So after testing out a couple different configurations, card readers and various pins this has been the pinout that works (not just for me anymore! )
There may be other motherboards as time goes on that look different, so please check before you do anything. Also this is for educational purposes only and you do so at your own risk. It's taken me a couple hours to get it down but I hope it works for you as well to keep your SysNAND backed up manually or you need to restore an image because it somehow got accidentally updated .
This is for the N3DS XL, just a note but the mobo has the lettering RED-CPU-01. View attachment 17927
This is an alternate location on the other side of the board for CLK, it's a test point so it's a large pad to solder to and easier to access.
A ground point that's easy enough to access on the reverse side. There are a lot of them as the board uses a ground pour so you can easily hunt around for one. View attachment 15698
Do not use this area (the RED selected area) for a GND point because of the object in blue. View attachment 18624
You can't use the ground near the power connector or on it unfortunately
If you check around it, it actually goes though an inductor, or transformer, but I am voting it's being used an inductor, before getting to the ground plane. That adds a little resistance to it and I don't think the inductor is charging since there is no power at the connector.
Inductors start off as a open circuit until their magnetic fields are charged and stabilized which then it acts as a short. The reason for the inductor is to help handle changes in current, since the wall supply is a switching supply the inductor here helps stabilize the switching noise from the charger.
P.S. if you have a good multimeter you can check the resistance of the inductor from other points on the GND plane and there should be a bit of difference.
This is for the N3DS (nonXL), just a note but the mobo has the lettering KTR-CPU-01. View attachment 18124
This is an alternate test point on the other side of the board for CLK for the N3DS. View attachment 18125
If you are on Windows here is a small guide for backing up the system eMMC using Win32DiskImager.
Using the TekRepublic TUC-300 Reader I was still hitting around 6MB/s with just one DAT line and 21MB/s using all the DAT lines. Please let me know of any error or problems in any of my diagrams, this was fun to figure out. I'll keep you updated
Alright so I've tested it fully (backups and writes) with many systems now of, both of my own and other members here, I can safely say this works well with both the Samsung and Toshiba eMMC.
I updated to 9.5 and then restored my backup of 9.0. I posted a couple images on Page 3 post #60.
Please note the N3DS eMMC does not work in every card reader, it can be hit or miss and this list is not exact but these are known to work with the 3DS and N3DS.
Card reader chipsets known not to work on N3DS with the Samsung eMMC, but may still work on one with the Toshiba and the 3DS/XL eMMC:
GL3220
GL3233
GL834
If anyone has any other card readers they have used with success on both the N3DS Toshiba and Samsung eMMC please let me know so I can add them to the list. Thank you!
A little bit more about the card readers I have tested and what works and what doesn't!
Okay so here are the card reader controller, makes well enough sense why the Tek-Republic and Anker ones work as they use basically Identical controllers. I wonder what my old Transend TS-RDP5K used to use. Can't find much about the Realtek controllers unfortunately but there are a couple other ones out there that use it from what I have seen. I will be updating as I get / test more that I have access to, also will be adding info from USBDeview v2.41 about each card reader.
Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) : Realtek RTS5306 : Works as decently as the Tek one does, no issues at all on reading or writing
TekRepublic TUC-300 :Realtek RTS5307 : Works well for me on the 3DS/XL and N3DSXL, my go to reader.
SanDisk SDDR-121-A11M : GL827 Datasheet : I've played around with this did some reads and writes to the 3DS/XL and N3DSXL works but it's a microSD reader, hard to use without an adapter or soldering directly to it.
So that's the card readers I have and the information I have on them currently. Feel free to chime in with what works for you and what doesn't. As the N3DS eMMC seems to be pickier but not all controllers are made equally and who knows how the firmware on them is. I will add more about them and info
Side Note: Not exactly sure but SIIG, StarTek, and Plugable all make card readers that look just like the TekRepublic one.
Size info for the eMMC's
Samsung 1.21 GB (1,300,234,240 bytes)
Toshiba = 1.84 GB (1,979,711,488 bytes)
A possible way to check if your eMMC image was any good is to look at it with a Hex Editor, I am sure there are better methods though, but this has worked for me. Also as others have said, booting the dump in emuNAND is a good way to check its validity.
This is the old Image incase someone finds it any easier to see View attachment 15783
So I know I posted this in a different thread but I decided I would make a new thread for any input and keeping a record about anything I or someone else figures out.
I've tested the 12 pins around the eMMC both front and back also, the US black N3DS XL I have doesn't use a Samsung eMMC. If anyone knows something about eMMC logic that would be great please get in touch with me.
So I'm pretty sure I've found the DAT 0/1/2/3, as they were pretty obvious just don't know which is which and a couple lines that are definitely clocks. There is a small spike in one of the lines during the clock start up and I wonder if it's the CMD but again i don't have much knowledge on eMMC logic.
I am thinking I am going to utilize my old 3DS and look at that data to give me an idea what each line should look like on system boot up.
It's not very hard to get the N3DS XL into everyone's favorite blue screen of error, hehe.
Also some pretty pictures
PS. - Please ignore the Data part on the top I was playing around with protocol analyzers. Also sorry about the tiny letter and messed up order in the logic analyzer windows.
I tried to dump the NAND from my new 3DS XL but it's failed. My 3DS XL is blue screen now. I didn't format the NAND even I couldn't see the letter of NAND in my computer. I am thinking is it any possible to write the data to NAND during the driver installation? May I avoid the problem if I switch the SD card to "lock"?
I tried to dump the NAND from my new 3DS XL but it's failed. My 3DS XL is blue screen now. I didn't format the NAND even I couldn't see the letter of NAND in my computer. I am thinking is it any possible to write the data to NAND during the driver installation? May I avoid the problem if I switch the SD card to "lock"?
Just like I said, I even didn't see "new driver message". My PC only installed the driver of card reader, that is. I removed the wires from motherboard, put motherboard back and hit the power button and then the bottom screen turned blue and displayed:
Just like I said, I even didn't see "new driver message". My PC only installed the driver of card reader, that is. I removed the wires from motherboard, put motherboard back and hit the power button and then the bottom screen turned blue and displayed:
You got some wire with a bad conexion, and maybe with the movement it gets out the pad. That error happends when you put some of the data0-cmd or clk pin to GND or you put inside a eletronic noise enougth to make the original signal unreadeable for the n3ds/3ds system.
Sorry for the delay i was a few busy, now i am free so make me the questions you need.
You got some wire with a bad conexion, and maybe with the movement it gets out the pad. That error happends when you put some of the data0-cmd or clk pin to GND or you put inside a eletronic noise enougth to make the original signal unreadeable for the n3ds/3ds system.
Sorry for the delay i was a few busy, now i am free so make me the questions you need.
My question is if I "lock" the SD card, can I avoid the problem? I mean the NADN won't be writen the data if I lock the SD card,right? I only want to backup me NAND and try to downgrade the firmware. Thanks.
My question is if I "lock" the SD card, can I avoid the problem? I mean the NADN won't be writen the data if I lock the SD card,right? I only want to backup me NAND and try to downgrade the firmware. Thanks.
Yes, if you do that the computer will cannot acces to your SD. But i dont know if the win32diskimager can read the Nand data with the sd on the lock position. Just try it, dont worry on lock position the worst problem will be just a "no permision to access" message on windows promt.
Anybody know a good guide on how to properly solder for somebody who hasn't before? Never used a soldering iron before, so I want to at least make sure I don't melt my 3DS (or, you know, burn myself).
My n3DS is being NAND modded ATM, and I have just ordered the Plugable USB3-FLASH3. I'll report back on whether it worked once I get it and my 3DS back.
Anybody know a good guide on how to properly solder for somebody who hasn't before? Never used a soldering iron before, so I want to at least make sure I don't melt my 3DS (or, you know, burn myself).
i'd suggest getting one of the SMD practice kits on ebay/amazon before even thinking about soldering on your 3DS, unless you've got an unlimited supply of cash and don't mind replacing the 3DS when it gets messed up.
or simply reach out to one of the few guys that offers modding services here for a reasonable fee and get it done... a much safer option than trying it yourself.
i'd suggest getting one of the SMD practice kits on ebay/amazon before even thinking about soldering on your 3DS, unless you've got an unlimited supply of cash and don't mind replacing the 3DS when it gets messed up.
or simply reach out to one of the few guys that offers modding services here for a reasonable fee and get it done... a much safer option than trying it yourself.
I like learning how to do things, so I honestly tweak, code, and break stuff more than I actually game with the N3DS. I'm OK with taking the risk after some prep.
I like learning how to do things, so I honestly tweak, code, and break stuff more than I actually game with the N3DS. I'm OK with taking the risk after some prep.
I have the NAND backup from when I downgraded my N3DS, so I think for now I'll practice soldering on other projects and then I will perform the hardmod if I need to restore.
I have the NAND backup from when I downgraded my N3DS, so I think for now I'll practice soldering on other projects and then I will perform the hardmod if I need to restore.
My home button started failing on my N3ds so I sent it to nintendo to get it fix today. When 10.4 update comes out this month, I think they'll update before shipping it back. Before shipping it to nintendo for repairs, I used gateway and made 9.2 firmware Nand.bin backup and also updated to 10.3 and get rid of browserhax. After I receive my n3ds, how would I go about modding in order to downgrade from 10.4 back to 9.2 (if I'm not lucky)? What are the steps?
I don't need the hardmod, the point was that I am not very familiar with soldering so I was going to wait until I mess up and then install the hardmod. That way I can make sure I am familiar with how to cleanly install the soldering joints required when I do it.
I don't need the hardmod, the point was that I am not very familiar with soldering so I was going to wait until I mess up and then install the hardmod. That way I can make sure I am familiar with how to cleanly install the soldering joints required when I do it.
Ok I did the hardmod with 1 dat wire only. The hardmod doesn't work, the blue screen doesn't show up... I have a multimeter, can I use it to check if the mod is fine or if I have to resolder?
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