happened some times after turning off the PSC without clicking the power supply's switch afterwards when not using it, waiting until the external HDD stopped spinning, disconnecting it from the OTG cable, connecting it to the PC to copy games to it, disconnecting it from the PC, connecting it to the PSC's OTG cable and turning on the console when using it).

EDIT: Here, @esmith13 said the Google Drive link he gave me would always have the latest version and that I should be thankful but after all AutoBleem 1.0.3 is already out and it's not there. I downloaded the latter from this Google Drive link thanks to a Reddit user who showed me it and said he got it from AutoBleem's Discord server so I really need to have a Discord account to know when a new AutoBleem version is out and to download it from Google Drive like I said.

EDIT 2: I bought the official PS Vita Portable Charger and it can charge the console via USB cable and without using the PS Vita's power supply (so, I don't have to connect the latter to a wall socket or a power strip). The problem is that the latter is needed to charge the Portable Charger (so, I have to connect the former to a wall socket or a power strip) along with the PS Vita Fat USB cable (which I didn't have because I have a PS Vita Slim so I had to buy it too). It's not worth it and so I'll keep charging the console directly with its power supply.

EDIT 3: I just noticed turning on the PSC without having connected the external HDD which has AutoBleem to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the console's Micro USB port, then connecting the external HDD which has AutoBleem to the OTG cable and with the latter connected to the console's Micro USB port and waiting some seconds makes AutoBleem being automatically ran.

EDIT 4: It seems it's hard to remove stock games on the PSC and it's not worth it. They can be hidden by checking an AutoBleem setting. Also, I was told Retroboot's “Sony - PlayStation (PCSX ReARMed)” is the most compatible core and if it has problems with some games, I should try the “Sony - PlayStation (SwanStation)” one. Retroboot's PCSX ReARMed core is newer than the one which comes with the PSC (which is also PCSX ReARMed).

EDIT 5: I got rid of Brook Super Converter's USB Y-cable by mistake and so I can't use DualShock 3 wirelessly on the PSC (only on the PS2 or wired on the PSC thanks to AutoBleem). I'm having a lot of trouble finding Brook Super Converter for sale again.

EDIT 6: After finally finding Brook Super Converter for sale again, I got another product with the same name (eBay showed a picture from the previous Brook Super Converter I got) and it only worked on the PSC when not using its external HDD so it's not worth it since I can't run AutoBleem because it's there. I ordered an USB-Y cable which fit on the previous Brook Super Converter but it still didn't work.

EDIT 7: I bought a Wingman PS2, updated it and it lets me use a DualShock 3 wirelessly on the PS2, not to mention it's cleaner than Brook Super Converter.

EDIT 8: I bought a 8BitDo USB Wireless Adapter 2, updated it and it lets me use a DualShock 4 wirelessly on the PSC with AutoBleem on the console's external HDD unlike before after connecting the 8BitDo USB Wireless Adapter 2 to a PSC front port, clicking its pair button and pressing the DualShock 4's SHARE and PS buttons until the controller makes noise.

EDIT 9: This Google Drive link is no longer available but a newer AutoBleem version may be downloaded from this one. I only got it after accessing AutoBleem's Discord server (so, a Discord account is really needed) and it seems it will be the last AutoBleem version.

EDIT 10: RetroArch's official website says RetroArch is "Coming soon" in the PS3 section (it does it for years) and that in the meantime unofficial versions of it are available elsewhere.

 

[tommyb10]

Hey I got an external cable that hooks right into the power source of my classic. My power source is very good however my classic still fails to recognize my USB even with the cable. I thought with the cable any more modern USB drive would be fine for this. Any thoughts?

Post automatically merged: Sep 13, 2023

I got the OTG cable but my classic still wont recognize my USB. My USB is a 128gb sandisk 3.0 however i thought that with the cable i could run any flash drive. Also my power source is very good. Any thoughts?

 

[Windows_10_User]

Hey I got an external cable that hooks right into the power source of my classic. My power source is very good however my classic still fails to recognize my USB even with the cable. I thought with the cable any more modern USB drive would be fine for this. Any thoughts?

Post automatically merged: Sep 13, 2023

I got the OTG cable but my classic still wont recognize my USB. My USB is a 128gb sandisk 3.0 however i thought that with the cable i could run any flash drive. Also my power source is very good. Any thoughts?

If you use an USB flash drive you don't even need to use an OTG cable (and a very good power supply) since you can connect the USB flash drive to the PSC's front ports which provide lower energy than the PSC's Micro USB port. Only if you used an external HDD like me you'd need to connect it to an OTG cable (and a power supply strong enough to provide energy to the PSC and the external HDD) and to connect the latter to the PSC's Micro USB port.