Hacking Nintendont

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You're referring to vWii Compat Installer, which installs Homebrew Channel.

AFAIK Homebrew Channel doesn't support either of the aforementioned controllers, and it is the only useful channel that can be installed without a Wii Remote. With a Wii Remote ready to use, that only leaves installing a channel for Nintendont (installed on vWii) alongside a vWii forwarder for Nintendont (the one found here supports the GamePad; it DOES work on Aroma). After that, using a Wii Remote is no longer necessary.

It would be great if someone forked vWii Compat Installer to also install Nintendont channel, that would make getting Wii Remotes completely unnecessary for those looking to play GameCube games but not Wii games.

By the way, can anyone confirm whether Homebrew Channel and WAD installers work with third-party Wii Remotes? That would be useful information for anyone who would like to spend as little money as possible.
From Wii U side you can only install the Hbc which is packed into th vCompat installer package. Which is a regular homebrew channel, after that you can only install channels, including a Gamepad compatible HBC, into the Wii mode, so Wiimote mandatory. Then you have to inject the HBC as a Wii vc inject and only run it from this app to enable the connection between the gamepad and the Wii mode. But at the end of the Wiimote is needed to install app Gamepad compatible or nintendont.
 
The Wii U GamePad has a Sensor Bar that turns on whenever the Wii Sensor Bar would turn on, if you had one. It is the top black bar with the camera in the middle.

If this makes no sense to you, Sensor Bar is just an array of infrared LEDs that the camera in a Wii Remote tracks to be able to point on a screen. It is designed to only be turned on when necessary to avoid burning out the LEDs. There are no sensors in it, that's merely a misnomer.

Just to be clear, you STILL need a Wii Remote of some kind, because the process of modding vWii requires it.
Wait, now I'm curious, does the Wii sensor bar only turn on when you're doing something that can use the pointer? Like, if you play a game that entirely uses button controls then it turns off? Kinda like how the Wii Speak only turns on when you're doing something that uses it? It's obvious on the Wii Speak because of the easily noticeable blue light when it's on but not as obvious with the sensor bar because it has a few pink lights that are hardly visible without a camera.
 
Wait, now I'm curious, does the Wii sensor bar only turn on when you're doing something that can use the pointer? Like, if you play a game that entirely uses button controls then it turns off? Kinda like how the Wii Speak only turns on when you're doing something that uses it? It's obvious on the Wii Speak because of the easily noticeable blue light when it's on but not as obvious with the sensor bar because it has a few pink lights that are hardly visible without a camera.
I think so. What I'm certain about is that while the console is in standby, it doesn't power the sensor bar. Aside from the fact it's unnecessary to have it powered on at all times, it prolongs the longevity of the IR lights inside of it.

It especially makes sense on the Wii U as the GamePad is the primary controller type, and it has its own array of IR lights that can can be powered on anyway.
 
For cheats like joker codes (codes that require a button to enable it) you'll need AR to Wiird to convert them:
http://gcn.jaytheham.com/ARtoWiiRD_v0.9.zip

Also make sure they are decrypted, do it with this:
http://www.codemasters-project.net/portal-english/apportal/download.php?view.28

When you get an AR code you can leave the top decrypted code out because all it is is an identifier.

How do you know if it's encrypted or decrypted? Look at this example:

Encrypted AR Code
XXXX-XXXX-XXXXX
XXXX-XXXX-XXXXX

Decrypted Ar Code:
XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX

Most updated codes here:
http://gamehacking.org/vb/

Look in the upper left corner and you can search for whatever you may be looking for.

Gecko codes however, should work just fine without needing to be decrypted.

Codes that don't need to be decrypted start with:

00
02
04

Here is one of my codes as an example:

G3AE69
Lord of the Rings, The - The Third Age

Each Character's Attribute Points Go To 32767 When Leveling Up!
040B7288 38007FFF

This code works fine and needs no converting.
Eleven years later but... The conversion tool doesn't open anymore. I have a GameCube AR cheat I want to use on Nintendont. It doesn't exist in gecko code. Can anyone help please?
 
Eleven years later but... The conversion tool doesn't open anymore. I have a GameCube AR cheat I want to use on Nintendont. It doesn't exist in gecko code. Can anyone help please?
If no converter works for you, You can use dolphin on Android put your AR cheat in gecko cheat and the software will automatically convert it
 
I think so. What I'm certain about is that while the console is in standby, it doesn't power the sensor bar. Aside from the fact it's unnecessary to have it powered on at all times, it prolongs the longevity of the IR lights inside of it.

It especially makes sense on the Wii U as the GamePad is the primary controller type, and it has its own array of IR lights that can can be powered on anyway.
I just checked and it does in fact turn off if there's no Wiimotes connected (At least on Wii U)
(For those wondering what's on top of the sensor bar it's a Wii Speak)
 

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Do you guys know how could I run an oversized GameCube game in Nintendont ?
I modded a games recreate a proper disc image, it works on Dolphin, but it automatically shutdowns the Wii when I launch it from her. Can I deal with a file change in the source code or something ?
 
Having issues with Dualsense controller. Most frustrating part is that it almost works.

Injected a game with UWUVCI. Used a fresh SD card (no leftover files from previously using Teconmoon). Allowed UWUVCI to pull nintendont files and create a config.
Downloaded controller_ps5.ini from /nintendont/controllerconfigs on Github. Renamed to controller.ini and placed in the root of my SD.

Launch the game with the WiiMote, choose not to use Gamepad, choose TV Only.
Once I get to the initial game screen (choose progressive mode) and confirm it has launched, I plug my controller in on the front USB.

I get functionality from the face buttons, sticks and d-pad. R1 Tracks to Z.
This is where it gets odd:
L2 works for the left trigger as far as I can tell.
R2 works for the right trigger, can register the difference between a half press and a full press (FLUDD). But it ALSO registers as a Left Trigger. So any time I Hit R2 on my Dualsense (doesn't matter if it's a full or half press), the game thinks I'm pressing the L AND R Trigger simultaneously.

I tried plugging it into HIDTest on Wii U HBC so I could fix the config file myself but got no output.
Plugged it into my PC and ran HIDTest-0.2.jar but the output was a constant stream of info in the terminal that was too fast to read.

Any ideas?

There's a github issue and apparently changing DigitalLR to 1 instead of 2.
https://github.com/FIX94/Nintendont/issues/1155

I'm going to try that today but I'm guessing you'll lose the half press so games like Sunshine won't be playable.
Post automatically merged:

Ok I'm double posting but I've made a bit of progress so I though a second post would be ok.


Shoulder Buttons:
Pressing R2 does send an R Trigger command, and it can tell the difference between a full press and a half press. Issue is that for some reason it also sends an L trigger command which makes it useless.
I noticed that the inputs for L and R are both at "byte" 9 (counting starts at 0, so byte 9 is the 10th entry)
L=9,04
R=9,08


When compared to the DS4 config, they're at separate bytes.
L=8,F0
R=9,F0

So I figured that's why R2 does both - it sees the value increase by 04 and 08. Pressing L2 only increases it by 04, so that one works without interfering.

I deleted both lines just to see what would happen and tested a game. Now they didn’t interfere with each other anymore, but could ONLY register a half press. Obviously we want to be able to send a full press when needed.

I found this other page on github; most of it's gibberish to me, but he has a tool that runs from a Chromium browser:
https://nondebug.github.io/dualsense/dualsense-explorer.html

With that I could look at what the controller was outputting when a button was pressed. This could also be done with HIDTest, (downloadable from the HIDtoVPAD Network Client Github page). With HIDTest, it's very hard to read the output because the gyroscope and accelerometer are constantly sending tiny amounts of data and the corresponding bytes are changing so fast it gives you a headache to look at. With this online tool it was easier on my eyes to see what was happening.

I noticed from comparing the config.ini and the online tool that the half presses are registered at a different byte to the full presses:

LAnalog=5
RAnalog=6

I added the value of a full press at those addresses back in place of the lines I had deleted earlier.
L=5,F
F

R=6,FF

Checked with Mario Sunshine and I had proper half and full press of R2 as well as full press of L2.

In hindsight, I might have been able to figure that out by comparing with the DS4v2 ini, but I needed the tool's visual aid to get me there.

Face Buttons:
The Face buttons make sense if you're comparing to the Wii U Gamepad; A=Circle, B=X etc.
Gamecube has a wonky layout, but it's easy enough to swap those 4 around.

Old:
A=8,40 (Circle)
B=8,20 (X)
X=8,80 (Triangle)
Y=8,10 (Square)



New:

A=8,20 (X)
B=8,10 (Square)
X=8,40 (Circle)
Y=8,80 (Triangle)


Rumble
Rumble might be impossible, but I wanted to try.
PS2 has several entries in its config relating to Rumble: https://github.com/FIX94/Nintendont/blob/master/controllerconfigs/controller_ps2.ini
I was looking for what those entries meant, when I came across someone trying to do the same with the Stadia controller: https://github.com/FIX94/Nintendont/issues/1080

Going off of that, I went back to my browser with nondebug's tool open. I don't know what wizardry he has going on, but when you press a trigger the controller starts to vibrate. I checked the output panel and noticed that the first line went from:
02 FF F7 00 00
To
02 FF F7 FF FF

So I spat out the code:
Rumble=1
RumbleType=0
RumbleDataLen=05
RumbleDataOn=0x02,0xff,0xf7,0xff,0xff
RumbleDataOff=0x02,0xff,0xf7,0x00,0x00
RumbleTransferLen=05
RumbleTransfers=1

So far it's not working, I also tried RumbleType=1, but I'll have another go later.

I've attached my progress. I can't upload an ini so I changed the extension to txt, just change it back to test.
i'm having trouble with the rumble. can you see if there is another values for it?
 
I have got Nintendont working and I want to use cheats. I want to cheat on Pokemon XD gale of Darkness. Where can I download cheats for Pokemon XD gale of Darkness? I know it need to be geckocodes for it to work.
 
Any new developments on the "vWii" ipl issue? I borrowed a Wii U for a day and tried the following:
Changing PAL IPL video table (040250010602080028001B02800208000000000001000103020906030A03020906030A09020306090A09020306090A08080A0C0A0808) into the more common TVPal524IntAa - fail, same video output garbage.
So it's probably something before VIConfigure, take my words with a grain of salt as I know jack shit.
Change of plans -> region unlocking NTSC bios.
After one entire day spent at the computer with various degrees of success (like, games would autoboot but somehow no banner? Acceptable for many but not for me :P) I looked up online to see if people already "cracked" something - and yeah, they did (Many thanks to Extrems, emukidid & co.)
Anyway... After taking the patches from Swiss source code the games would now not only launch but also show banner. OK, let's try the IPL on my Wii (no longer had the Wii U) - it starts, it 100% should work on the Wii U (obviously compile Nintendont while deleting the "skip ipl if vwii" check...) since the only thing hex-edited was the protection. PAL games work (Baten Kaitos tested), they are at the correct speed (since the TV showed mode change from 480i60hz to 576i50hz after game launch) we are done...NOT! MGS switches to 60hz!
It's a 50hz only game, the hell?!
I read more GC documentation and set a breakpoint to 0x800000CC (video mode os global) and sure enough games do check it. OK let's do the dumbest thing possible: early on IPL uses register 31 to write to 0x800000CC, so let's intercept that. 547ff0be moves stuff inside r31, let's change it into 3be00000 (loads "0" into the register - which is NTSC mode, won't fix the issue but at least we will know if r31 value is used for other things and IPL crashes...) works on Wii with no issues... hmm, let's try 3be00001. runs OK on dolphin and now games set correct 50hz speed.
Let's try it on Wii - uh oh, VI is not liking this - output is in negative (????)
OK, I give up!
Maybe we need to set 0x800000CC after the menu boots (so after video modes are initialized) through a nintendont patch, but I don't care enough to run latest dkppc and manually check. I'll leave doing so to the experts.
---
Since iirc someone here asked, to encrypt / decrypt just use a XOR utility (I used XorCryptWin, if you want to use this program obviously remember to use "decrypt" mode to encrypt too... Since it's xor...
 
Last edited by Fabax01,
Hello
I just moved over from HaxChi to Aroma and my GC Injects no longer boots. I found out (or rather, the system blatantly pointed out) that I need the loader.dol file. Question is: Should I just go ahead with a completely fresh install or should I re-use the files I already have?

I still have all the necessary files for Nintendont on the SD Card. I've just moved everything from the old hack to a folder I named "Old", so guessing that's why the system is bitching about missing files.
 
Hello
I just moved over from HaxChi to Aroma and my GC Injects no longer boots. I found out (or rather, the system blatantly pointed out) that I need the loader.dol file. Question is: Should I just go ahead with a completely fresh install or should I re-use the files I already have?

I still have all the necessary files for Nintendont on the SD Card. I've just moved everything from the old hack to a folder I named "Old", so guessing that's why the system is bitching about missing files.
obviosuly you need nintendont files on the correct folder order in the sd card...
 
obviosuly you need nintendont files on the correct folder order in the sd card...
Obviously I do, so why are you stating it? I know what the problem is, I wasn't asking if I need the files ffs, I was asking If I should re-use my previous install or go ahead with a new install since I am using a new CFW. Basically, would I run into issues using the old setup on a new CFW, or would a fresh install give me issues with previously installed titles. Or does it not matter at all.

Don't try to be a smartass when you didn't understand my question.
 
Obviously I do, so why are you stating it? I know what the problem is, I wasn't asking if I need the files ffs, I was asking If I should re-use my previous install or go ahead with a new install since I am using a new CFW. Basically, would I run into issues using the old setup on a new CFW, or would a fresh install give me issues with previously installed titles. Or does it not matter at all.

Don't try to be a smartass when you didn't understand my question.
what does a wiiu cfw has to do with the order of nintendont files on the sd card? doesnt matter what cfw you run , nintendont doesnt care what your cfw is, the order is the exact same and the files too.

Also im one of the nintendont testers/devs since day one it was an open source project...
 
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what does a wiiu cfw has to do with the order of nintendont files on the sd card? doesnt matter what cfw you run , nintendont doesnt care what your cfw is, the order is the exact same and the files too.

Also im one of the nintendont testers/devs since day one it was an open source project...
Compatibility issues for crying out loud, just like you can't run Homebrew designed for HaxCHi on Aroma, without using the Aroma version of the app. I just wanted to ask to be sure, because better safe than sorry.

"Also im one of the nintendont testers/devs since day one it was an open source project..." good for you, I don't care. And I was also not asking about the order of the files either, so are you done yet? Because you are not helping at all.

Guess I'll just have try a fresh install and see.
 
Compatibility issues for crying out loud, just like you can't run Homebrew designed for HaxCHi on Aroma, without using the Aroma version of the app. I just wanted to ask to be sure, because better safe than sorry.

"Also im one of the nintendont testers/devs since day one it was an open source project..." good for you, I don't care. And I was also not asking about the order of the files either, so are you done yet? Because you are not helping at all.

Guess I'll just have try a fresh install and see.
I gave you the answer already... there are no nintendont special files... they either work or they dont, there is no special or modded files for any firmware.
 
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Any new developments on the "vWii" ipl issue? I borrowed a Wii U for a day and tried the following:
Changing PAL IPL video table (040250010602080028001B02800208000000000001000103020906030A03020906030A09020306090A09020306090A08080A0C0A0808) into the more common TVPal524IntAa - fail, same video output garbage.
So it's probably something before VIConfigure, take my words with a grain of salt as I know jack shit.
Change of plans -> region unlocking NTSC bios.
After one entire day spent at the computer with various degrees of success (like, games would autoboot but somehow no banner? Acceptable for many but not for me :P) I looked up online to see if people already "cracked" something - and yeah, they did (Many thanks to Extrems, emukidid & co.)
Anyway... After taking the patches from Swiss source code the games would now not only launch but also show banner. OK, let's try the IPL on my Wii (no longer had the Wii U) - it starts, it 100% should work on the Wii U (obviously compile Nintendont while deleting the "skip ipl if vwii" check...) since the only thing hex-edited was the protection. PAL games work (Baten Kaitos tested), they are at the correct speed (since the TV showed mode change from 480i60hz to 576i50hz after game launch) we are done...NOT! MGS switches to 60hz!
It's a 50hz only game, the hell?!
I read more GC documentation and set a breakpoint to 0x800000CC (video mode os global) and sure enough games do check it. OK let's do the dumbest thing possible: early on IPL uses register 31 to write to 0x800000CC, so let's intercept that. 547ff0be moves stuff inside r31, let's change it into 3be00000 (loads "0" into the register - which is NTSC mode, won't fix the issue but at least we will know if r31 value is used for other things and IPL crashes...) works on Wii with no issues... hmm, let's try 3be00001. runs OK on dolphin and now games set correct 50hz speed.
Let's try it on Wii - uh oh, VI is not liking this - output is in negative (????)
OK, I give up!
Maybe we need to set 0x800000CC after the menu boots (so after video modes are initialized) through a nintendont patch, but I don't care enough to run latest dkppc and manually check. I'll leave doing so to the experts.
---
Since iirc someone here asked, to encrypt / decrypt just use a XOR utility (I used XorCryptWin, if you want to use this program obviously remember to use "decrypt" mode to encrypt too... Since it's xor...
I'm not an expert at all but you've done so much more than me. I tried to solve the problem using chatgpt to tell me GameCube video particularity and stuff that I don't know. I tried to set the video mode of the ntsc ipl in the pal ipl. No results still the green video glitch, then I tried to region free the ntsc ipl in order to at least launch pal games after using the memory card manager. No success neither games are "?". Have you succeed to set the video mode of the pal ipl to 480p60hz ? (Or 480i60hz). If so could you send it to me for I test it on my Wii U ? I know that on regular Wii the Pal ipl begin at 576i which doesn't exist in NTSC. But pal also have 480i 60hz (at least in games when it ask you if you prefer 50 or 60hz it pass from 576i to 480i but I don't think I've ever seen 480i 50hz.) So if the ipl could support 480i 60hz, the Wii U I Hope my handle it.
Post automatically merged:

What's we need for the GC controlers for wii without GC port and wii u?
 

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I'm not an expert at all but you've done so much more than me. I tried to solve the problem using chatgpt to tell me GameCube video particularity and stuff that I don't know. I tried to set the video mode of the ntsc ipl in the pal ipl. No results still the green video glitch, then I tried to region free the ntsc ipl in order to at least launch pal games after using the memory card manager. No success neither games are "?". Have you succeed to set the video mode of the pal ipl to 480p60hz ? (Or 480i60hz). If so could you send it to me for I test it on my Wii U ? I know that on regular Wii the Pal ipl begin at 576i which doesn't exist in NTSC. But pal also have 480i 60hz (at least in games when it ask you if you prefer 50 or 60hz it pass from 576i to 480i but I don't think I've ever seen 480i 50hz.) So if the ipl could support 480i 60hz, the Wii U I Hope my handle it.
Post automatically merged:
Look, I'm sorry, but chatgpt is useless. I'll be direct - If someone needs to use ai at all it's probably because the task at hand is too complex for them - study real, human made materials until you have a better understanding of the situation.
Now to answer your questions..
Re:480i PAL BIOS
yes, I did, just for shit and giggles.
In fact, it was truly the first thing I tried - swapping video tables between the NTSC and PAL ipl; didn't write anything about it since it's a pretty stupid idea...
You get 120% speed in GC menu (ex. desynced cube animation), as it's speed optimized for 50hz.
Also, while on Wii it will run at 480i@60hz, on Wii U it will still display as garbage.
You can't just change the video table, it's not there where the issue lies.
If this would've been the fix, it would've been the easiest fix ever and I'm pretty sure smart people like FIX94 & co. would've already implemented it on Nintendont side...
Re:Region unlock NTSC BIOS
Obviously I can't send you a pre-patched NTSC bios since it's copyrighted...
And I will not send a patch file since 1) you gotta xor the bios again before it runs on hw 2) as I said before, even if the region unlocked bios will technically run games, it's going to do so badly. In the worst case, games will not BOOT AT ALL. Freeze before 50/60hz selector. Like Kirby Air Ride, because they check 0x800000CC!
Now you may ask "but my GC chip works with pal games + ntsc console" - yeah, that's because they do change the bit there. They already have to change stuff (BI2.bin) to make the game appear since the ipl is not region free, so while they're at it they inject code in the apploader (iirc) to write correct value at 0x800000CC.
That was my understanding from (QOOB?) source.
So unless a smart person comes in and does ASM hacking on the IPL to set the value there to pal AFTER the menu boots (so video output doesn't get fucked) or someone else edits nintendont source code to do the same, there's nothing more for us to do. 3) It's pretty clear what you need to do for a region unlock - just check Swiss source.
It's even commented....
 
Look, I'm sorry, but chatgpt is useless. I'll be direct - If someone needs to use ai at all it's probably because the task at hand is too complex for them - study real, human made materials until you have a better understanding of the situation.
Now to answer your questions..
Re:480i PAL BIOS
yes, I did, just for shit and giggles.
In fact, it was truly the first thing I tried - swapping video tables between the NTSC and PAL ipl; didn't write anything about it since it's a pretty stupid idea...
You get 120% speed in GC menu (ex. desynced cube animation), as it's speed optimized for 50hz.
Also, while on Wii it will run at 480i@60hz, on Wii U it will still display as garbage.
You can't just change the video table, it's not there where the issue lies.
If this would've been the fix, it would've been the easiest fix ever and I'm pretty sure smart people like FIX94 & co. would've already implemented it on Nintendont side...
Re:Region unlock NTSC BIOS
Obviously I can't send you a pre-patched NTSC bios since it's copyrighted...
And I will not send a patch file since 1) you gotta xor the bios again before it runs on hw 2) as I said before, even if the region unlocked bios will technically run games, it's going to do so badly. In the worst case, games will not BOOT AT ALL. Freeze before 50/60hz selector. Like Kirby Air Ride, because they check 0x800000CC!
Now you may ask "but my GC chip works with pal games + ntsc console" - yeah, that's because they do change the bit there. They already have to change stuff (BI2.bin) to make the game appear since the ipl is not region free, so while they're at it they inject code in the apploader (iirc) to write correct value at 0x800000CC.
That was my understanding from (QOOB?) source.
So unless a smart person comes in and does ASM hacking on the IPL to set the value there to pal AFTER the menu boots (so video output doesn't get fucked) or someone else edits nintendont source code to do the same, there's nothing more for us to do. 3) It's pretty clear what you need to do for a region unlock - just check Swiss source.
It's even commented....
Well I get what you said, I only tried chatgpt after someone else use it to make the GC USB adapter brainslug module work on USB loader.
I said myself "wow it can codes ? Ok let's try to ask him if he know something about the ipl that I have no answer for 5 years" but that's all, I was doing it with defeatist attitude already. Thanks for the further explanation.
 

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